My inexperience = blown front diff

[Bijan]

Once you break a CV its like having that front tire off the ground at all times and your other front tire gets no power. You where in pretty much RWD after that.

You must have been having lots of fun!!! That wash out is what ranks that trail a 4 I believe.

Funny thing is I always try my best to take it easy...the "fun" part to me is looking in my mirrors & seeing other Toyotas. Plus getting out of the city.

Until I get King rezi shocks I don't plan on going too fast ever again over bumps. If I'm ever stuck...I'm getting pulled out.
:lookout:

 

[MtnT4R]

A $125 Bubba Rope will get you out of 95% of jams with MUCH less drama and broken parts. I'd get that and then just wheel the piss out of it as often as you can.

This bubba rope of which you speak sounds pretty awesome. Kinda like the EZ out strap for snowmobiles. Thanks for the heads up! Time to go spend more monies.

Until I get King rezi shocks I don't plan on going too fast ever again over bumps. If I'm ever stuck...I'm getting pulled out.
:lookout:

I wouldn't necessarily want to romp too much just with upgraded shocks; you'll still do a number on your ball joints and control arms. If you really want to rally you'd probably need to ask Snivilous about his long travel suspension build.

 

[nevada]

I was on a trail. Got stuck/wedged in a HUGE dry rut. I managed to get almost out, and then my front left wheel lost all traction. I believe it was airborne. I backed up...nothing. Put it in drive...gunned it a bit too hard...moved only about 2 feet...and then braked hard to stop the wheels from spinning (why did I react this way?) -- and POP....off goes my CV axle, and my 4wd barely worked. All kinds of teeth got chewed.

$700 later...new (used) front diff installed.

I didn't see that coming for sure - but also realize it was mostly my fault. I am curious if I should stop upgrading and learn to wheel properly....or keep building the sh!t out of it so it's Bijan-proof.

I want to keep this forever...and want it to be able to go anywhere (almost) and never get stuck. It is my daily driver but not for long. I plan on getting a Nissan Maxima as my daily.

Should I save for a SAS or TC LT LCAs w/ Tundra axles (TC) + removed sway bars...?

This was me right before I hit my brakes and shit broke...

get a rear locker. it makes things SO much easier.

though, im a bit confused on how/what broke when hitting the brakes. the tire stopping suddenly shouldn't put enough of any kind of pressure on the differential parts. I cant believe the diff has enough mass that a sudden stop will break it. or is it really just THAT fragile?

I would invest in a locker, and some sway bar disconnects for the front. the locker will give you more traction, and the sway bar disconnects will allow you front end to gain more traction and prevent wheel spin in most situations. also a spare cv for the trail is a good idea, and in case you do lift a tire, stack rocks.

this. all the way this.

but, I would wholeheartedly recommend a selectable locker. choose your flavor, as there are a few to choose from.

Everything breaks - even solid axles can break. If you wheel hard enough or neglect your hardware enough it will break. With that out of the way - I would invest in a rear locker. When you add that extra traction in back you will be amazed how much easier wheeling becomes and you can focus on technical instead of speed. I had to learn that lesson in my '87 4R after I almost rolled it because I hit a bad hill too fast. After the locker the hill was a joke.

again, THIS.

 

[cashmoney]

With the CV at full droop, depending on how fast it was spinning I could see it popping coming to a sudden stop.

 

[02SE]

Another suggestion for a rear locker.

You could just crawl through there without spinning a tire.

 

[BrandonF]

Along with what others have said, SAS.

The IFS is always going to hold you back on the trail, and keep you worried about whats going to break next.

Absolutely not true. Unless you're already dual cased and dual locked, the IFS is definitely not your limiting factor.

And judging by the OP's nearly stock vehicle, IFS is going to suit him way better. I wheel with a guy with a SAS'd, dual locked 3rd gen on 35's and theres only been one situation so far where his solid front axle really shone. And even then, it was more just a case of him being able to take a less careful line. The rest of the time, I'm enjoying the smooth IFS ride while he's getting rattled to death by his leaf sprung solid axles.


And +1 for a rear locker. You'll notice a night and day difference in traction and it will help you avoid that excessive wheel spinning

 

[tx_shooter]

Again - I have wheeled both IFS and solid axle in the same vehicle ( '87 4R that got an SAS after a broke axle stub) and a rear locker made all the difference between open 4x4 and locked 4x4. I am currently saving up for a selectable rear locker in my '01 4R so as to fix that open/open issue. Anyone want to buy an '87 4R to help raise funds? :Cry:

 

[GSPRunner]

I would stop buying stuff to build the truck until you're to the point where your truck is limiting your abilities. Honestly, I am not even to the point yet I don't think.

Another thing to consider is that with more experience you'll be able to be a better spotter for the others in your group.



Shout out to [MENTION=82154]GSPRunner[/MENTION] for being too lazy to walk down the hill and spot me, and for this great picture.

Hey...I wasn't being lazy. I got sidetracked! And you're welcome for the pic.

 

[amalik]

just so i'm clear about what happened here..

the OP *wasn't* spinning in free air as he thought, rather the wheel he was spinning had no traction as he pounded the gas, and thus the CV/etc broke as a result, right?

