Milkshakes and Gaskets...

[Dewyz1100]

While driving to work last Wednesday I noticed a bit of steam coming from under the hood - looked down and my temp gauge was spiked...

Pulled over and shut 'er down only to find a "chocolate milkshake" spewing all over the ground...

Had my 4Runner towed to a local repair shop, and was told that not only did my radiator give out (mixing the tranny fluid and coolant), but the over heating caused part of my head gasket to blow... My 1998 V6 has around 168k on it...

So, right around six months after I sink a couple grand into the rear end - it looks like at least another grand in parts will go into the motor and cooling system...

Let me know if I am missing anything on my list:

1 Radiator Koyo A1998
1 Head Gasket Kit Fel-Pro HS9227PT1
1 Head Bolt Set Fel-Pro ES72168
1 Timing Belt Toyota 13568-69095
1 Idler Roller NSK OE 13503-62040
1 Tensioner Roller Koyo OE 13505-62070
1 Front Crankshaft Seal Toyota 90311-40022
2 Front Camshaft Seals Toyota 90311-38051
1 Water Pump Aisin OE 16100-69398-83
1 Water Pump Gasket Aisin 16271-62011
1 Hydraulic Tensioner Toyota 13540-62021
1 Thermostat (82°c) Toyota 90916-03075
1 Thermostat Gasket Aisin 16325-62010

-New Engine Oil and Filter
-New Transmission Filter w/Gasket and enough fluid to flush clean...
-New Coolant (enough to flush clean)

Extras (some needed, some for the hell of it):
-Toyota TRD External Transmission Cooler Kit (so this never happens again)
-B&M Transmission Temperature Gauge Kit (so I can keep an eye on things)
-Radiator Main Hoses (Peace of mind moving forward)
-Front Sway Bar End Links (Because the old ones are damn near seized and rusty as hell)
-Front Sway bar Bushings (Because the old ones are dry rotted to hell)


Can anyone give me a list of things to either "have done" or "have checked out" while the motor is tore apart for the head gasket replacement?

I have saw other posts that say to have valves checked, and heads machined...Any thoughts and/or recommendations?

Figure if I have to do all this, I might as well make sure the old T4R will last at least another 168k... At this point I may as well :toilet3: or get off the pot...

Thanks!

 

[bandman659]

Usually, the strawberry milkshake affects the transmission worse than the engine. I haven't read about anyone being able to make a transmission last more than 10k post milkshake.

 

[4-Ripcord]

Usually, the strawberry milkshake affects the transmission worse than the engine. I haven't read about anyone being able to make a transmission last more than 10k post milkshake.

It can be fine, it all depends on how quick he was to shut it down and how bad the mixture F'd things up.

 

[bitchaaz]

I agree with Rip, but im going to have to go with bandman on this one. OP has stated that he saw the smoke and then he saw the needle "pegged". Pegged needle is not good.
He has already committed to keeping the truck after a couple thousand he put in 6 months ago, so I would vote, add a tranny to the list also. (and I don't mean a ladyboy)

 

[4-Ripcord]

this is true

 

[LittleCaesar]

New crank bolt. Part #90105-16031, or Toy may have gone to just using the 99-02 crank bolt, which is #90119-16006, as a replacement.

New radiator cap and new drive belts as well.

I'd go with the B&M 70264 or 70268 over the TRD tranny cooler, which IMHO, the latter is overpriced.

+1 with another transmission. Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

 

[PitbullRescuer]

There are also two recessed head bolts, smaller than the other 16, that don't come with the head boot kit. (ask me how I know). I had to buy these two bolts (1 for each head) separately from Toyota.

While it's apart, it's a good idea to just throw a rebuild at the heads too. Get them machined and get a valve job. Little bit more money but well worth it IMO.

 

[Dewyz1100]

There are also two recessed head bolts, smaller than the other 16, that don't come with the head boot kit. (ask me how I know). I had to buy these two bolts (1 for each head) separately from Toyota.

While it's apart, it's a good idea to just throw a rebuild at the heads too. Get them machined and get a valve job. Little bit more money but well worth it IMO.

Any idea of what the part number is for those recessed head bolts?

I know my mechanic is a transmission guy, so I know he will go through it and give me an honest assessment, and likely rebuild it for me if it needs to be taken to that extent...

I am a pretty avid gauge watcher, and in in this instance I could not have driven more than a couple miles (highway - cruise control set) between seeing everything fine and the first notice of steam and the temp gauge on "H". I immediately pulled over and shut down.

I know that when this failure happens things get hot real quick, but the truck was running fine even with the fluids boiling out of the thing...I must have caught it pretty quick, and hopefully that did something in my favor...

My cousin has been a Toyota dealership mechanic for years, and has dealt with many of these issues... He seems to think that as long as the transmission is flushed completely, and after driving a bit - flushed again, and continue to be flushed until all traces of milky-ness is gone, that there should be no permanent damage done since I caught it quick enough.

I did notice that when I checked the tranny dipstick that it was not milky colored fluid...is it possible that the burst radiator allowed the tainted fluid to simply exit the system and not make it back into the tranny? (Perhaps wishful thinking here)

There was never any "smoke"...just some steam from the mixture spraying all over the engine and exhaust manifold on the driver's side...

I forgot to put new drive belts on my list - I have had these for awhile as spares, but have yet to put them on... Good idea on the radiator cap as well...

What is the significance of replacing the 'crank bolt'?

Thanks everyone for your insight...

 

[Dewyz1100]

Lovely...

 

[Millerad1651]

maybe I missed it, but the valve cover gaskets as well. Although that will be common sense once the rebuilding started.

 

[LittleCaesar]

#90910-02077 for the head bolts and #90201-11028 for the plate the bolt passes through (the latter is a $1.21 each piece).

Maybe PBR has a number for those other two bolts.

The crank bolt is not a torque to yield bolt but operates under a great amount of torque. For $10, why not.

 

[Dewyz1100]

Thanks everyone... Most everything has come in... I opted for the TRD cooler, going to bypass the radiator all together... I also got a B&M tranny temp sensor/gauge kit to keep an eye on things... I will upload part numbers for those recessed head bolts when they come in... That first number for the crank bolt was accurate...Thanks!

The heads should be getting checked and machined early this upcoming week, and the valve job should soon follow...

I know within the next couple years I will need to get some exhaust work done... Anyone know of some high performance manifolds or headers for these V6 motors? Been dying to get my Aero Turbine mufflers put on this T4R...