My home brew roof rack.

morphious

New member
Wanted something for more space for camping but didn't want a basket attaching to the crossbars and didn't want to spend a ton of money on a good low profile rack. This cost me about $75, light enough for me to install and remove myself, and has flexibility to add attachments to in the future. All that is left is paint and done.

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[MENTION=113467]MN4RNR[/MENTION] I used 3/8" carriage bolts, the size is perfect to slide into the stock crossbar slot on the main rails, and I used nylon spaces.
 
I like your garage doors if they are solid panels pivoting up on arms pulled down by 24” or 30” springs. Our 1969 built homes had those types of doors but most have been converted to Rolling Panels in vertical tracks. I still have my rebuilt old style (attached) but springs are no longer sold in this area for the door. Do you know of a source online for these springs?A Tech told me the doors are still used in CA due to no snow to restrict the door from opening, In North TX since 1973 I have had to move snow 2-3” deep X 6” wide to allow the doors to pivot 2-3 times.

Bottom Line! I rebuilt the doors with 1/8”X1.5” angle iron frames with 3/8” ply to replace the Builder’s Grade. A Grade a Garage Door Opener would damage vs reversing (from force if the door met resistance). Topped off the project by adding overhead storage above the doors (that has been ideal) other doors w/n allow.

Thanks For Any Help!

PS. Great Rack Idea! I’m a Metalworker that led to my metal door frames vs heaver wood.
 

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[MENTION=94371]strathcona[/MENTION] Just for the install.
[MENTION=63377]jow[/MENTION] I just replaced mine and got them at Home Depot.
 
Thanks for the reply. Something must be different about our doors. Your all wood should be heavier. Our local Home Depot carried the correct length but not the correct weight class. Plus, they were designed to pull overhead vs down toward the floor.

Looking closer, I see two arms appearing attached to your “one door” on “one side”. I have one arm, “one arm on each side” lifting the bottom as the top is supported in a track parallel to the ceiling. Do you have tracks in your ceilings?

I do have 5 extra used springs (24” as what broke vs 30” stronger) and only one spring broke last summer since moving in 1973.

Thanks for any info!
 
Are you an electrician? EMT conduit and perforated angle, yeeehaaa what every electrician can't do without! Nice rack, great low budget idea. I have been having the same thoughts, don't like the basket racks mounted to the existing luggage racks and don't wan't to drop the dough on a low profile rack. I do like the basket style though, I may take your idea and build on it. Good job!
 
Are you an electrician? EMT conduit and perforated angle, yeeehaaa what every electrician can't do without! Nice rack, great low budget idea. I have been having the same thoughts, don't like the basket racks mounted to the existing luggage racks and don't wan't to drop the dough on a low profile rack. I do like the basket style though, I may take your idea and build on it. Good job!

Thanks, no not an electrician but around the stuff all the time. Was planning to use Unistrut but I felt it was way to heavy and a bit of over kill for my needs. This is my starting point, I will probably basket it in the future.
 
Are you using Holmes e900 garage door hardware from Home Depot? They were not offered here in North, TX a year ago. I’ll have to ck back because I want my solid doors vs panels.

Thanks Very Much, I’m Gone!
 
I know this is an older thread, but I was hoping to get an update on how this home-brew rack is working out for you.

How much weight have you been able to put on top? Any real road noise? Anything you would do differently?

Am looking at options and this seems like a real possibility. Thanks.
 
[MENTION=138898]jeffryscott[/MENTION] This rack has worked out great and I have easily had 300lbs of camping gear up there traveling about 300 miles with no issues. There is some wind noise from the front bar but I was able to eliminate that by wrapping a bungie cord around it to cause turbulence and eliminate the noise. There really isn't anything different I would have done on this. Here is a picture of the completed rack and the bungie cord (of course black could be used), and a link to my completed thread.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/200953-roof-rack-complete-home-brew-style.html

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