Mystery of the rear flex clunk; chapter 2

[jross20]

Alright guys, I thought that I fixed my rear end... But apparently not. I thought it was the sway bar links, but I have longer ones installed and the sound is still there. the weirdest thing to me is that the sound always happen every single time.

Recap: When the rear flexes out there is a loud, not so great sounding metal clunking noise. Almost like something is sliding past something or popping free, hard to explain it exactly.

Some people have suggested that maybe the shocks are too long for the springs, but at the same time some other people said that was nonsense... For reference, I have tundra 5100s with ome 906's.

Any ideas? I really don't want to break shit, and until I figure out what it is I'm not going to go on any trails, which sucks...

 

[brillo_76]

Alright guys, I thought that I fixed my rear end... But apparently not. I thought it was the sway bar links, but I have longer ones installed and the sound is still there. the weirdest thing to me is that the sound always happen every single time.



Recap: When the rear flexes out there is a loud, not so great sounding metal clunking noise. Almost like something is sliding past something or popping free, hard to explain it exactly.



Some people have suggested that maybe the shocks are too long for the springs, but at the same time some other people said that was nonsense... For reference, I have tundra 5100s with ome 906's.



Any ideas? I really don't want to break shit, and until I figure out what it is I'm not going to go on any trails, which sucks...

Is your frame rusty? If so, verify your shock and upper shock plate didn't come loose. I had that happen it it was banging the lower side of my body.

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[jross20]

Is your frame rusty? If so, verify your shock and upper shock plate didn't come loose. I had that happen it it was banging the lower side of my body.

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No frame rust that I can see. I will get under there today and see if anything is loose. I'll try to get some pictures as well

 

[frank_socal]

another possibility is the Drive shaft hitting the fuel tank skid plate. On mine the drive shaft was hitting at the slip yoke, broke the grease zerk. I plugged it with a M6 1.0x8mm screw (been a while, not sure on the size), used a small sledge hammer to bend the skid plate a bit and only install a zerk when I grease the u-joint.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

You may have the rear lower control arms with the big metal thing welded to the front bushing housing.


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[alexnumberone]

another possibility is the Drive shaft hitting the fuel tank skid plate. On mine the drive shaft was hitting at the slip yoke, broke the grease zerk. I plugged it with a M6 1.0x8mm screw (been a while, not sure on the size), used a small sledge hammer to bend the skid plate a bit and only install a zerk when I grease the u-joint.

This. I installed 8 wraps and suddenly every time I made a hard right turn I would get a metal clunk. Thought it was my springs not being seated correctly, "fixed" it and tried again, no change. Looked at my drive shaft and you can see where the weight used to balance the drive shaft was hitting my gas tank skid... Took a hammer and chisel to it and bend it back and the noise went away.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

What shifted or changed that became a problem?


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[brillo_76]

Has the rig been lifted or modified in a way that changes the angles of things. Mostly those coil shock plates dont come loose unless the frame is very rusted. If not in the rust belt I doubt that's it.

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[jross20]

another possibility is the Drive shaft hitting the fuel tank skid plate. On mine the drive shaft was hitting at the slip yoke, broke the grease zerk. I plugged it with a M6 1.0x8mm screw (been a while, not sure on the size), used a small sledge hammer to bend the skid plate a bit and only install a zerk when I grease the u-joint.

I can't tell that there is any damage to the shaft or that skid. I will check again though.

You may have the rear lower control arms with the big metal thing welded to the front bushing housing.


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What

This. I installed 8 wraps and suddenly every time I made a hard right turn I would get a metal clunk. Thought it was my springs not being seated correctly, "fixed" it and tried again, no change. Looked at my drive shaft and you can see where the weight used to balance the drive shaft was hitting my gas tank skid... Took a hammer and chisel to it and bend it back and the noise went away.

What did you bend? The skid?

What shifted or changed that became a problem?

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What?

Has the rig been lifted or modified in a way that changes the angles of things. Mostly those coil shock plates dont come loose unless the frame is very rusted. If not in the rust belt I doubt that's it.

