My Rust Plan - feedback needed

[TheDurk]

The amount of misinformation in this thread is mind boggling.

Rustoleum rust converters do not work. $4 a can vs Eastwood's $20...Really?
Rustoleum regular primers & paints are fine for BS stuff.

POR 15 is a rust encapsulator not a rust converter.
POR 15 will not stick to painted or bare metal surfaces, it only sticks to rust.
POR15 only works well when you use THEIR de-greaser & metal prep.
Eastwood works with any de-greaser & doesn't need a "metal-prep" step.

So, you will need to use 2 products on your frame & axle. That is a waste of money to me because POR15 is expensive.

Painted surfaces without rust do not need to be wire wheeled, just hit it with 220 grit sandpaper so the top coat will adhere.

POR 15 is a good product but Eastwood's Rust Converter adheres to bare metal, painted metal, convert's rust and acts like a primer for a top coat.

Use Eastwood Internal Frame Coating for the inside of the frame. They rot from the inside out, not outside in. You need to clean out the frame with a pressure washer. All dirt & rust flakes must be removed & dry before spraying otherwise you're wasting money.

If you spray fluid film or oil in the frame or on the undercarriage you'll never get a rust converter to stick in the future. Unless you want to do hours & hours of de-greasing.

Anything that you wire wheeled to bare metal will need a self etching primer, primer & top coat.

Do not use cheap paint like Rustoleum on the frame & axle. Use a strong Chassis Paint Top Coat that resist's rock chips like Eastwood, VHT, POR15 etc.

This job is something you want to do once so do it right the first time, don't cut corners & don't cheap out on material.

This (the bold part--I agree with the rest) is overstating it. Here is what the POR15 data sheet says about painted surfaces:

NOTE - PREVIOUSLY COATED SURFACES: Maintenance
painting will frequently not permit complete removal
of old coatings prior to repainting a particular surface.
Please recognize that any surface preparation, short of
removal of all old coatings, may compromise the service life
of the new coating system. Check compatibility of previously
painted surfaces using a test patch with the coating.
POR-15® works best on properly prepared surfaces free of
previous coatings.

Bare metal is just fine for POR15 if degrease and prep is done--elsewhere in same doc.

http://qr.por15.com/QR-assets/downloads/POR15/POR15-Description.pdf

Last summer, I replaced my frame with a used frame in good condition. I wirewheeled all loose rust and then did the full degrease-prep-POR15-Top Coat process over the whole frame. The coating bonded perfectly well to the entire frame including the old paint and has survived its first winter completely intact. The POR15 coating is amazingly hard and looks like it was baked on. So I'd say 15+ year old Toyota factory paint in good condition is a compatible surface.

I agree with the Eastwood Internal after pressure washing which is what I did on the inside. Of course, this was all a lot easier with the frame off the truck. The whole thing is described in the link in my sig. I'm going to take some one year after pics if I ever get some time and good weather simultaneously, which at the moment doesn't look good thanks to a crappy NJ spring and a lot of things needing to get done.

 

[Cree]

As long as you're in there, Replace Rear Diff Cover on 3rd Gen with a Barnes 4WD 1/4 Steel plate cover.

Toyo cover will eventually leak due to thin cover metal. Barnes covers are perfect fit, add oil capacity and offer steel plate protection.

Do frame welding at same time, if any.

look up "Rear Diff Rust" threads. did mine, cover is $100, welding & install cost me $300.

Also >Amsoil HD< goes on fluid ut dries to a wax like finish as a final cover over rust inhibitor/prep/primer/paint. lasts several years in MAINE.

U Have to get inside the frame protected once rust is neutralized inside.

IF you go with the Barnes cover, and I can't stress this enough, REMOVE the dang rear, disassemble it and have it done by a certified welder who remembers to PRELOAD the housing. I had it done on my SR5. We forgot to preload. I have a third member sitting here with a destroyed pinion bearing caused by a warped housing now.

