NAPA suspension parts

[LeeMajors]

Hey all--

Think I'm dealing with a little rear sag--original springs with 192k-ish, along with some harsh ride characteristics.

I know OEM is canon around here, but I also know NAPA tends to have good rep with other auto parts (brakes, etc).

Anyone have experience with their coils etc? This is a highway warrior rig with high yearly mileage, nearly zero offroading.

 

[thegipper]

I would just buy some OME 906's for your rear. It will totally eliminate your sag, jack up the rear about an inch and half (maybe more). Keep in mind the 906's are a "firm" spring though.

They are great springs if you normally have a decent amount of weight in the back like tools and such. They are also excellent springs for towing, I can put my boat/trailer on and it barely brings the back down.

A set of 906's runs about $160 bucks.

 

[thegipper]

I realized I never really answered your question. I would not put Napa springs in your truck. Only use known good aftermarket springs like OME or Toyota springs or you'll be replacing them again in a couple years.

 

[NegroTundra]

Never purchased NAPA springs, but have purchased plenty of other parts from them (tie rods, steering racks, various ball joints, rotors, pads etc). Always been pleased with their performance and longevity. Depending on price, and given your vehicle usage, I wouldn't hesitate to try them out. Let us know how they hold up if you do.

 

[TheDurk]

You also have to be careful about height matching your front. They might just make one set for all four wheels to cover all 3G years, and you risk a rake (maybe reverse) if you only do two (like with Monroe.)

 

[Mr.Rick]

I have used both NAPA and OEM parts in the suspension department. In my personal experience, and others may have different opinions on it, OEM will always be better, that's why its more expensive and why they generally tend to last longer. I think it also all depends on how you use your vehicle if you wheel hard and have a tendency to break things go aftermarket, CV joints are a perfect example, if you know you will destroy them, buy NAPA and get the lifetime warranty and just keep swapping them out. If it's your 3rd vehicle and sees 15k miles a year, go OEM and that may be the last time you have to replace the part. There are certain things that I go OEM with and others that I will go with aftermarket. Timing belts I go OEM because the price point isn't much different to use Toyota parts and they last, in some cases well beyond 100k miles. Ball joints, I go OEM because "Hey, I gamble with my money not my life." I've seen OEM ones last 250k miles, I've seen NAPA ones fail at 15k miles. Is this always the case? No? But it all comes down to what you do with your rig, what your budget looks like and your preferences.

 

[IsaiahC]

The ole' OEM vs. parts store debate. Good luck getting an experience-based opinion hwell: Most of your replies here will be philosophical or the information will be cherry-picked.
To respond to your post, I wouldn't hesitate to buy napa suspension parts, but there are other after-market or used OEM parts that might serve you better for a similar price point (OME 906/used 99' coils).

 

[JayRolla]

Here is my opinion. This is coming from a young poor 15 year old kid that had a Bronco for offroading and a Talon for speed. I barely had enough money for gas so I know about buying cheap auto part store parts. I have gone through multiple auto part store parts believing in the life time warranty. I will just swap it if it fails. After swapping parts over and over, getting them to give me replacement, getting alignments I found avoiding all parts store parts has been the best bet and has had me in the garage a lot less.

Fast forward near 20 years later and I will never touch a part store part unless its the last resort and its just temp till I can get an OEM part.

Parts can be lumped into 3 groups.

Chinese cheap parts - the cheapest part at the parts store or the parts you find super cheap on amazon and ebay. Absolute trash.

High end part store - This is the mid to high end priced part at the parts store. They tend to last longer but are hit and miss. Some fail and some do not.

OEM - Best quality, always looks better made, higher quality just by looking at the part. way lower fail rate compared to the other groups.

 

[LeeMajors]

Thanks y'all. I think I'm kind of caught in the nexus of wanting to save money and accepting that most advice here is for offroaders. I don't really want to spent 500$ doing all four corners with OEM, but maybe I should just suck it up and make it happen.

I'd just seen lots of positive reviews of NAPA aftermarket stuff in the past and wondered if it extended to coils.

I'd never use it for vital pieces like ball joints, or risk it in high acuity jobs like TB/WP, but suspension seems like the place most-often with satisfactory aftermarket results.

 

[reelamin]

Here is what I would suggest first, determine what it is you are going to be doing with or what needs you have. Second, USE THE SEARCH FEATURE WITH YOUR NEEDS/WANTS! There is a ton of stuff on here about all kinds of suspension set ups from OEM to FRANKENSTEIN set ups. I literally put in a stupid amount of time researching, data collecting, and PM members to get exact results of their suspension changes.

I think there are OEM parts I would never replace with anything else, and there are lots of parts I would. NAPA and all other stores contracts all of their stuff out as you well know, so find out who makes the particular part for them. NAPA's warranty is great and they back it up...just keep your receipts.