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Just 906 coils with the tundra 5100 shocks. Extended swaybar links. Beefy lower trailing arms. But nothing else to change it I believe.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

On the 96 and I think 97 and 98 the front bushing hole had metal welded to it and it’s not on the newer ones. I thought that that piece of metal was removed for noise.


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[brillo_76]

On the 96 and I think 97 and 98 the front bushing hole had metal welded to it and it’s not on the newer ones. I thought that that piece of metal was removed for noise.


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My 97 has that metal on it. My 98 does not. I thought possible only the manuals has those on it. However it seems that it was in the autos too. I take a picture of that metal tommorrow. So folks will know what you are talking about.

It looks to me like it's a travel limiter. I have to check more into that.

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[JohnOfTheJungle]

Check to make sure your rear upper links are tight. One of mine was loose after I did my lift and it would clunk.


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[brillo_76]

I can't tell that there is any damage to the shaft or that skid. I will check again though.



What



What did you bend? The skid?



What?



Just 906 coils with the tundra 5100 shocks. Extended swaybar links. Beefy lower trailing arms. But nothing else to change it I believe.

So more or less you got say 2 inch more clearance on suspension then stock.

Those shock ends that go through the coil shock plate are not longer the the stock ones??

Do you have clearance between them and your floor of your 4 runner?


I really cant see coils or shocks doing a slight suspension lift doing it unless the top of the shock is too long.

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[jross20]

So more or less you got say 2 inch more clearance on suspension then stock.

Those shock ends that go through the coil shock plate are not longer the the stock ones??

Do you have clearance between them and your floor of your 4 runner?


I really cant see coils or shocks doing a slight suspension lift doing it unless the top of the shock is too long.

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I apologize I don't quite follow. Are you saying the tops of the rear shocks may be too long? Like th bolts?

 

[deves2]

the 906 coils are about an inch to SHORT and when you flex they will come loose at the top of the spring area. I had the same problem....took me awhile to figure it out. Take the plastic cone that is in the top of the spring and fasten it to the frame. You can either screw it around the flange at the top to the frame or what I did was put a bolt up threw the plastic cone and slide a flat piece of bar stock with a hole in the center above the frame and bolt the cone to the frame. This way when the 906 drops down when flexing it stays in alignment due to the cone not being able to move and the is NO popping of metal. the alternate fix is get a ome891 or equivalent length spring. trust me on this....

 

[brillo_76]

I apologize I don't quite follow. Are you saying the tops of the rear shocks may be too long? Like th bolts?

I was just trying to find your metal clunk ...:] It seems another user may have a solution for you.

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[jross20]

the 906 coils are about an inch to SHORT and when you flex they will come loose at the top of the spring area. I had the same problem....took me awhile to figure it out. Take the plastic cone that is in the top of the spring and fasten it to the frame. You can either screw it around the flange at the top to the frame or what I did was put a bolt up threw the plastic cone and slide a flat piece of bar stock with a hole in the center above the frame and bolt the cone to the frame. This way when the 906 drops down when flexing it stays in alignment due to the cone not being able to move and the is NO popping of metal. the alternate fix is get a ome891 or equivalent length spring. trust me on this....

Okay, so I feel better hearing this from someone who has 906's.
Do you have any photos of your fix? Trying to get an idea of what you're talking about. Wish I had a 3d model or something...haha

Pm me if you have any photos, or more advise.. thanks man

 

[brillo_76]

My 97 has that metal on it. My 98 does not. I thought possible only the manuals has those on it. However it seems that it was in the autos too. I take a picture of that metal tommorrow. So folks will know what you are talking about.

It looks to me like it's a travel limiter. I have to check more into that.

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Here is that metal chuck on the lower rear control arm.

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[jross20]

Here is that metal chuck on the lower rear control arm.

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Wow I've never seen that. I don't believe that I have that anymore as I am running rokman lower arms

 

[deves2]

jross20 PM sent if you have more questions just yell!