My Brakes Were In Really Bad Shape

JimKW

New member
I posted some of this in another thread, but here is the end result.

I got the pads and rotors from Daytona Beach Toyota for $475 delivered to Ohio. I got the higher end front pads vs. the AZ pads which were $50 cheaper.

I was going to pay a mechanic $250 to put them on which I thought was a pretty good deal and I just didn't feel like doing it myself. When I told my son (35 years old) I was paying somebody $250 he said he would do it for that. I know he does good work cause I'm his Dad.

Well it turns out the front calipers were bad. The rear pistons of the fron calipers were not moving at all and the pads on one side were in there crooked and not moving. So I call a NAPA not far from his house and buy two rotors and pay for them over the phone. Another $193. He said the rear calipers were fine after he cleaned them up.

So it came to a total of $918 for everything OEM. That's a good bit of money for a brake job! But the car feels like a different car. I think it was on the verge of being very dangerous.

By the way I'm glad I paid my son instead of doing it myself.
 
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I posted some of this in another thread, but here is the end result.

I got the pads and rotors from Daytona Beach Toyota for $475 delivered to Ohio. I got the higher end front pads vs. the AZ pads which were $50 cheaper.

You could have saved several hundred bucks by purchasing non-OEM rotors and pads, which in reality should work just as well as the OEM stuff. I put Centric rotors on and for all four rotors and pads I paid right around $300. I haven't had to replace my calipers (yet), but obviously that would have pushed the cost up some.

Amazon.com: Centric Parts 120.44128 Premium Brake Rotor with E-Coating: Automotive

Amazon.com: Akebono ACT606 ProACT Ultra-Premium Ceramic Brake Pad Set: Automotive

Amazon.com: Akebono ACT976 ProACT Ultra-Premium Ceramic Brake Pad Set: Automotive

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZZPRC/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
I posted some of this in another thread, but here is the end result.

I got the pads and rotors from Daytona Beach Toyota for $475 delivered to Ohio. I got the higher end front pads vs. the AZ pads which were $50 cheaper.

I was going to pay a mechanic $250 to put them on which I thought was a pretty good deal and I just didn't feel like doing it myself. When I told my son (35 years old) I was paying somebody $250 he said he would do it for that. I know he does good work cause I'm his Dad.

Well it turns out the front calipers were bad. The rear pistons of the fron calipers were not moving at all and the pads on one side were in there crooked and not moving. So I call a NAPA not far from his house and buy two rotors and pay for them over the phone. Another $193. He said the rear calipers were fine after he cleaned them up.

So it came to a total of $918 for everything OEM. That's a good bit of money for a brake job! But the car feels like a different car. I think it was on the verge of being very dangerous.

By the way I'm glad I paid my son instead of doing it myself.

OMG! You could have purchased aftermarket, vented performance rotors and pads for almost half of what you paid for the OEM stuff. Well, you live, you learn.
 
I wanted OEM. It has 140K on it and this might have been the original brakes. I've had it since 90K and I know I haven't changed them. I prefer OEM brakes and everything I read on this forum and other reviews pushed me towards sticking with OEM. I believe you get what you pay for and there is no way I wanted $300 pads and rotors. I wouldn't even buy the economy AZ pads from the Dealer.
 
For me the only dealer parts I would buy are the pads because of less chance of squeal and dust. For rotor, calipers, etc. aftermarket is a much more economical options. There is no reason at all to buy new calipers, and certainly not the 4 runner 4 piston calipers. Remanufactured calipers with a lifetime warranty are the only way to go because without a doubt they will fail again, and again, and again.

I would be very suspicious of a claim of getting 140k out of brakes. Unless we are talking about a car that is used for cross country highway driving. Mine at 140K was on the third set of pads and calipers and 2nd set of rotors. You pretty much have to replace the calipers every time you replace the pads.
 
