Mobil 1 Oil
- Thread starter AlexJet
- Start date
Boaz said:
Were all kind of geeks on this stuff. My wife looks at me like I'm nuts if I mention any of this BS. Think about it if you change your oil using a quality dino oil using the manufactures recommendations our engines will last 300K+ miles and I've never owned one with more then 130K miles on it and I bought it used with around 40K miles on it and then I ran Mobil 1 for the remainer of my ownership. So the longest I've owned a vehicle is around 90K miles and I don't see that trend changing. I could run the cheapest oil and filter on double the recommended OCI and get 90K out of this engine. So I guess I am a nut case since I seem to care about something that really doesn't make much sense for me to care about. At least you guys make me feel normal
Of course I guess crazy people feel normal in a hospital ward for the insane. 
:
Koz
New member
I've posted this info in the past and feel it was worth posting again. It explains some of the differences between dino and syn. It also explains why synthetic can be used for longer change intervals.
Even though petroleum refining is an advanced science, small amounts of contaminants, such as sulfur and reactive hydrocarbons cannot be completely removed from petroleum, and end up in motor oil base stocks. Synthetics base stock are designed in a lab and therefore do not contain these contaminants. So right from the start petroleum oil is contaminated.
Petroleum oil molecules are of varying sizes. So, as a petroleum oil heats up, the smaller molecules begin to burn off. Deposits and sludge are left behind to coat the inside of your engine. In addition, as smaller particles burn off, the larger, heavier molecules are all that is left to protect the engine. Unfortunately, these larger particles do not flow nearly as well and tend to blanket the components of your engine which only exacerbates the heat problem as friction builds-up. Synthetic oils, on the other hand, because they are not purified, but rather designed within a lab for lubrication purposes, are comprised of molecules of uniform size and shape. Therefore, even if a synthetic oil does burn a little, the remaining oil has the same chemical characteristics that it had before the burn off. There are no smaller molecules to burn-off and no heavier molecules to leave behind. OK, I said I would try to keep it short, bottomline is synthetics contain almost no contaminants compared to petroleum oils since they are not a refined product. As a result, if oil burn-off does occur, there are few, if any, contaminants left behind to leave sludge and deposits on engine surfaces.
Petroleum oils also contain paraffins (wax), they tend to thicken up considerably in cold temperatures. Additives are used to help keep the oil from thickening too much due to these waxy contaminants. Synthetic oils, on the other hand, contain no paraffins. Therefore, they need no additive to help with cold temperature operation. Moreover, even without the additives, synthetics flow at far lower temperatures than petroleum oils. Remember additives cause contamination!
Since synthetics contain no additives to aid with cold temperature flow, synthetics maintain their cold temperature flow characteristics for a long period of time. Additive depletion is not a factor in the cold temperature flow of synthetic oils. Synthetics do not thicken due to burn-off. So, this is not a factor in cold temperature flow either. Of course, the obvious result is that you don't need to change synthetic oil as often to regain adequate cold temperature flow.
Water causes acids to be created within the oil and corrosion will begin within your engine. So, there are additives in the oil which are designed to combat these acids. Synthetics contain higher quality and a higher quantity of these additives in order to properly neutralize these acids for a longer period of time. These additives do deplete over time, but it takes longer with synthetic oils than with petroleum oils.
Here's a couple important facts; Additives are also used to keep oil contamination in check and to keep it from damaging your engine. These additives keep potentially wear causing contaminants suspended and contained in your oil so they don't cause excessive wear or deposit build-up within your engine before your filter can remove them. Synthetics have higher additive treat rates than petroleum oils (in addition to using higher quality, more expensive, additives), so they can perform this contaminant control function for a much longer period of time than a petroleum oil can.
To control acids the Total Base Number (TBN) describes the acid neutralization ability of an oil, with higher TBN oils providing longer lasting acid neutralization. Synthetics nearly always have higher TBN values than petroleum oils do. The result: longer and better acid neutralization capability allowing for extended drain use.
The bottom line is; if you are leasing your vehicle or only keeping it for less then 100K, don't waste your money on synthetics especially when you are changing the oil every 5K miles. If you plan on keeping your vehicle for many years (as I am) and want to provide the best protection possible, use full synthetic. For piece of mind and to take the guess work out of determining how long you can keep the synthetic in, you should break down and spend $20 to get the oil analyzed. Once you have determined a safe change interval, it
Even though petroleum refining is an advanced science, small amounts of contaminants, such as sulfur and reactive hydrocarbons cannot be completely removed from petroleum, and end up in motor oil base stocks. Synthetics base stock are designed in a lab and therefore do not contain these contaminants. So right from the start petroleum oil is contaminated.
