Clever High Idle Idea

[WayneIndustries]

Dear Toyota'ites,

I just recently got a work van and put a 2000W power inverter in there, had to use a vacuum to suck some pull-string but the charge on the alternator would drop and the unit would shut off (I was using a voltage sensing relay that cuts out at 12.8V and kicks on a 13.3V).

I had an idea about how to high idle my 4Runner (2001) some time ago but didn't have a need so I didn't try it out, but now that I need a high idle on the van to run the inverter at high loads at times I'm about to test it out. I was trying to adjust the pedal just right on the van, but the idle kept adjusting to restrict air if I kept it faintly cracked trying to keep the idle at 1000 RPM and would bring it back down to 750; so I had to keep pushing the throttle more ever second then eventually it would stop trying to adjust for idle and the engine would rev up to 2k, very annoying.

This setup should work on any car past/present/future that has vacuum. Let me know what you guys think (the only way to high idle this van is with a $400 unit to control the electronic drive-by-wire setup, and I'm tired of car manufacturers making simple things complicated and expensive AF - they can kiss my ass).

1. Install a hosed T barb inline with vacuum line with a specialty T fitting: the outlet side of the T fitting should be 1/2"

2. Add 1/2" hose to T tap fitting, leading to a 1/2" Normally Closed solenoid

3. Install switch with wires to solenoid to turn it on to open the vacuum line to outside air

4. Install 1/2" hose outside of solenoid to a Nord stainless steel needle valve to regulate the amount of vac leak you need to land at your desired idle.

I've tried this with a 1/4" Nord needle valve, but all the way open it began to sound different but barely altered the idle. A 1/2", or 3/4", unit should do it. You can always adapt 1/2" hose up to a 3/4" size with barbed couplers from US Plastics or Amazon from the outlet of the solenoid. I don't think the 1/2" hose would be the limit, the size of the opening inside the valve would be.

Thoughts? I have other things to work on this weekend. Just thought I would throw it out there, I will get around to it eventually. Maybe someone else can throw it together and work out the kinks before I get to it.

 

[WayneIndustries]

I found that I had a 3/4" needle valve, that isn't going to work. A regular gas/ball valve will be needed. The orifice inside the inlet is still only 1/8".

 

[riceandpho]

is it more easier to just use a pedal depressor?

like the caulking gun handle type of thing? i think you get more power when its revved up at least 2000 rpm.

 

[MartennSie]

What do you think about it?

 

[MartennSie]

I want to talk about it

 

[Runnin on E]

Depending on where the vacuum line enters the intake, you would be by-passing some of the important sensors for the fuel injection like the mass airflow sensor the intake air temp sensor and the manifold air pressure sensor. The FI will probably not be able to calculate a correct mixture. I'm guessing that mixture will be lean and depending on how long you have your engine at this high idle it will increase cylinder wear (too hot with little oil). If you have an AFR gauge you can tell what the FI is calculating. As someone else suggested you would be better off using a throttle pedal clamp, that at least gives the FI a better chance at getting the mixture right.