I wanted OEM. It has 140K on it and this might have been the original brakes. I've had it since 90K and I know I haven't changed them. I prefer OEM brakes and everything I read on this forum and other reviews pushed me towards sticking with OEM. I believe you get what you pay for and there is no way I wanted $300 pads and rotors. I wouldn't even buy the economy AZ pads from the Dealer.

You know what they say about a fool and his money, right? And your son sounds like a real hero for charging his dad $250 to do his brakes. Is he out of work or something?
 
You know what they say about a fool and his money, right? And your son sounds like a real hero for charging his dad $250 to do his brakes. Is he out of work or something?

Yeah right I'm the one that is a fool.

By the way I offered him $250 instead of paying a mechanic and he said sure. He could use the money and I was going to spend it anyway. My two Grandsons enjoyed watching their Dad work on Papa Jim's car. I was going to say something derogatory here, but decided to just consider the source and say no more.

To the other poster, I did buy rebuilt lifetime guarantee calipers. You should wouldn't get new ones for $88 each.
 
For me the only dealer parts I would buy are the pads because of less chance of squeal and dust. For rotor, calipers, etc. aftermarket is a much more economical options. There is no reason at all to buy new calipers, and certainly not the 4 runner 4 piston calipers. Remanufactured calipers with a lifetime warranty are the only way to go because without a doubt they will fail again, and again, and again.

I would be very suspicious of a claim of getting 140k out of brakes. Unless we are talking about a car that is used for cross country highway driving. Mine at 140K was on the third set of pads and calipers and 2nd set of rotors. You pretty much have to replace the calipers every time you replace the pads.

I'm still not convinced this isn't isolated to mainly salt/humid states. I still haven't seen a 4Runner with seized calipers in my area, nor are mine or any of the ones I have seen show evidence of sticking. Not saying it doesn't exist, just that it seems not to be common in California.

Also it always baffles me how people are making brakes on a 5,000lbs SUV last 100K; they must be engine braking the entire time they drive the vehicle or something?

You know what they say about a fool and his money, right? And your son sounds like a real hero for charging his dad $250 to do his brakes. Is he out of work or something?

To be fair, I don't charge my family and friends labor, just parts; but many times money is forced on me anyways in some form or another. Also some parents don't mind paying their children because it helps create a sense of self worth when they do an honest day's work and get paid; rather than unconsciously/consciously teaching them that working hard nets no rewards and you end up being used.

Its all based upon situation, if the OP's son was taking him to the cleaners and/or taking advantage of him, that'd be a different story.
 
I'm still not convinced this isn't isolated to mainly salt/humid states. I still haven't seen a 4Runner with seized calipers in my area, nor are mine or any of the ones I have seen show evidence of sticking. Not saying it doesn't exist, just that it seems not to be common in California.

Also it always baffles me how people are making brakes on a 5,000lbs SUV last 100K; they must be engine braking the entire time they drive the vehicle or something?



To be fair, I don't charge my family and friends labor, just parts; but many times money is forced on me anyways in some form or another. Also some parents don't mind paying their children because it helps create a sense of self worth when they do an honest day's work and get paid; rather than unconsciously/consciously teaching them that working hard nets no rewards and you end up being used.

Its all based upon situation, if the OP's son was taking him to the cleaners and/or taking advantage of him, that'd be a different story.
I see it on full size GMC trucks often. the fronts will last well over 100k generally, the rears, no so much.

usually the front rotors are trashed long before the pads are worn out.


im pretty sure my 06 has the original front brakes. its got just over 100k. they will need to be changed in the next few months.
 
I'm still not convinced this isn't isolated to mainly salt/humid states. I still haven't seen a 4Runner with seized calipers in my area, nor are mine or any of the ones I have seen show evidence of sticking. Not saying it doesn't exist, just that it seems not to be common in California.

I'm in Oregon and my rig is up on jack stands right now while I wait for more sunlight tomorrow to finish the job, because both it's front calipers had seized lower pistons. The rears were fine.

As for aftermarket rotors and pads ... I got BrakeMotive (on ebay) slotted and cross drilled ones about 5 years ago for less than $300 all around and I *love* them. They worked better than stock (or at least, what I bought it with) and have had the least amount of dusting than any brakes on any car I've ever owned, including EBC and Hawk.
 
