Most efficient way to raise the rear 1 inch

[ECT_Gumby]

So right now my rear sits 1/4" higher than the front. That means once I put a load on it, it will look slightly saggy, plus I kinda like the raked look. I was looking at spacers, I'm just not sure how how they will play with my current setup.

I also plan on putting a 1" body lift on at about the same time.

So my question is what do you guys think is the most efficient, cost effective way to raise the rear an inch?

Thanks in advance :wave:

 

[T4Tools]

I'd suggest air lift. May not be the cheapest option, but it would be adjustable.

 

[Toymaker]

Spacers

 

[kball]

Here's my story....

The PO of my truck had airbags installed in the rear. The original cone shaped bump stops inside the springs were gone. I installed a Toytec Ultimate lift with 890's and a 10mm spacer. Got rid of the airbags. The truck always sat pretty level after the lift which I didn't want. Loading it up for a road trip confirmed, saggy butt. I knew just getting the cone bump stops would not be enough. I got them anyway from a guy doing a part out. A couple years later (LOL I'm lazy and slow) I bought Daystar 1.5" spacers off Amazon. Everything sat for probably another year till I finally got completely sick of the sag. I took out the 10mm spacers and installed the cones and the daystars. Looks great to me now and I haven't had it loaded yet but I'm sure it will stay level now at the worst.

Oh, and I'm still using the original panhard bar with no issues yet. I'm sure if I articulate too much off road the driveshaft and fuel tank might meet but drive-ability seems to be the same as before.

 

[snow junky]

get coil spacers

 

[168981]

I thought about this a while back, and ran it by the members here. I didn't get a solid without a doubt argument against it. Maybe you can do a half body lift? Just install the pucks in the rear, and maybe angle it so the pucks stay flush against the body.

 

[LIVEVIL]

I thought about this a while back, and ran it by the members here. I didn't get a solid without a doubt argument against it. Maybe you can do a half body lift? Just install the pucks in the rear, and maybe angle it so the pucks stay flush against the body.

Not a good idea

 

[168981]

Not a good idea

Let me mention again that no other members have given an actual valid argument backed with facts that says this is a bad idea. Most people just have strong feelings against it, and don't know what would happen, and THINK it would be a bad idea.

I am not talking about a 3" body lift in the back either. Maybe at most 1.5".

 

[RoofRack]

Ome 906

I put the Old Man Emu 906 Springs on my '99. Solved the sag both loaded and unloaded. It's a tad raked unloaded and level when loaded. Very happy.

-M

 

[afg10000]

I put the Old Man Emu 906 Springs on my '99. Solved the sag both loaded and unloaded. It's a tad raked unloaded and level when loaded. Very happy.

-M

x2 on the 906's. Slapped a set on the wife's truck and they leveled it right out. Can't go wrong with OME.

 

[Konkordmusk]

Let me mention again that no other members have given an actual valid argument backed with facts that says this is a bad idea. Most people just have strong feelings against it, and don't know what would happen, and THINK it would be a bad idea.

I am not talking about a 3" body lift in the back either. Maybe at most 1.5".

Would you do it to your truck, and feel safe?
I would never allow any of my body mounts sit at an angle. That's extra lateral stress on the mount and the bolt. How would you even get the body mounts that you didn't install a puck on to torque properly? There would be a gap in all but maybe the second to last front mount as well as the first front mounts. Then your body is only sitting on 4-6 mounts out of 14-16 or whatever. Still sound safe?

 

[sportscarfan]

Let me mention again that no other members have given an actual valid argument backed with facts that says this is a bad idea. Most people just have strong feelings against it, and don't know what would happen, and THINK it would be a bad idea.

I am not talking about a 3" body lift in the back either. Maybe at most 1.5".

There are 5 body mounting points per side. To achieve a body rake, you'd have use progressively thinner mounts (not ideal) or progressively thinner AND one side cut at the rake angle. Add the fact that once you rake the body in comparison to the frame, the mounting holes aren't going to line up anymore. So then what? Slot the holes? Certainly this can be done, but not easily.

