My lift and tire plan (after lots of research)

[Weston4Runner]

Hi Guys,

I have spent quite a bit of time researching this great site and Youtube to the point my marriage is in question I would love your feedback on my plan and if I have missed anything. Note, this is my daily driver and I don't plan to rock crawl but do want to go offroad and look good.

Front Suspension (lift 2" from stock):
1) Toytec Boss 2.0 Front Aluma Series Coilovers set at 2" lift from stock
Why? Like the aluminum for MN road salt protection, option to go up to 3" lift in the future, love the red color

Rear Suspension (lift 1.5" from stock):
1) Toytec 2.0 Aluma Series Rear Shocks
2) Toytec 1.5" Poly spacers
3) OME 10mm Rear Trim Spacer for driverside lean

Tire
1) BFG KO2 285/70/17, load index 116Q, load range C1
Why? Reputation, snowflake rating, 13lbs lighter and slightly smaller than Falken Wildpeak AT3W (very close second)

Wheel
1) Keeping stock ORP wheel for at least another year

Other
1) Currently have the Spidertrax spacers, probably need to remove

Thoughts? Concerns? Do I need anything else (i.e diff drop kit, brake lines, UCAs?

Can't wait to see how I did, lay it on me!

 

[Skykomish]

Hi Guys,

I have spent quite a bit of time researching this great site and Youtube to the point my marriage is in question I would love your feedback on my plan and if I have missed anything. Note, this is my daily driver and I don't plan to rock crawl but do want to go offroad and look good.

Front Suspension (lift 2" from stock):
1) Toytec Boss 2.0 Front Aluma Series Coilovers set at 2" lift from stock
Why? Like the aluminum for MN road salt protection, option to go up to 3" lift in the future, love the red color

Rear Suspension (lift 1.5" from stock):
1) Toytec 2.0 Aluma Series Rear Shocks
2) Toytec 1.5" Poly spacers
3) OME 10mm Rear Trim Spacer for driverside lean

Tire
1) BFG KO2 285/70/17, load index 116Q, load range C1
Why? Reputation, snowflake rating, 13lbs lighter and slightly smaller than Falken Wildpeak AT3W (very close second)

Wheel
1) Keeping stock ORP wheel for at least another year

Other
1) Currently have the Spidertrax spacers, probably need to remove

Thoughts? Concerns? Do I need anything else (i.e diff drop kit, brake lines, UCAs?

Can't wait to see how I did, lay it on me!

I assume you mean lift spacers and not wheel spacers. If you're already doing shocks in the rear do the coils too, they're cheap and actually improve performance. Tires shouldn't rub in the rear as long as you're not doing remote-res. Get the front UCAs, you'll probably need the extra room and caster. Personally I'm a fan of 255/80R17 but no guarantees on fit unless you're doing the full 3" right away. You don't need brake lines or a diff drop.

 

[f-it]

The Eibach 2.0 set up is pretty legit too but the set up you have is also solid.

 

[Sully888]

I was going to go Toytec all around (the three inch one). However, I also have a low profile bumper with a winch sitting in my garage. After I bought the toytec lift, i realized the front would not support the extra weight. I had to go with OME front coilovers with medium springs and toytect rears with JBA UCAs. It is all sitting in my garage right now waiting to be installed.

Just keep that in mind if you plan to add weight anywhere.

 

[MAST4R]

Can't wait to see how I did, lay it on me!

I love it that you are open to feedback from strangers with no idea about your needs/wants :trophy:

It may work very well for you depending on needs/use.

But I don't like the suspension. It seems like a looks-first budget suspension.

Because a 2.0 IFP is too weak for the front of a 4R, they compensate with a 700lb spring. What this means is that the spring essentially does all the job. The tiny shock is there to basically survive. It is far too small to control a 700lb spring on rebound. It will work well in low range but at speed/rough roads, ugh.
And they want 999$ for this!

If you want to save money,

1/ you can get a 6112 on 650lb springs for like 700-750 and run circles around this Aluma offroad. Or you can get the standard 550lb springs and enjoy a phenomenal road ride quality.

2/ you can get a Dobinsons twin tube setup or an Eibach.

If you really want the Aluma, they have a so-called "2.5" shock which is really a 2.2 shock body (56 mm) with a piston somewhere in the 50-52 range. True 2.5s have 58-60mm pistons. So Elka advertisement is misleading.

But if the shock is not a 2.5, then it would make some sense that they keep the 700lb spring. Even so, Dobinsons MRA is accurately advertised, costs much less than Elka, and has all the adjustments with an ample selection of proper springs. But it is not aluminum. And it is no longer considered new and fancy.

I guess what I am saying is that with Elka you are paying for aluminum and that's it.

 

[Weston4Runner]

Wow thanks you guys for this feedback. I am surprised to learn about how week the 2.0 is. I will need to keep researching. Again, I was really driven towards the Toytec option first because of the aluminum. Our road salt in MN is awful. Just look at what happened to my TRD exhaust after a couple months this winter. I was hooked on the Bilstein 5100 for all 4 corners prior to ToyTec (I actually thought Toytec used Bilsteins in their coilovers). Welp, anymore feedback or opinions would be great. Thanks again guys.

 

[MAST4R]

My feedback was entirely offroad focused though. And by that I mean doing lots of rougher terrain (of all kinds) at decent speeds. If you go slower/take longer/are willing to put up with rougher ride, you can just as well do with any 2.0 setup. Also, in rocks, a 2.0 will do just fine.

As I said at the start, the 999$ 2.0 Aluma/Elka may be just what you need for your overall conditions.

I guess the direct competitor would be the Fox 2.0 setup which is aluminum as well. In fact, if you order a full set of Fox 2.0 from Accutune, they will valve the rear shocks per your specs. That will eliminate on road harshness (requires resi). So a full Fox 2.0 will cost you around 1700 with Accutune-ed rears. It will limit your front lift to 2.0 in.

Maybe try to get a ride in a Aluma or Elka 2.0 and see how you like it. I react like this to Ironman and Elka because of their excessive spring rates.

 

[Dzldust]

Aluminum looks like crap as well once salt starts working on it

 

[honda250xtitan]

IMO 2.0 is plenty fine for a daily driven street car with mild offroading. Maybe swap the rear spacers for a Wheelers/Eibach 1.5" lift spring. I slight spring rate increase pairs well with the aftermarket shocks.

 

[zippinbye]

Aluminum looks like crap as well once salt starts working on it

But it lasts. And can be media-blasted to look nice again, if you are up for the labor!

 

[Dzldust]

painted or powder coated shocks can be sanded and painted ,it’s not a big deal either way or worth it to go with one over the other