I had the same brakemotive rotors, they are ok, they did dust a lot with ebc pads, I have switched it all out with stoptech slot rotors and hawk lts pads, way less dust, barely any dust for the month I had the truck washed. [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] I haven't had any piston problems on my calipers yet. We do live in the bay area.
 
I live in the sunshine state and have had no trouble with my calipers seizing. Recently replaced the pads all the way around at about the 90k mark. I never engine brake, but the original pads were due to be changed. The original rotors were fine. Check it out.
 

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You are not being a fool. That's what you called being fair. If I am in your situation, i'd rather pay my own son to fix my car than others. I know he's a family member but if he's on a situation that tries to make ends meet, anyone would help.

I remember my brother in law who keeps fixing a relatives car for free and he's on a situation where he really needed some money and ends up not getting anything but a thank you. A little bit of financial payment for the work can go a long way.

Yeah right I'm the one that is a fool.

By the way I offered him $250 instead of paying a mechanic and he said sure. He could use the money and I was going to spend it anyway. My two Grandsons enjoyed watching their Dad work on Papa Jim's car. I was going to say something derogatory here, but decided to just consider the source and say no more.

To the other poster, I did buy rebuilt lifetime guarantee calipers. You should wouldn't get new ones for $88 each.
 
GOD, Jim, you are just so dumb!!
you paid your son to do the work, your son, not a stranger, but your friggin son, how dare you????????
you bought OEM, again, how dare you? god, man you could have saved millions according to some of these great mechanics on this bored.
Jim you do whateva the fack you want, its your money, its your son, its your truck..............
maybe jim is better off than you geniuses give him credit for, maybe the extra bucks don't mean sh!t to him.

Jim you should have been on the grassy knoll when JFK was taken out, so you could see who else was invoilved.
jim OMG you should have bought a Mercedes, and you wouldn't have had to pay your son to do the work.
Jim, you should have told Bush, there were no WMDs to be found, and we'd all be better off.
Jim you could have played yesterdays lotto numbers and you could have been a millionaire, man o man, how stupid of you...........a fool and his money

do the brakes work YEP, are you happy, YEP, good for you, I would have your son do them again, the next time they go out,, and buy OEM<, cuz you can!



should have, could have, would have, gimme a fackin break!!!
 
On my 4th set of rotors and pads at about 300k. I wore em down to the backing. Auto zone lifetime replacement has been good to me haha.
 

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Wow. Those rotors on the left were for 16" wheels. Your pads were not working properly the whole time. Looks like the rotors on the right are the proper ones. Your pads should last longer too.
 
Wow. Those rotors on the left were for 16" wheels. Your pads were not working properly the whole time. Looks like the rotors on the right are the proper ones. Your pads should last longer too.

Those rotors are exactly the same left and right. One is old and worn out, one is shiny new.

Most of the SR5's have the smaller rotors that will fit 16" wheels. That does not mean they are incorrect. Many SR5's came with preferred equipment packages that included the typical 17" SR5 wheels.
 
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The first time I ever replaced the rotors and pads I went to auto zone and said I had a sr5 with 17" rims and they gave me the 13" brake rotors. Went to assemble and got em together but they would not spin at all. Then found out some came with the 12" rotors and never had a problem since, except stopping power is a little short especially when towing.
 
Those rotors are exactly the same left and right

So, you are saying that if you put the rotors together, face to face, old and new, that they are the same diameter?? The way your pads are worn, with the top 1/4" or so not doing anything or worn down, that the old rotors are the wrong size for the vehicle.
 
So, you are saying that if you put the rotors together, face to face, old and new, that they are the same diameter?? The way your pads are worn, with the top 1/4" or so not doing anything or worn down, that the old rotors are the wrong size for the vehicle.

agreed. the pads shouldn't have that much overhang on the rotor.

those parts are not matched correctly.
hopefully the new parts were are correct.
 

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