MPG on your 3rd Gen?

[GangsterOfLove]

I'm getting 20 with the mighty 4 banger. Box stock. I had hoped for better but to get anything going I have to drive like I stole it. Maybe a long trip on the interstate trip will help the average.

 

[rudogg760]

That does seem a bit low. I have similar setup and I was getting around 15-16MPG unadjusted for tires. Now getting about 14.5mpg with mix of city and highway. Not sure if it's summer time or I'm just driving truck harder. I added a can of seafoam this week, changing the air filter, and cleaning the MAF and throttle body. I'm not really worried about MPGs, but use it as a possible indication of how the truck is running.

"Hypermiling" back from a trip (60mph, driving behind semis, truck empty, pre-roof rack) I once got 23mpg. Worst I got was 14mpg... completely loaded, doing 70-90mph coming back from a trip.

I just ordered plugs and wires. And k&n drop in filter. Hope it makes a difference. I've only had it for about 5 months n not sure how the p.o. had treated it.

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[oryades]

2000 SR5, Auto, 265/75R16

50/50 city/trail riding

no highway

 

[octanejunkie]

I just ordered plugs and wires. And k&n drop in filter. Hope it makes a difference. I've only had it for about 5 months n not sure how the p.o. had treated it.

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Mine loads up the air filter fast. Make sure you check and keep your MAF clean too.

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[behitert]

The max you will fit is 15gal even though the tank is a little bigger then that due to the fill neck design . But yes if your averaging 17-18 mpg your doing ok.

 

[TXLX1]

I just ordered plugs and wires. And k&n drop in filter. Hope it makes a difference. I've only had it for about 5 months n not sure how the p.o. had treated it.

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After plugs, wires, air filter, clean MAF, throttle body... If it is still low MPG, you may want research replacing the A/F ratio sensors (o2 sensors) if you have a lot of miles. They can be less effective and not set the Check Engine light for failure.

 

[rudogg760]

After plugs, wires, air filter, clean MAF, throttle body... If it is still low MPG, you may want research replacing the A/F ratio sensors (o2 sensors) if you have a lot of miles. They can be less effective and not set the Check Engine light for failure.

Is it hard to clean the maf? I took the intake tube off and wiped down the throttle body. It was pretty dirty. There's 280k miles on it so I might just do the o2 sender just because.

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[TXLX1]

Is it hard to clean the maf? I took the intake tube off and wiped down the throttle body. It was pretty dirty. There's 280k miles on it so I might just do the o2 sender just because.

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I haven't cleaned the MAF on my 4runner yet, but other Toyota's and brands I've done have been easy. You might be able to see it in the air intake tube and spray it off (with appropriate cleaner) without disassembling too much.

 

[octanejunkie]

I haven't cleaned the MAF on my 4runner yet, but other Toyota's and brands I've done have been easy. You might be able to see it in the air intake tube and spray it off (with appropriate cleaner) without disassembling too much.

Removing the MAF is easy. Don't try to clean it on the car, you can't, and you don't want to spray the cleaner into your TB/intake.

Cleaning the MAF with MAF cleaner is the way to go. Spray it from both sides and let it dry then re install. Be careful of the little wires in it.

 

[TXLX1]

Removing the MAF is easy. Don't try to clean it on the car, you can't, and you don't want to spray the cleaner into your TB/intake.

Cleaning the MAF with MAF cleaner is the way to go. Spray it from both sides and let it dry then re install. Be careful of the little wires in it.

Prob not ideal to clean it on the car, but I'm guilty of it. A little MAF cleaner into throttle body or intake isn't going to do anything. Hosing down the MAF sensor with throttle body cleaner is probably not a great idea since it's a little more delicate than other parts. :lookout:

 

[CowboyBob]

I get about 20MPG on my 3.4 2000 4Runner.

 

[octanejunkie]

Cold Air Intake kit

Anyone using one of these, or similar, and see an advantage in MPG or performance?

 

[rudogg760]

Anyone using one of these, or similar, and see an advantage in MPG or performance?

I would like just the tube to my stock box. On another note I have my a.c. full blast all the time could it bring my mpgs down that much?