Based on my needs/wants I ended up with Bilstein 5100's front and rear (See below) with OME 906 rear and OME 880 fronts. I only have about 500 miles on the rear (waiting on the front install for alignment date) but they are definitely stiff. Not sure it it is the springs or the shocks and I'm not putting out any judgments on them yet.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/231646-minimalist-265-75-16-tire-clearance-solution.html

BILSTEIN CUSTOMER SERVICE SUCKS! I don't care if they are a great shock or not as there are lots of good shocks available. Yes, I might be a little over the top on this....but they F'n pissed me off with their BS. Then I search and find they have a pattern of crappy customer service and standing behind their products This is a Bilstein site (IMO) and I never subscribe to the acceptance of tolerating anything but expected parts and premium service with premium products. Whew...BS BILSTEIN rant over for the moment.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/233166-front-bilstein-5100s-no-grommets-washers.html

 

[LittleCaesar]

2wd correct? I'd just buy some Moog stock springs and call it finished.

How much are their (NAPA) springs?

What is the condition of the shocks?

https://www.amazon.com/Moog-81043-Coil-Spring-Set/dp/B0035R28M8

Fronts FYI:https://www.amazon.com/Moog-81092-C...automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

 

[LeeMajors]

Here is what I would suggest first, determine what it is you are going to be doing with or what needs you have. Second, USE THE SEARCH FEATURE WITH YOUR NEEDS/WANTS!

Thanks for the info and thoughts (seriously), but I did search and could not find info specifically germane to the NAPA coils front/rear which is why I asked the targeted question.

2wd correct? I'd just buy some Moog stock springs and call it finished.

How much are their (NAPA) springs?

What is the condition of the shocks?

https://www.amazon.com/Moog-81043-Coil-Spring-Set/dp/B0035R28M8

Fronts FYI:https://www.amazon.com/Moog-81092-C...automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

Yup, 2wd. I replaced both front/rear struts/shocks about a year ago with KYBs. I was thinking of doing coils then, but they seemed to have worn evenly at that point with measuring. While dicking around underneath, the rear seems to have edged a bit closer to the bump stop so I'm thinking maybe the rough ride isn't just normal and with 192+ on OEM it probably needs some refreshing.

Note also that I don't tow, I occasionally carry some heavy stuff (pavers, concrete, etc) but that's pretty rare, and with my bunker gear and a basic set of tools my normal highway load is probably <60lbs in the rear.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Moog or even the NAPA ones (may be Moog) would probably work just fine. Pretty cheap, and better than what is back there now. Start with replacing the rears, replacing the front as need be. The LXs will like the refresher.

 

[reelamin]

Thanks for the info and thoughts (seriously), but I did search and could not find info specifically germane to the NAPA coils

Confused as to why your ride is rougher....they usually get softer and softer. Mine had 256K and I commonly will have 100-200lb in the back, and I had no marks at all on bump stops. What does it measure center of hub to bottom of fender? You wont gain any height back, but you will gain compression resistance and some ride quality back with air bags....for under a $100.

I put MOOG on my last 95...gained back to stock height and rode great with cheap Monroe shocks for several years. I would gamble you will get the same results from NAPA.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I don't doubt they would ride great, anything is better than old tired suspension parts.

The question is how long do they last? I'm currently riding on KYB shocks and cheap Raybestos coils front & rear. Are they good for now? Yes, a little bit stiff for road but MUCH better than the old tired suspension I replaced. Will it wear out? I'm sure it will but it's way better than it was before.

I couldn't fork out $150 per strut for Toyota parts or $100 a coil, just way too pricey.

Side note: if you haven't, replace the sway bar bushings & end link bushings too!

 

[thegipper]

Will the Napa coils be better than your old worn coils? Of course. Will they last as long as toyota or a good aftermarket spring like OME, probably not.

If saving like 40 bucks is a necessity, then so be it. Otherwise, buy some better parts. At least, that's how I see it.

I've bought Napa parts in the past with mixed results. I have ok luck with their brake parts but I had a premium hub/wheel bearing fail in 3 months on my grand prix.

I buy plenty of parts store stuff but there is a time and place for it. Some things are just worth the money for a better quality part.

 

[LeeMajors]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. You've given me a lot to think about.

 

[tvpierce]

Don't know about springs, but the last time I bought NAPA struts (15 years ago), they were Monroe parts in a NAPA box. Not recommended.

 

[LeeMajors]

Update--decided to shell out for OEM for 80$ apiece on Camelback with free shipping. Local dealerships wanted 110 and 130 each. Ridic!

So, I looked up numbers and it seems both rear coils are the same parts number, but front coils have different for left/right? Is that correct?

Ordered 2 of 48231-35190.

 

[bramuno]

Update--decided to shell out for OEM for 80$ apiece on Camelback with free shipping. Local dealerships wanted 110 and 130 each. Ridic!

So, I looked up numbers and it seems both rear coils are the same parts number, but front coils have different for left/right? Is that correct?

Ordered 2 of 48231-35190.

A lot of people don't know this but the 3rd gens lean to one side. In newer gens of Toyota trucks/SUVs, Toyota corrects this by using different springs with different rates/lengths in all 4 corners. If you buy OE springs, you will be lower on one side (I believe the passenger side is lower). When you buy OEM rear springs, one is longer than the other to level out from side to side. 906s give 2" lift with a higher rate, 890s are supposed to give 3" lift with a lower rate. Just remember, if you don't lift the front, if you get OEM springs, you will end up being higher in the rear.