What you seem to be suggesting is to stick some 1.5" spacers at the back of the body and call it good. This leaves 3/5ths of the body in the center unsupported.

Not a good idea.

 

[sjwelna]

Let me mention again that no other members have given an actual valid argument backed with facts that says this is a bad idea. Most people just have strong feelings against it, and don't know what would happen, and THINK it would be a bad idea.

I am not talking about a 3" body lift in the back either. Maybe at most 1.5".

I say you go for it. I'll wait for the next thread to be posted... "installed half a body lift, now my doors won't close and my roof has a crease".

To the OP~ Just get a set of springs and call it a day.

 

[D Farms]

there is no problem with doing a body rake, each puck must be cut to a specific length based on how far apart they are, and then the body lift is installed just like a nornal bodg lift. the actual angle is less than 2 degrees, and the rubber mounts will only deflect slightly. no hole slotting is needed, the only guess work is how much is needed to extend the steering length. Your arguements for why it wont work are false.

 

[Konkordmusk]

there is no problem with doing a body rake, each puck must be cut to a specific length based on how far apart they are, and then the body lift is installed just like a nornal bodg lift. the actual angle is less than 2 degrees, and the rubber mounts will only deflect slightly. no hole slotting is needed, the only guess work is how much is needed to extend the steering length. Your arguements for why it wont work are false.

We were arguing against the fact that the poster suggested only half a body lift, NOT a gradual lift for rake.
Do you know anyone who has done this, in either style, just for body rake?

 

[D Farms]

We were arguing against the fact that the poster suggested only half a body lift, NOT a gradual lift for rake.
Do you know anyone who has done this, in either style, just for body rake?

I will do mine sometime soon, I just need to lathe a couple more blocks, and it not to be like 110deg

 

[Konkordmusk]

I will do mine sometime soon, I just need to lathe a couple more blocks, and it not to be like 110deg

Using some geometry math mumbojumbo tells me that if your largest puck is 2", the difference is actually even less than a degree, not around 2 degrees. Somewhere around 0.80º. Unless you have some seriously accurate milling machines, and I'm talking less than a degree of difference, then it may not even be worth trying machine ANY slant, and just sacrificing the deflection, which will be unnoticeable. Otherwise, gradually smaller blocks are definitely NOT a bad idea. Only using blocks on the back half.
In fact, I know of some Suburban nerds who, when swapping diesel frames and engines under their body, will use reverse rake blocks to keep the body level.

 

[D Farms]

initially I made a 3" body lift in order to just test everything, and it works, so now I just cutting down the pucks. and yes for a zero to 3" lift its somewhere between 1 and two degrees. at the wheel wells my back will essentially have a 0.5" body lift and up front about 2.5". I lowered my front to about 1.5" of suspension lift but I have also clearanced my front to run 35s without a body lift. I have also shortened my bump stops up front so I have even more up travel, about 1-2" hence the need for the body lift. in the back I have about 4-5" of lift so no body lift is needed so thats the reason to taper it. I rub in the back a bit but I need to extend the bump stops anyways.

 

[Konkordmusk]

initially I made a 3" body lift in order to just test everything, and it works, so now I just cutting down the pucks. and yes for a zero to 3" lift its somewhere between 1 and two degrees. at the wheel wells my back will essentially have a 0.5" body lift and up front about 2.5". I lowered my front to about 1.5" of suspension lift but I have also clearanced my front to run 35s without a body lift. I have also shortened my bump stops up front so I have even more up travel, about 1-2" hence the need for the body lift. in the back I have about 4-5" of lift so no body lift is needed so thats the reason to taper it. I rub in the back a bit but I need to extend the bump stops anyways.

I'm not sure I follow your math. If you back will have 0.5" and your front 2.5", there's a difference of two inches. For which the degree is 0.71. For a difference of 0-3, the angle is 1.07. These numbers are calculated using 160" for length as provided specs from Toyota. Again, I would not bother machining a degree or less difference. Tooling deflection and all.

 

[D Farms]

overall it will taper from zero to 3" but at the wheel wells it will be about .5 and 2.5