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[rudogg760]

Also I think my fan clutch is always engaged. As soon as I turn it on I can't stop the fan. I was under the impression that while the engine is cool you could stop the fan with a rolled up newspaper and when it gets to temp the clutch engaged. But from the get go I can't stop the fan. In assuming that's bad for the mpgs.

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[octanejunkie]

Also I think my fan clutch is always engaged. As soon as I turn it on I can't stop the fan. I was under the impression that while the engine is cool you could stop the fan with a rolled up newspaper and when it gets to temp the clutch engaged. But from the get go I can't stop the fan. In assuming that's bad for the mpgs.

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Any extra drag on the engine will potentially decrease HP and fuel economy. When your engine is cold the fan clutch should be completely disengaged to allow the engine to warm up faster. As the engine heats up, heat travels to the fan clutch via the water pump and the expands the clutch pads driving the fan. This is a common part to fail on many vehicles, but it will usually fail engaged, so it cools fulltime. If it failed disengaged you'd overheat quickly while standing still.

That, and the potential HP loss, is why I'm a fan of electric cooling fans, pun intended. This is a topic rife for its own thread. Sorry to hijack, OP.

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[rudogg760]

Any extra drag on the engine will potentially decrease HP and fuel economy. When your engine is cold the fan clutch should be completely disengaged to allow the engine to warm up faster. As the engine heats up, heat travels to the fan clutch via the water pump and the expands the clutch pads driving the fan. This is a common part to fail on many vehicles, but it will usually fail engaged, so it cools fulltime. If it failed disengaged you'd overheat quickly while standing still.

That, and the potential HP loss, is why I'm a fan of electric cooling fans, pun intended. This is a topic rife for its own thread. Sorry to hijack, OP.

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Well my 4runner heats up still. That's why I tried to see if it failed disengaged. But it seems to have failed engaged. I have a new one to put on. Prolly get it done this weekend just wondering if that would configure to my mpg sucking. In going to do the wires and plugs today. I'll update on that

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[edough]

Getting about 19mpg in my 1999 Highlander with roof racks. But I've only gone through one tank with it so far.

 

[GrassFed]

Any extra drag on the engine will potentially decrease HP and fuel economy. When your engine is cold the fan clutch should be completely disengaged to allow the engine to warm up faster. As the engine heats up, heat travels to the fan clutch via the water pump and the expands the clutch pads driving the fan. This is a common part to fail on many vehicles, but it will usually fail engaged, so it cools fulltime. If it failed disengaged you'd overheat quickly while standing still.

That, and the potential HP loss, is why I'm a fan of electric cooling fans, pun intended. This is a topic rife for its own thread. Sorry to hijack, OP.

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Right on. Thank you for that info. I never knew that. Pretty much all of our cars have failed engaged then. I always thought that's just how they were.

I appreciate your knowledge and thank you for sharing it.

 

[octanejunkie]

Right on. Thank you for that info. I never knew that. Pretty much all of our cars have failed engaged then. I always thought that's just how they were.

I appreciate your knowledge and thank you for sharing it.

Apologies for speaking with any false authority about 4runners; my bad. My experience is in general automotive, and mostly custom classics, not factory.

I just spun the fan on my 4runner in the garage by hand (engine temp below 100°) and there is decent drag on it. It turns independent of the engine, but doesn't free spin.

Fan clutch activation on 4runners may be non-thermal, or centripetal - not heat activated at all. Hayden explains basic operation and theory here http://www.haydenauto.com/fan clutch tutorial-part 1/content.aspx

But no matter how it engages, if you can't turn your clutched cooling fan freely by hand when your engine is not running and cold, then the fan clutch has most likely failed.

I hope that's more clear, and accurate :gulp:



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[GrassFed]

Junkie no sweat man. Any and all info is welcomed. I was clueless to start and now have a little better idea of the different belt driven cooling fan systems. Much appreciated. I fear some people get discouraged because they get flamed for sharing info. Whether it is right or wrong, at least if we share it we can get feedback etc. I've learned an awful lot from the internet about cars and still have so much more to learn. Let's keep the knowledge train rolling

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