Mobil 1 Oil

[AlexJet]

I was looking for oil for 4Runner. I found interesting information about Mobil 1 Oils.

1. Mobil 1 has 4 different types of synthetic oils:
- Regular Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil
- Mobil 1 Clean 5000 (5,000 miles or six months, whichever comes first)
- Mobil 1 Clean 7500 (7,500 miles or six months, whichever comes first)
- Mobil 1 Extended Performance (15,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first)

2. Viscosity range:
- 10W-30 Higher-mileage vehicle formula
- 5W-30 Newer vehicle formula
- 0W-30 Enhanced fuel economy formula
- 0W-40 European car formula
- 15W-50 Performance driving formula

I was thinking of getting Mobil 1 Clean 7500 or Mobil 1 Extended Performance Synthetic Oil with viscosity 0W-30 for longer service intervals and better fuel economy. Toyota manual recommend 5W-30, but I think 0W-30 should also work fine with my engine.

What do you think? Have anyone used other then 5W30 viscosity? Does someone know what type of Mobil 1 Oil is better? I usually have 10,000 miles service intervals.

 

[Boaz]

FYI the Clean 5000 and 7500 are synthetic blends. There is no guarantee or percentage of actual syn oil in there.

You cant go wrong with the EP M1, however it hits you in the wallet.

I would highly recommend the 0W30 Viscosity.. The best start up protection.

 

[RonMAIDEN]

I would just stick with 5w30 and I use Regular Mobile 1 syn and change no later than 8000 but mostly it's by the 7500 mark and I run a Puralator PureOne filter which is the same combo I ran in my heavily modded/drag raced '93 Eclipse and it kept the oil clean for 8 race seasons.

 

[Boaz]

Also from my reasearch, anything over 10k on anything by M1 except the EP is pushing it.

I voted for 7500 but Only on EP.

 

[AlexJet]

Also from my reasearch, anything over 10k on anything by M1 except the EP is pushing it.

I voted for 7500 but Only on EP.

As far as I know both Mobil 1 5000 and Mobil 1 7500 are synthetic oils.
So you recommend Mobil 1 Extended Protection Synthetic Oil with service every 7500 miles. What about viscosity? Which one are you using? Is it actually no difference between Toyota recommended 5W-30 and 0W-30? Is it true that 0W-30 will give you better fuel economy?

 

[Boaz]

Here is the VOA for M1 and EP in both 10W30 and 5W30

Oil Brand Mobil Mobil Mobil Mobil
Oil Blend M1 M1 M1 EP M1EP

Visc Label 5W30 10W30 5W30 10W30
Kine Visc 11.3 10.7 10.6 10.5
Ag 0 0 0 0
Al 2 2 2 2
B 76 95 251 290
Ba 0 0 0 0
Ca 2380 2514 2822 3108
Cr 0 0 0 0
Cu 0 0 0 0
Fe 1 1 1 1
K 0 1 1 1
Mg 13 13 15 16
Mn 0 0 0 0
Mo 92 92 83 83
Na 6 9 6 11
Ni 0 0 0 0
P 678 750 948 881
Pb 0 0 0 0
Si 2 3 1 3
Sn 0 0 0 0
Ti 0 0 0 0
Zn 775 858 1058 1002
ISO Code 18/19 19/13 18/12 18/13
PQ 11 25 17 13
PVi 0 1 0 1

 

[Boaz]

As far as I know both Mobil 1 5000 and Mobil 1 7500 are synthetic oils.
So you recommend Mobil 1 Extended Protection Synthetic Oil with service every 7500 miles. What about viscosity? Which one are you using? Is it actually no difference between Toyota recommended 5W-30 and 0W-30? Is it true that 0W-30 will give you better fuel economy?

It says Syn blend right on the bottle of 5000 or 7500... they use group 3 base stock.. syn is group 4 or 5

0w-30 offers the best START up protection. However at operating temps it is the same viscosity range as all the other 30 "weight" oils.

IMHO its pointless to use syn blend. There could be 90%dino and 10% syn for all you know. Synthetic oil is regulated, it has to meet certin standards to be labeled "Synthetic". SYn blends are not regulated, it could have 1 drop of syn oil in it and be called a blend.

IF you dont want to spend the bucks for syn just use the M1 5000 and change it at 5k intervals with a OEM filter and call it a day.

The 4 runner will most likey run a long time no matter what 30 weight oil you put in it.

Better fuel mileage? YES>

M1 EP is fine oil, however IMHO the TSO 0w-30 Amsoil has a better additive pack, I am not just saying that because I sell it either.

