My Rust Plan - feedback needed

[Fezzik]

I wanted to run my rust plan by you all as well as post some pictures to see if anyone had specific concerns/thoughts on any of the areas.
Purchased supplies yesterday and plan on making this a weekend project, I'm in no hurry and should point out that I bought the car in the NE and drove it back to Alabama were we don't typically have to worry about rust. My plan is more focused on the immediate treatment of the existing rust than long term prevention/annual treatment etc.

Plan:

Wire Wheel all existing rust
-purchased a wire wheel and a knotted cup brush
Clean brushed surface with POR degreaser
Use POR metal prep

I bought 2 types of rust converter, so I'd love to hear thoughts on use on or the other or I may try some spots with each type to look at the results
-POR-15
- Permatex



Pictures attached, any thoughts suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Mark_BC]

Sounds like a plan. For inside the frame I'd use something like fluid film.

For the face of the differential housing pumpkin (where the fill plug is and the brackets for the brake cable), that metal rusts differently than all the rest. It "sticks" there rather than flaking off and can be quite a bit deeper than it looks so the POR15 might not perform well there. I'd get out a dremel and grind off all the nooks and crannies until you get to all sound metal. You won't believe the amount of red dust that comes off.

 

[etc.]

Mine includes plugging the holes in the frame with rubber plugs and a heavy dose of fluid film.

 

[tvpierce]

I've used a Permatex product in the past that was kind of milky -- don't know if it's the same as what you've purchased.

If it is, it's essentially the same as POR-15 Metal prep. I believe it creates a zinc coating.

The POR-15 encapsulator (paint) is what sets it apart from other products. At least that's been my experience.

 

[Fezzik]

I've used a Permatex product in the past that was kind of milky -- don't know if it's the same as what you've purchased.

If it is, it's essentially the same as POR-15 Metal prep. I believe it creates a zinc coating.

The POR-15 encapsulator (paint) is what sets it apart from other products. At least that's been my experience.

got it, I was thinking they were both a rust converter, sounds like you could use the POR after using the permatex

Thanks for the suggestions gents, I'm excited to get this project going

 

[Cree]

Need to fix your exhaust before you die. Route it out from under the truck.

 

[BrianK14]

My plan was:
Wire wheel
Corroseal Rust converter
Rustoleum Rust converting primer
Eastwood Chassis paint

Seems to be working well so far

 

[jamarns]

In your last picture, just above the exhaust and to the right, is that a crack in your frame or just cracking rust flakes?

I think I'd have a really thorough look at your frame if it is a crack, might be more work than initially looks. Hopefully not though.

 

[kolelt]

So I only glanced at your post OP. From expierence this is what I can recommend.

Wire wheel the crap out of ANYTHING YOU CAN REACH. And you should be able to reach a lot of areas. Please wear good SAFETY GLASSES.

So this is how I fixed my rust.

Wire wheeled
Degreased it with brake cleaner.
Primer or rust convert or. Although I think rust converters are just BS.
Then VHT chassis paint.
Por15 rocker panels and under body.

For inside frame. Power wash it.
Eastwood interframe coating
Fluid film or Eastwood heavy duty grease for inside frame and outside frame.

 

[Beaumont67]

I'm not a fan of rust encapsulate products (POR15), that needs rust to aid in adhesion.

If the job is to small or inconvient to sand blast the rust, down to bare metal:
I use wire wheels &/or a $20 deburing tool (aka small end mill type) on a DeWalt drill.

Next coat de-rusted metal, with Permatex Extend / converts rust to a phos. coating. https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-8-Ou...rd_wg=adtJ7&psc=1&refRID=EGBNQ4K3KAG9P4MX8BTS
Epoxy prime is best, to seal out moisture, followed by a enamel-oil base metal paint. www.southernpolyurethanes.com/
- below trailer hitch, was severely rusted / the 3/8" diameter deburring end mil, worked great
Finally - spray undercarriage with Fluid Film wax-oil.

