More flex out of the 1st gen.

DanKendall6

New member
So to start this off, a few months ago I bought a 1987 4runner. It has a 4 in rough country drop bracket lift in the front and a 4 in block lift in the rear sitting on 32 in tires.

I went on a desert run and found out I needed better suspension. So, I put on the TJ coil ZUK mod as a band aid fix for the time being.
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I've looked for hours and hours on the Web and I'm leaning towards the chevys 63" leafs in the rear. I know this topic has been beat to death but before I jump the gun the only question I'm having is if aftermarket springs will flex better than the chevys ie. All pro and trail gear.
 
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Chevies might not sit level with the 4" ifs drop bracket, they may be a little lower. You may want aftermarket springs for the height.

Your IFS is where the real lack of flex is coming from.

That doesnt look like to bad of flex for your setup.. Id put your money in a locker instead
 
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Soooooo many variables to consider.

That bracket lift isn't doing much for you as flex goes. So, I would keep the lower a-arms as parallel to the ground as you can. Switch the bumpstops out to low profile ones too. The rear can be done simply too. Swapping to longer shackles and FULL springs. Either taller springs or longer like the chevys. Keep in mind, you'll have to weld stuff.

Don't forget that your shocks can limit your articulation so you'll have to measure that. You still running that front sway bar???? Depending on the laws in your area.....you could just remove it OR get disconnects.....

Have fun.
 
I'm thinking of getting a 2 in block or longer shackles along with the 63s. The low range chevy kit looks pretty good. I'm wondering if I can request a certain shackle length. After I get everything on I'll measure to see what shocks I want. I've heard most people do 12"
Is there any need for the shock relocation crossmember?
And for the ifs my t bars aren't cranked at all and my sway bar is off. I'm not too happy with the bracket lift but I'll keep it for the time being. Unless if the ome torsion bars are a better option.

Would the thinner bump stops be ok for romping in the desert still?
I just installed 4.88 gears along with a lsd up front. After I get the suspension dialed in I'll be starting my exo and getting bigger tires..

Thanks for the great replies guys!
 
I'm thinking of getting a 2 in block or longer shackles along with the 63s.

Blocks are not a good idea if you're going to be wheeling. The flexier you get in back, the more you're going to be prone to axle wrap, and blocks will magnify any axle wrap you have ten-fold. Leave the blocks for the mall crawlers.

There's things you can do when you're swapping the Chevys to get the lift you want. Shackle length is part of it, but you don't want huge shackles because that can introduce problems too. You'll probably have to stuff more leafs into your Chevy springs to pick them up a bit, which means a little less flex but that's good in a way because less flex = more stability on the side hills. It's a balancing act for sure. You'll have to play with it to get it right, I don't know anybody with a good Chevy swap setup that hasn't reworked it several times to dial it in. I know a couple guys that hate Chevy swaps and think they suck because they didn't take the time to get it right.

Thinner bump stops maybe not such a good idea if you're planning on big hucks. Maybe a set of air bumps?
 
63s do flex nicely,but do not yield much lift. We generally add a mail leaf to the pack and adjust height by length of leaf. Oh and its usually pulled from and h3 spring pack,be prepaired to pop it off a few times to get it right since this is your first time .
 
That kit comes with a frenched hanger. I'm not really sure I wanna french it in there. I've heard people just weld it instead of frenching
 
People french it to get it to sit lower, and you trying to go the other way, so I agree with not frenching it in.

The chevies will flex better than your current springs by a few inches, but the source of your no flex problem is still the front.
 
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