Petroleum oil molecules are of varying sizes. So, as a petroleum oil heats up, the smaller molecules begin to burn off. Deposits and sludge are left behind to coat the inside of your engine. In addition, as smaller particles burn off, the larger, heavier molecules are all that is left to protect the engine. Unfortunately, these larger particles do not flow nearly as well and tend to blanket the components of your engine which only exacerbates the heat problem as friction builds-up. Synthetic oils, on the other hand, because they are not purified, but rather designed within a lab for lubrication purposes, are comprised of molecules of uniform size and shape. Therefore, even if a synthetic oil does burn a little, the remaining oil has the same chemical characteristics that it had before the burn off. There are no smaller molecules to burn-off and no heavier molecules to leave behind. OK, I said I would try to keep it short, bottomline is synthetics contain almost no contaminants compared to petroleum oils since they are not a refined product. As a result, if oil burn-off does occur, there are few, if any, contaminants left behind to leave sludge and deposits on engine surfaces.
Petroleum oils also contain paraffins (wax), they tend to thicken up considerably in cold temperatures. Additives are used to help keep the oil from thickening too much due to these waxy contaminants. Synthetic oils, on the other hand, contain no paraffins. Therefore, they need no additive to help with cold temperature operation. Moreover, even without the additives, synthetics flow at far lower temperatures than petroleum oils. Remember additives cause contamination!
Since synthetics contain no additives to aid with cold temperature flow, synthetics maintain their cold temperature flow characteristics for a long period of time. Additive depletion is not a factor in the cold temperature flow of synthetic oils. Synthetics do not thicken due to burn-off. So, this is not a factor in cold temperature flow either. Of course, the obvious result is that you don't need to change synthetic oil as often to regain adequate cold temperature flow.
Water causes acids to be created within the oil and corrosion will begin within your engine. So, there are additives in the oil which are designed to combat these acids. Synthetics contain higher quality and a higher quantity of these additives in order to properly neutralize these acids for a longer period of time. These additives do deplete over time, but it takes longer with synthetic oils than with petroleum oils.
Here's a couple important facts; Additives are also used to keep oil contamination in check and to keep it from damaging your engine. These additives keep potentially wear causing contaminants suspended and contained in your oil so they don't cause excessive wear or deposit build-up within your engine before your filter can remove them. Synthetics have higher additive treat rates than petroleum oils (in addition to using higher quality, more expensive, additives), so they can perform this contaminant control function for a much longer period of time than a petroleum oil can.
To control acids the Total Base Number (TBN) describes the acid neutralization ability of an oil, with higher TBN oils providing longer lasting acid neutralization. Synthetics nearly always have higher TBN values than petroleum oils do. The result: longer and better acid neutralization capability allowing for extended drain use.
The bottom line is; if you are leasing your vehicle or only keeping it for less then 100K, don't waste your money on synthetics especially when you are changing the oil every 5K miles. If you plan on keeping your vehicle for many years (as I am) and want to provide the best protection possible, use full synthetic. For piece of mind and to take the guess work out of determining how long you can keep the synthetic in, you should break down and spend $20 to get the oil analyzed. Once you have determined a safe change interval, it
Bluto
New member
peter78 said:
Mobil 1 states 0W30 "provides the superior low temperature protection of an 0W grade while providing the high temperature performance of an SAE 30. "
How does a 5W30 provide better protection than 0W30? 5W30 provides less protection at startup, and the same performance at operating temp.
I vote 5k. Mobil 1 did not do well in my car at 7.5k. Only way to know is an oil sample analysis.
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Bluto
New member
Pitbull said:Were all kind of geeks on this stuff. My wife looks at me like I'm nuts if I mention any of this BS. Think about it if you change your oil using a quality dino oil using the manufactures recommendations our engines will last 300K+ miles and I've never owned one with more then 130K miles on it and I bought it used with around 40K miles on it and then I ran Mobil 1 for the remainer of my ownership. So the longest I've owned a vehicle is around 90K miles and I don't see that trend changing. I could run the cheapest oil and filter on double the recommended OCI and get 90K out of this engine. So I guess I am a nut case since I seem to care about something that really doesn't make much sense for me to care about. At least you guys make me feel normal
I have the same dementia with washing and waxing, buying tires, and other things non-automotive people can't understand.