 

[ZionXIX]

Safety is a must with those wire wheels. The metal wires will fling off and embed themselves into your skin. You wont feel them until you try to move and realize there are 20 little metal spikes embedded through your shirt and into your stomach. Otherwise they are very effective.

 

[Mgizler]

I would Wire wheel all the heavy rust off and put the POR-15 over it. Multiple light coats and it will hold up for a very long time.

Cant help you on the Inside of the frame since I have never done that.

 

[Fezzik]

thanks for all the replies, I'll probably get started with the wire wheeling this afternoon. I plan on taking detailed pictures as I go

 

[Fezzik]

In your last picture, just above the exhaust and to the right, is that a crack in your frame or just cracking rust flakes?

I think I'd have a really thorough look at your frame if it is a crack, might be more work than initially looks. Hopefully not though.

Thanks for looking out, I crawled under last night and verified it's just s rust flake. Not a cracked frame

 

[Fezzik]

just an update on the progress, spent a couple of hours on Sunday with a wire wheel and mad some great progress. As noted above the "pumpkin" has some crevasses that are better with a smaller tool. About 75% of my way through the day I unfortunately found some frame rot that I missed when I was purchasing the car. Will be assessing the frame in its entirety when I get some time this weekend. Otherwise I was on cloud 9 with how the rust removal was coming, this is without any metal prep or clean up, just step 1 wire wheel

 

[Mark_BC]

Interesting how the salt rots different things on different 4runners differently. On both of mine the frame is OK, just minor surface flaking that is unsightly but not too deep. But the differential pumpkins rotted real bad, one poked all the way through. I'd rather be in my situation because it's easier to replace an axle than a frame! Guess I got lucky, or maybe different road salt in different areas attacks different parts preferentially?

 

[Scramble]

The amount of misinformation in this thread is mind boggling.

Rustoleum rust converters do not work. $4 a can vs Eastwood's $20...Really?
Rustoleum regular primers & paints are fine for BS stuff.

POR 15 is a rust encapsulator not a rust converter.
POR 15 will not stick to painted or bare metal surfaces, it only sticks to rust.
POR15 only works well when you use THEIR de-greaser & metal prep.
Eastwood works with any de-greaser & doesn't need a "metal-prep" step.

So, you will need to use 2 products on your frame & axle. That is a waste of money to me because POR15 is expensive.

Painted surfaces without rust do not need to be wire wheeled, just hit it with 220 grit sandpaper so the top coat will adhere.

POR 15 is a good product but Eastwood's Rust Converter adheres to bare metal, painted metal, convert's rust and acts like a primer for a top coat.

Use Eastwood Internal Frame Coating for the inside of the frame. They rot from the inside out, not outside in. You need to clean out the frame with a pressure washer. All dirt & rust flakes must be removed & dry before spraying otherwise you're wasting money.

If you spray fluid film or oil in the frame or on the undercarriage you'll never get a rust converter to stick in the future. Unless you want to do hours & hours of de-greasing.

Anything that you wire wheeled to bare metal will need a self etching primer, primer & top coat.

Do not use cheap paint like Rustoleum on the frame & axle. Use a strong Chassis Paint Top Coat that resist's rock chips like Eastwood, VHT, POR15 etc.

This job is something you want to do once so do it right the first time, don't cut corners & don't cheap out on material.

 

[Mark_BC]

The amount of misinformation in this thread is mind boggling.

Rustoleum rust converters do not work. $4 a can vs Eastwood's $20...Really?
Rustoleum regular primers & paints are fine for BS stuff.

POR 15 is a rust encapsulator not a rust converter.
POR 15 will not stick to painted or bare metal surfaces, it only sticks to rust.
POR15 only works well when you use THEIR de-greaser & metal prep.
Eastwood works with any de-greaser & doesn't need a "metal-prep" step.

So, you will need to use 2 products on your frame & axle. That is a waste of money to me because POR15 is expensive.

