Mind-boggling overheating issue

94_4runner757

New member
I've got a mind-boggling overheating issue that I really need some help on. I'm new to the group but any help would be appreciated.

About a month ago I got home from school and my dad told me he was going to have pick and pull come and take his 92 firebird away and they would pay him $150. It wasnt anything special and had a lot of minor repairs that needed to be made. I told him I'll give him $150 and still have it gone by the weekend. Posted it on craigslist and long story short I ended up trading it for a 94 4runner v6 4x4 with an overheating issue. The owner had another 3vze swapped in around this time last year and it had 50k miles on it when it was put in (the body has 190k). This was done because it blew a HG like almost all 3vze's do.

Started with all the normal repairs- flushing, burping, new radiator cap, thermostat, etc. None of that fixed it, which I wasn't all that surprised. If it is idling with the heater on, it'll run for hours right at standard operating temp (a little below half way). If the heater is off it'll overheat before that. It blows really hot air, doesn't take long to get hot, and it produces a lot of heat so it's not the heater core. If you drive it with the heater on, it'll still overheat but it takes a while and it wont get to red. If I drive it without the heater, within a mile it'll overheat and be on the red. If you rev it, the temp drops.

Pressure tested it and it hold air fine. Drove around with it on and when it was overheating, it was at 18 PSI. Little high but after testing for combustion gases and having a negative, wasn't too worried. I also ran it without a thermostat -before putting in the Toyota one- for a little to see if it still overheats and yes, it did.

(After numerous prestone flush cleaners, I ended up with a hole in one of my core plugs (freeze plugs, whatever you call it). Replaced the 3 on the driver side and I was good. Did notice a large amount of what I believe is rust (looked like dirt), behind all the plugs. Scooped out what I could and continued on.

I've checked the oil cap and there's no white "snot" under it, no white smoke from the exhaust, and when I tested for combustion gases in the coolant- there isn't any (block tester- fluid stayed blue all 3 tests). Due to these findings I have pretty much ruled out a HG.

Due to my findings, I decided to replace the radiator. There was a ton of rust/ gunk in the radiator and no amount of cleaners could get it clean (tried prestone, thermocure rust treatment, and white vinegar). The owner told me that when he swapped the engine he put a new water pump, timing chain, tensioner, and pulleys on. He then told me got the kit with all the previously mentioned parts for $75 from an Asian company online..... Decided while I had the radiator off I might as well suck it up and replace the water pump because any kit with all of those parts for that cheap- the quality is going to be shit. I got a kit off amazon (https://www.amazon.com/…/B00…/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00…) because I know and trust the brands who make the products. I also got a new toyota tstat and gasket while I was at it.

Even after putting in the new Aisin (Toyota supplier) water pump, toyota Tstat, new radiator (spectra premium), flushing and burping, it still overheats. Fan clutch appears to be fine after a few tests and the shroud is on.

For the life of me, I cannot figure it out. I have fixed numerous overheating issues over the years and I have never been this confused. Like I said earlier, any help is greatly appreciated. I may have missed something in typing this up because I've done just about everything I can think of.

My only other guess at this point is a clog somewhere in the water jacket of the block. When I changed the plugs and saw all the "dirt" gunk, I'm guessing the previous owner may have used some stop-leak and it clogged up the block. If you have any other ideas or ways to test other options, please LMK! Thanks in advance
 
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a$$h0le. no reason whatsoever to dredge up 15 old threads. one or two would have been sufficient to perhaps get help with your problem.
 
a$$h0le. no reason whatsoever to dredge up 15 old threads. one or two would have been sufficient to perhaps get help with your problem.
Like I stated, I'm new to the group and had to get the minimum replies needed to post a new thread. Gotta do what ya gotta do. It's not like they were random, either. Just curious if they had any luck since we have similar problems.
 
Stop throwing money at it. Invest in a $25 Infrared Thermometer heat gun. A FLir would be better and quite a bit more expensive. Is the radiator evenly warming up? Is the Lower radiator hose collapsed? Upper radiator hose getting warm/hot? Thermostat opening/closing?


Test, verify, start simple.
 
do you hear the fan cycle on? it should sound like a jet engine when you first start it. it should also start to sound that way whenever it starts to get warm. its a very obvious sound. if its not doing it, the clutch is bad, and will cause it to overheat.

the fact that the tiny heater core and blower motor is enough to make a difference makes it sound like the clutch is not working.
 
traded a $150 car for another $150 truck...the replacement engine only had a 50k on it...doubt it.

sounds like the heater core is still blocked even after your flushes..bypass the heater core and see what happens
 
I am pretty sure the heater core is not the problem. Like 94_4runner757 said, the heat blows really hot.

The engine should not overheat, even with a blocked heater core.

:fro:
 
traded a $150 car for another $150 truck...the replacement engine only had a 50k on it...doubt it.

sounds like the heater core is still blocked even after your flushes..bypass the heater core and see what happens

the heater core being blocked cannot cause an engine to overheat. in fact, most vehicles have a heater control valve, when you switch the temp selector to cold it CLOSES a valve going to the heater core. essentially blocking it. the circuit is NOT required for proper engine cooling.


besides that, he said running the heater extends the time before overheating, thus it IS pulling out some excess heat, meaning its flowing just fine.
 
that makes sense,,,that's what i get for trying to respond too fast on a quick break at work..:frusty:
 
that makes sense,,,that's what i get for trying to respond too fast on a quick break at work..:frusty:

haha. oh, I know that all too well. guilty of it myself.

I mean, ive never been wrong. I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken... :D
 
I'm speaking a bit outside my experience here, as I haven't had the head off this engine, but I think I recall seeing a thread about something similar due to the head gasket being being put in wrong (side switched or backward) and blocking some of the coolant channels. I wasn't able to find the thread with a quick search, but might be worth some googling.
 
haha. oh, I know that all too well. guilty of it myself.

I mean, ive never been wrong. I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken... :D

i know the feeling
sorta relevant
 

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There is a very good chance someone used stop leak in it. It will clog up the cooling ports in the heads. Only thing that makes any sense is flow is being restricted somewhere. How do you know for sure that it is overheating? Stock gauge? May want to get an IR gun as was previously suggested. Does the engine smell hot?


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I had a long night and not fully awake so please excuse any typos.
From what I have read from your post I would put my money on the fact of you having a plugged water jacket. Either in the block or the head/heads. When you talk about rust etc.etc. then you talk about blockage.
I really doubt if flushing will solve your problem because when chunks of rust break free then they lodge in the pathways. Without pulling motor apart I guess you could try filling it up with some kind of "rust remover"? and let it sit for a week then switch between flushing it forward then reverse.
Someone mentioned a H.G. on backwards? Very possible if you have had any heads removed lately?
Anyway,i saw your post and just had to put my two cents in. I live very,very close to the heart of Death Valley Calif. and I have had to deal with heat problems since I owned my first dune buggy. Good luck my friend
 
Please excuse my last post. Like I said I was not fully awake. After I posted my reply I reread your first post and it looks like you have already came to the same conclusion that I had. Sorry, I dont mean to waste your time.
Sounds like you have tried everthing I have suggested except flushing it backwards and forwards ?
Other than your timing chain being off a tooth I have no new ideas for you I guess. Keep me informed please? I still would put my money on a plugged block or head though and a reverse flush just might help you. Good luck
 

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