I like to reduce potential risk/problems with in reason. I just take precautions others find extreme.
I don't know how much sense is makes. But I can see the 4Runner may be a vehicle I keep for a long time.
Jeff Kleb
New member
As I have stated ad nauseam, I believe that frequent oil & filter changes with a high-quality lubricant serve as cheap insurance and peace of mind.
Even though my 4Runner is leased and I'll turn it back to Toyota in January of '08 with <36k miles, I always do Mobil-1 5w-30 oil changes (with OEM oil filter) every 3,000 miles. I do it myself for less than the cost of a shop doing it with dino oil.
Could I go a lot longer? Yep. Does the oil still look nearly new with only 3k on it? Absolutely. Is it worth it to me? You betcha!
I always treat every vehicle as though I'll drive it for a million miles.....and I either end up with a long-term car or some lucky chap purchases a well-kept car from me that he'll enjoy for quite some time.
:awais:
Just call me "old school" because I just could not bring myself to go 5,000 or 7,000 miles without changing my oil.
:beer:
P.S. Interesting thread, though. You chaps have too much time on your hands!
ProMed
New member
If I remember correctly from either the bob the oil guy site or maybe elsewhere synthetic oil protection actually increases as it ages up to a certain point. You may actually be doing more harm than good by replacing it too frequently. Hopefully some of the more knowledgeable members can chime in regarding this?Jeff Kleb said:
peter78 said:
Article is a few years old.. Interesting how Europe has 10k OCI and here it is 3k.. I think it's all about the money..
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/lng_article/march_lng_new.pdf
jeober
New member
Jeff Kleb said:
Yes, this is what's really important.
And use the recommended viscosity. The engine has oil passage sizing and splash provisions designed for the 30 weight viscosity.
If you want a synthetic blend, blend your own. I mix 50/50 5w-30 (10w-30 during warmer weather).
4dailyRunner
New member
AMSOIL 0W30
I use AMSOIL synthetic (0w30) and filters.
I started this after the "mechanic" failed to replace the skid plates after and oil change.
Volvo and other European manfactures use extended duration oils (synths). M-BENz is rumored to have a 25k interval with syntheitc.
I have gone 10k between changes. No formal testing, but visually it appeared to be the same color after 10k as it was going into the engine. (color checks are not accurate testing).
Gas miliage increase was slight.
It runs cleaner for sure. The RPM idle lower. Engine runs cooler. My traffic circumstances are extreme.
cheers,
I use AMSOIL synthetic (0w30) and filters.
I started this after the "mechanic" failed to replace the skid plates after and oil change.
Volvo and other European manfactures use extended duration oils (synths). M-BENz is rumored to have a 25k interval with syntheitc.
I have gone 10k between changes. No formal testing, but visually it appeared to be the same color after 10k as it was going into the engine. (color checks are not accurate testing).
Gas miliage increase was slight.
It runs cleaner for sure. The RPM idle lower. Engine runs cooler. My traffic circumstances are extreme.
cheers,
AlexJet
New member
My recent oil analysis showed that Mobil 1 got worse then it used to be, and there is nothing to compare to European oil. I used to have BMW in Europe and was doing oil changes every 30k. The oil was fine. Last time I put 5W30 Mobil 1 in my truck and checked its condition after 6.5k I was shocked. From grade 30 it becomes grade 20, I had elevated wear, because oil wasn't perform good. So no Mobil 1 for me unless they going to import European formulas or make their own at European standard.
Texas4Runner
New member
I might just bite the bullit and go with Amsoil again like I used in my MR2 Turbo.
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spongerx
Member
So I just spent the last hour or so reading all of this and I'm a bit comfused. I have a 97 4runner coming up on 126k's and I don't think I'll ever get rid of it. I really love my 4runner. I want to do everything I can to keep her running good so I was going to change to synthetic. Costco has a Mobil syn oil (not sure which one they have) but it's 6 quarts for $30 bucks and I was going to do that tomorrow, but i'd rather wait and see if anyone writes back on this. what do you think? Change to syn or not?
spongerx
Member
Currently I'm using 10w-30 valvoline. I think that was the stuff that the shop put in it last time I got the oil changed but starting today I'm going to do it myself. Will probably change out the diff for syn too. What is OCI? I'm new to this kind of stuff but would like to learn. Thanks for your prompt reply.:biggrin2:
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