:bouncy2:

 

[AlexJet]

It says Syn blend right on the bottle of 5000 or 7500... they use group 3 base stock.. syn is group 4 or 5

I didn

 

[Boaz]

I didn

 

[Boaz]

From M1's website

Is Mobil Clean 5000 a synthetic oil or a synthetic blend?
Mobil Clean 5000 is not a synthetic or synthetic blend. While it does offer high performance, the base stock composition is non-synthetic.

7500

What formulation differences exist between Mobil Clean 7500 and the synthetic blend, Mobil Drive Clean Plus, introduced in the spring of 2003?
While Mobil Clean 7500 is a new formula, there are similarities to Mobil Drive Clean Plus Synthetic Blend. Both formulas are a blend of premium conventional base fluids and a high-performance synthetic fluid. Also, both formulas offer an extra level of cleaning agents versus our conventional oil..

Regarding differences, Mobil Clean 7500 guarantees 7,500 miles between oil changes and is formulated to exceed the requirements of ILSAC GF-4 and API SM. Mobil Drive Clean Plus is an ILSAC GF-3/API SL formulation. Mobil Drive Clean Plus will no longer be offered.

 

[Boaz]

Here is a VOA of M1 Clean 5K

VOA M1 5000

 

[peter78]

Boaz that is interesting info. I am glad they still make synthetic oil, I still will stick with Mobil 1. I go 5,000 miles. I figure that is a bit of overkill, kind of like 3,000 miles on regualr oil.

I just changed the oil yesterday and I notice that Mobil 1 specs have chqanged ever so slightly in thier specs on the bottle, maybe 1 degree or so, but still they seemed to have changed in the last few motnhs. Also I noticed the oil looks a little darker when I poured it. Still Mobil 1 is what I will use. Also I like to go with the heavist oil that I can, so I stick with 5W30 instead of 0W30. I feel it is better protection.

 

[iFORCE]

7500Miles/12000KM.

No problems at all.

 

[Boaz]

Boaz that is interesting info. I am glad they still make synthetic oil, I still will stick with Mobil 1. I go 5,000 miles. I figure that is a bit of overkill, kind of like 3,000 miles on regualr oil.

I just changed the oil yesterday and I notice that Mobil 1 specs have chqanged ever so slightly in thier specs on the bottle, maybe 1 degree or so, but still they seemed to have changed in the last few motnhs. Also I noticed the oil looks a little darker when I poured it. Still Mobil 1 is what I will use. Also I like to go with the heavist oil that I can, so I stick with 5W30 instead of 0W30. I feel it is better protection.

why heavy? you want oil to be THIN at start up.... 5W30 is thicker at start up than 0W-30. After that its the same thickness at operating temps!!!

Also, most Dino oils are good for 5k OCI, ie Castrol GTX, TropArtic (blend)
Havoline etc .

5k OCI with M1 Syn is WASTEFUL!
if you are going to chage it every 5k just use Castrol GTX its like 1.25 a quart

 

[peter78]

why heavy? you want oil to be THIN at start up.... 5W30 is thicker at start up than 0W-30. After that its the same thickness at operating temps!!!

Also, most Dino oils are good for 5k OCI, ie Castrol GTX, TropArtic (blend)
Havoline etc .

5k OCI with M1 Syn is WASTEFUL!
if you are going to chage it every 5k just use Castrol GTX its like 1.25 a quart

Heavier oil has less burn off and can stand higher temps. I would use 10W40 if the car compaines recommended it, but they are going the other way, some car compaines require 5W20. Talk about piss water, I feel the longievity of the engine may be at risk.

Your opinion on 5,000 miles is wasteful with Mobil 1 is your opinion. Right now in the voting 50% are going with 5,000 miles while 27% are going 7,500 and 18% are going 10,000 miles. When you sell your car, tell the future buyer that changing the oil at 5,000 miles is wasteful, chances are you just lost your sale.

Dino oils are good for 5,000, I guess they are good for more, since car manufactures say 7,500, still some feel changing more often is cheap insurance. When the engine in the Toyota van starting sludging up it was found the shearing started to begin at 2,700 miles. Kind of makes you wonder if changing at 3,000 miles is just a myth by the oil compaines.

Castrol used to be $1.24, but I have not seen that price for awhile. I can get down to $1.50 a quart if I buy it in the five quart container. I just saw it on sale for $1.77 a quart.

So I guess you can say I disagree with everything you said.

 

[Boaz]

Heavier oil has less burn off and can stand higher temps. I would use 10W40 if the car compaines recommended it, but they are going the other way, some car compaines require 5W20. Talk about piss water, I feel the longievity of the engine may be at risk.