 

[Bijan]

just so i'm clear about what happened here..

the OP *wasn't* spinning in free air as he thought, rather the wheel he was spinning had no traction as he pounded the gas, and thus the CV/etc broke as a result, right?

Not 100% sure. The clamp on my inner CV boot popped off. Spider gears broke inside the front diff. Front was definitely at full droop.

 

[absalom]

What Dfarms said; screw tires, screw lift, screw everything else .... nothing will change your wheeling experience like a locker.

 

[Bijan]

This bubba rope of which you speak sounds pretty awesome. Kinda like the EZ out strap for snowmobiles. Thanks for the heads up! Time to go spend more monies.



I wouldn't necessarily want to romp too much just with upgraded shocks; you'll still do a number on your ball joints and control arms. If you really want to rally you'd probably need to ask Snivilous about his long travel suspension build.

get a rear locker. it makes things SO much easier.

though, im a bit confused on how/what broke when hitting the brakes. the tire stopping suddenly shouldn't put enough of any kind of pressure on the differential parts. I cant believe the diff has enough mass that a sudden stop will break it. or is it really just THAT fragile?

this. all the way this.

but, I would wholeheartedly recommend a selectable locker. choose your flavor, as there are a few to choose from.


again, THIS.

Absolutely not true. Unless you're already dual cased and dual locked, the IFS is definitely not your limiting factor.

And judging by the OP's nearly stock vehicle, IFS is going to suit him way better. I wheel with a guy with a SAS'd, dual locked 3rd gen on 35's and theres only been one situation so far where his solid front axle really shone. And even then, it was more just a case of him being able to take a less careful line. The rest of the time, I'm enjoying the smooth IFS ride while he's getting rattled to death by his leaf sprung solid axles.


And +1 for a rear locker. You'll notice a night and day difference in traction and it will help you avoid that excessive wheel spinning

Thank you fellas for the input.

Now my next questions would be...if I get a locker, I may as well re-gear yes?
My stock gears are 4:10. I would love to upgrade to 35" tires.

4:88 or higher?

And for the locker...ARB all the way or what else off the top of your head should I look up?

If I re-gear I would have to do front and back...just thought of that.

 

[Bijan]

I would invest in a locker, and some sway bar disconnects for the front.

I actually have the quick disco front end links....but I'm too weak to pull the shaft off after the pins are out

 

[D Farms]

Thank you fellas for the input.

Now my next questions would be...if I get a locker, I may as well re-gear yes?
My stock gears are 4:10. I would love to upgrade to 35" tires.

4:88 or higher?

And for the locker...ARB all the way or what else off the top of your head should I look up?

If I re-gear I would have to do front and back...just thought of that.

lol you just broke an axle on 285s and now you want to go bigger? :ybrick:

 

[Bijan]

lol you just broke an axle on 285s and now you want to go bigger? :ybrick:

I thought if I have bigger tires, more surface are would/could be grabbing traction. (just a theory, not being a smart azz)

For the record...the axle was fine. It came apart at the joint, but was easily pushed back into place. (plus a new clamp....THANKS CVJ!)

 

[absalom]

lol you just broke an axle on 285s and now you want to go bigger? :ybrick:

This is EXACTLY what I was thinking. I'd recommend 265's if anything.

OP, here's a great example of why/how lockers are MUCH more advantageous than large tires. (In video, first truck is on 31" snow tires, while the second truck is on 33" mud tires). Video courtesy of Dfarms

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/VagJsnN-Mws" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Bijan]

This is EXACTLY what I was thinking. I'd recommend 265's if anything.

OP, here's a great example of why/how lockers are MUCH more advantageous than large tires. (In video, first truck is on 31" snow tires, while the second truck is on 33" mud tires). Video courtesy of Dfarms

Hey live and learn...watching vid now. Thank you:roll:


edit: wow.... the 2nd vehicle resembled me almost to the T....


I need explanation on how/why that is....

 

[Bijan]

[MENTION=79826]absalom[/MENTION] .... ONLY because of the locker?

 

[absalom]

[MENTION=79826]absalom[/MENTION] .... ONLY because of the locker?

The first truck was front and rear locked. The second truck has open diffs, front and rear. The first truck is actually bone stock, with the exception of the 10 year old stock sized snow tires. The second truck (4runner) is heavily modified.

 

[D Farms]

part of it is that the second truck is on lifted ifs with the sway bar still on, and he also took the wrong line. my truck walked right up this with no tire spin. and yes locked front and rear will get you up an obstacle easier, but it doesnt solve every problem. you were spinning all four tires on a few spots because your low hanging axles were catching on a mound of dirt, and then right after that you crushed your running boards. Thats where the big tires come in handy, all the guys that i wheel with that have 80 series are running 37" tires because the way they have the solid axles set up with the radius arms and other low hanging components need a lot more ground clearance not get bashed up constantly. having more clearance gives you more options for picking different lines, just like having a locker, and having more articulation. [MENTION=120787]Bijan[/MENTION] you also know about airing down your tires right?