 

[Anewman420]

Hello all! First post here, been lurking on the forums and particularly this thread as I'm looking to clean up and coat my frame before the New England winter hits. Can anybody tell me if Black Star rust converter is a quality product, and if so what coating paint would I be best off using? I will post pictures of my frame in the morning when it is light out so maybe you guys can advise me on what I need to pay the most attention to etc. Hope I'm posting this in an acceptable place, this seems like a great community looking forward to being a part of it!
1999 4Runner SR5, 160k bone stock


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[kolelt]

For the amount of money you pay for the Sonoran steel bump stops. You'd think they be powder coated or painted better.

I useD por15 on none rusted surfaces. I used their prep chemicals. And read the directions very carefully on how to use it. If you fallow their directions. Por15 will hold on clean metal. Slightly scuffed. But I recommend going over it with a Bedliner. I used por15 on the outside/under the truck rocker panel area. And he back of the truck. Under the trunk area where the spare goes. It's been holding up great. Even from power washing it. I had some rust. But mostly clean metal.

Also, you need to use por15 in a really HUMID DAY. That's how it cures. .

 

[Ron Burgandy]

chassis saver.

 

[vukos]

About 75% of my way through the day I unfortunately found some frame rot that I missed when I was purchasing the car. Will be assessing the frame in its entirety when I get some time this weekend.

Where was this section of rot located?

 

[repo]

Interesting how the salt rots different things on different 4runners differently. On both of mine the frame is OK, just minor surface flaking that is unsightly but not too deep. But the differential pumpkins rotted real bad, one poked all the way through. I'd rather be in my situation because it's easier to replace an axle than a frame! Guess I got lucky, or maybe different road salt in different areas attacks different parts preferentially?

I think it's humidity. They put down a lot of salt here but the winter is extremely dry and often windy so it doesn't stay wet long.

 

[Skibber]

I'm in the process of finishing up the same job on mine. I had that same section (what appears to be the passenger side near the muffler) rotted out as well. Hammer out the corroded section and grind away until you get to good metal. I ordered up a 3 or 4ft length of .125 x 3" A36 flat steel from https://www.onlinemetals.com, cut it to fit the area I needed to cover, then had a local shop weld the patch on.

I then did the inside of the frame with 3x cans of Eastwood's internal frame coating Eastwood Internal Frame Coating 14oz Aerosol

After hitting everything else with some flap discs on the angle grinder and wire wheel for some tight spots, I applied a couple thin coats of Eastwood's extreme chassis black primer...brushing on the flat surfaces and spraying other areas that were harder to get to with the brush. I will finish with their satin black finish paint.

So far it's looking almost new and should protect it for the next 150k miles. It's a labor intensive job, but totally worth it. Since I'm in the rust belt I plan to maintain by using fluid film before and after the winters.

 

[A2toHgt]

I'm in the process of finishing up the same job on mine. I had that same section (what appears to be the passenger side near the muffler) rotted out as well. Hammer out the corroded section and grind away until you get to good metal. I ordered up a 3 or 4ft length of .125 x 3" A36 flat steel from https://www.onlinemetals.com, cut it to fit the area I needed to cover, then had a local shop weld the patch on.

I then did the inside of the frame with 3x cans of Eastwood's internal frame coating Eastwood Internal Frame Coating 14oz Aerosol

After hitting everything else with some flap discs on the angle grinder and wire wheel for some tight spots, I applied a couple thin coats of Eastwood's extreme chassis black primer...brushing on the flat surfaces and spraying other areas that were harder to get to with the brush. I will finish with their satin black finish paint.

So far it's looking almost new and should protect it for the next 150k miles. It's a labor intensive job, but totally worth it. Since I'm in the rust belt I plan to maintain by using fluid film before and after the winters.

You got a good welder in Chicago you can recommend?

 

[Skibber]

Sorry for the late reply. I used Derek's Auto Body in Des Plaines
https://www.yelp.com/biz/dereks-auto-body-shop-des-plaines