Multi-Function Switch Malfunction?? Blinker & RPM's

Yeah I figured but it appeared to be stock when I pulled the harness out. Same tape and clips holding it to the body of the runner as the rest of the stuff I've messed with. I really can't see why this would have thrown the abs light, But it did cure my blinker issue. Maybe it's time to bring El Durko into this... [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]

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Well. you need to read the ABS code(s), give it a reset, and go from there. It just takes a paper clip. What's your year (they vary)?
 
Well. you need to read the ABS code(s), give it a reset, and go from there. It just takes a paper clip. What's your year (they vary)?
I ran the OBD and nothing pulled up. I have an 00' limited. Is there a relay I need to pull under the hood or just pull the battery for a few minutes?

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I ran the OBD and nothing pulled up. I have an 00' limited. Is there a relay I need to pull under the hood or just pull the battery for a few minutes?

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I think '00 is the same as my '99. Let me find my FSM, but you can only read and reset from the diagnostic plug in the engine bay--nothing to do with OBDII. I'll get back to you.
 
I ran the OBD and nothing pulled up. I have an 00' limited. Is there a relay I need to pull under the hood or just pull the battery for a few minutes?

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Ok. I compared my '99 FSM and the on-line FSM for '02. The VSC/TRAC system is very different from what we have, but the part about reading and resetting codes is identical, as are the codes themselves, just '02 has codes we will never get.

So get a paper clip to substitute for the SST, remove the short clip in the diagnostic plug in the engine bay, and short the terminals as shown under the part about NOT using the hand-held Toyota tester. First, READ the codes from the flashing ABS light, then clear them.

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/di/abswebdb/preche.pdf

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/di/abswebdb/dtcc.pdf
 
[MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION]

So what's the actual fix for this? Are you removing the trailer harness module completely? Do we not need the module or what?
If you aren't pulling a trailer, remove all that wiring completely. Most of the harnesses out there are 'plug-n-play' for vehicles like the 4Runner - so you should just be able to unplug it where it intercepts with the truck's harness.

You probably don't need to and shouldn't be connecting any of those wires that connect to the 'vehicle' side of the harness - they are all different signals, even if the wires might be the same color (brake, turn L, turn R, tail and ground).

-Charlie
 
[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] all I'm getting is code when clicking on these links.

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Dunno. They work for me, and I post these all the time and never a problem...

You do have a .pdf reader, right?

Can somebody else try them, please?
 
Not working on my phone. I have a pdf viewer installed but my phone keeps opening it as a webpage. Guess I'll have to wait till I get home tonight.

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[MENTION=118628]73Duster440[/MENTION] I think I did something wrong... I cut the box and connected the 4 wires on top of the box together. 2 white together, 2 green together and same for other side . Now my abs light is on. Did I do it incorrectly? Is it a physical plug that comes apart or the black box that splits the wire that you have to cut the wires to remove? Hopefully I didn't do any long term damage...

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Sorry I didn't back to you sooner. Mine has connectors like [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION]

The abs light comes on on our trucks to let you know that a brake light is burned out. The LEDs that you and I have swapped in draw far less current than the halogen counterpart and therefore make the ECU think a bulb is burned out.

This is the only downside I have found with running LEDs

There are 2 ways to fix this problem:
(a) Add resisters for each bulb or (b) Swap back to halogen
*Technically 3 options (c) Remove abs light bulb in the cluster

One other important note is that when the ABS light is on the ABS system will not activate. This is a non issue for me as the ABS System has never worked properly and has caused more problems when trying to stop than helping.
 
Sorry I didn't back to you sooner. Mine has connectors like [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION]

The abs light comes on on our trucks to let you know that a brake light is burned out. The LEDs that you and I have swapped in draw far less current than the halogen counterpart and therefore make the ECU think a bulb is burned out.

This is the only downside I have found with running LEDs

There are 2 ways to fix this problem:
(a) Add resisters for each bulb or (b) Swap back to halogen
*Technically 3 options (c) Remove abs light bulb in the cluster

One other important note is that when the ABS light is on the ABS system will not activate. This is a non issue for me as the ABS System has never worked properly and has caused more problems when trying to stop than helping.
Any idea what size resistor I need? My tails are 01' led tails so the led board is built into them. Can't swap out with halogen.

Also is it normal for this kind of problem to happen after I cut off the trailer harness? Should I also still try and reset the abs?
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