Your opinion on 5,000 miles is wasteful with Mobil 1 is your opinion. Right now in the voting 50% are going with 5,000 miles while 27% are going 7,500 and 18% are going 10,000 miles. When you sell your car, tell the future buyer that changing the oil at 5,000 miles is wasteful, chances are you just lost your sale.

Dino oils are good for 5,000, I guess they are good for more, since car manufactures say 7,500, still some feel changing more often is cheap insurance. When the engine in the Toyota van starting sludging up it was found the shearing started to begin at 2,700 miles. Kind of makes you wonder if changing at 3,000 miles is just a myth by the oil compaines.

Castrol used to be $1.24, but I have not seen that price for awhile. I can get down to $1.50 a quart if I buy it in the five quart container. I just saw it on sale for $1.77 a quart.

So I guess you can say I disagree with everything you said.

Hey I understand if you disagree, but let me put some more light on this please!

Car Manufactures say 7.5k, but that doesnt mean all dinos will hold up to that mileage.

Now, not to start a pissing contest, but I am a oil geek and LOVE to talk about oil....

with that said. :soapbox:

Peter, how do you figure 40 weight/heavier oil burns off less? Most oils have very similar flash points .
Now, if you were to run 40 weight in your vehicle, I promise your operating temps will INCREASE. Oil in the engine needs to be thin at operating temps. THick oil does not equal protection. Do you see what I mean? The thicker the oil at operating temps the slower the oil flows, and it also increases your oil pressure. So thicker oil = Less Flow, thus higher operating temps.
Thinner oil = More Flow and lower operating temps.

Also, lets say we are not debating the "weight" issue.

5W-30 Synthetic is THINNER at start up than Dino 5W-30. Synthetic has been proven to "bond" or stick to engine parts better than dino.


Peter, do not take any offense to this

Have you read this?

Motor Oil

THis is the most informative article on motor I have ever read. It sums it all up.

 

[Kanab]

Heavier oil has less burn off and can stand higher temps. I would use 10W40 if the car compaines recommended it, but they are going the other way, some car compaines require 5W20. Talk about piss water, I feel the longievity of the engine may be at risk.

Your opinion on 5,000 miles is wasteful with Mobil 1 is your opinion. Right now in the voting 50% are going with 5,000 miles while 27% are going 7,500 and 18% are going 10,000 miles. When you sell your car, tell the future buyer that changing the oil at 5,000 miles is wasteful, chances are you just lost your sale.

Dino oils are good for 5,000, I guess they are good for more, since car manufactures say 7,500, still some feel changing more often is cheap insurance. When the engine in the Toyota van starting sludging up it was found the shearing started to begin at 2,700 miles. Kind of makes you wonder if changing at 3,000 miles is just a myth by the oil compaines.

Castrol used to be $1.24, but I have not seen that price for awhile. I can get down to $1.50 a quart if I buy it in the five quart container. I just saw it on sale for $1.77 a quart.

So I guess you can say I disagree with everything you said.

http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/ check it out and tell me what you think. I do 3750 OCI using Castrol GTX 5w30 in my 4runner and 3000 mile OCI using Mobil driven clean 5w30 in the 350Z but I am thinking about going to Mobil 1 with the 0w30 for both with a 5K mile OCI on the 4runner and 7500 mile interval on the 350Z

 

[peter78]

http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/ check it out and tell me what you think.

About the author:
Dr. Haas is a physician and surgeon. He graduated from the University of Florida with a degree in biochemistry with honors. He studied motor oils since high school where he did independent studies on this topic. He studied the properties of viscosity.

When he was a general surgery resident in Chapel Hill he studied the flow mechanics of human blood. Today he continues his research by discussion of oil products with chemists in the field and chemists from the oil manufacturers.
------------------------------------------------------

Well he is a physician and he studied motor oils in high school. He does like lighter wieght oil as do manufactures of automobiles. He does recommend this site:http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ which is a great site. On that site there is quite a bit of heavy wieght vs. lighter wieght oil. Over seas some cars recommend 5W40 wieght oil and heavier wieght is not considered bad.

Also, I think changing to Mobil 1 and extending your change interval makes sense to me.

 

[Boaz]

I am glad you see the light peter!!!

gosh im a geek!:nerd:

 

[peter78]

I am glad you see the light peter!!!

gosh im a geek!:nerd:

I didn't really see the light. I still think heavier is better. And I was joking when I said the author was a physician and he studied oil in high school. To me that hardly makes him a oil expert.