Painted surfaces without rust do not need to be wire wheeled, just hit it with 220 grit sandpaper so the top coat will adhere.

POR 15 is a good product but Eastwood's Rust Converter adheres to bare metal, painted metal, convert's rust and acts like a primer for a top coat.

Use Eastwood Internal Frame Coating for the inside of the frame. They rot from the inside out, not outside in. You need to clean out the frame with a pressure washer. All dirt & rust flakes must be removed & dry before spraying otherwise you're wasting money.

If you spray fluid film or oil in the frame or on the undercarriage you'll never get a rust converter to stick in the future. Unless you want to do hours & hours of de-greasing.

Anything that you wire wheeled to bare metal will need a self etching primer, primer & top coat.

Do not use cheap paint like Rustoleum on the frame & axle. Use a strong Chassis Paint Top Coat that resist's rock chips like Eastwood, VHT, POR15 etc.

This job is something you want to do once so do it right the first time, don't cut corners & don't cheap out on material.

I used Rust Trap by SEM. It gets one good review, that's all it has on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/SEM-45504-Black-Rust-Trap/dp/B0186N9MPQ

Maybe that was a good clue to be wary of it if it only has one review LOL. It is urethane based and says it goes on rusted and bare sanded steel so what I did was grind off the rust down to the pitting surface with rust pits / bare steel showing. Then I painted over this. Any areas without rust I just sanded the existing paint to roughen and painted over this.

You recommend for inside the frame to use Eastwood internal frame coating which is like a paint correct? My concern with using a paint inside the frame is it may just go on over some big flakes of rust and not penetrate through, then you could just be trapping salty water in there forever. At least with an oily product it can penetrate into cracks and you can re-apply it. Do you think this is warranted?

 

[Scramble]

I used Rust Trap by SEM. It gets one good review, that's all it has on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/SEM-45504-Black-Rust-Trap/dp/B0186N9MPQ

Maybe that was a good clue to be wary of it if it only has one review LOL. It is urethane based and says it goes on rusted and bare sanded steel so what I did was grind off the rust down to the pitting surface with rust pits / bare steel showing. Then I painted over this. Any areas without rust I just sanded the existing paint to roughen and painted over this.

You recommend for inside the frame to use Eastwood internal frame coating which is like a paint correct? My concern with using a paint inside the frame is it may just go on over some big flakes of rust and not penetrate through, then you could just be trapping salty water in there forever. At least with an oily product it can penetrate into cracks and you can re-apply it. Do you think this is warranted?

SEM makes great stuff but I dont know about their Rust converters. Only 1 review because it's expensive! LOL Eastwood has thousands of reviews all over the internet. The best place to read about rust & body work is car restoration site's not 4x4 sites or Amazon.

Rust flakes are a problem & thats why I recommend a pressure washer. I lost track of how many times I pressure washed the inside of my frame last year. Last Sat I did both rails twice & was still getting flakes out. I'm just about ready to spray the internal frame coating. The nozzle at the end of the hose sprays 360* & the paint comes out as a liquid so I'm not worried about it not getting into nooks & crannies. I might even do 2 coats. I think I'm going to put painters tape over the frame holes to keep all of the paint in & stop some overspray.

 

[NVAGVUP]

Replace Rear Diff Cover on 3rd Gen

As long as you're in there, Replace Rear Diff Cover on 3rd Gen with a Barnes 4WD 1/4 Steel plate cover.

Toyo cover will eventually leak due to thin cover metal. Barnes covers are perfect fit, add oil capacity and offer steel plate protection.

Do frame welding at same time, if any.

look up "Rear Diff Rust" threads. did mine, cover is $100, welding & install cost me $300.

Also >Amsoil HD< goes on fluid ut dries to a wax like finish as a final cover over rust inhibitor/prep/primer/paint. lasts several years in MAINE.

U Have to get inside the frame protected once rust is neutralized inside.