Need advice regarding brakes/suspension/CV boots

[Red]

Hey Guys,

I have a few things that need to be done, all of which are kind of important. I'd like to know which of these should be done at the same time to save labor costs.

Here is what needs attention.

1. brakes are weak and starting to squeek
2. was told by Mr. Lube that my "Inner CV Boots" are torn up.
3. torsion bars cranked - I want to replace with BJ spacers and new shocks.

A few other questions I have are would my cranked torsion bars have anything to do with the ripped CV boots? and if my CV boots are ripped, what other problems might be a result of that? I might as well do inner and outer boots at the same time, correct?

Anyways, would I save money doing all of these at once? I appreciate your guys input, thanks in advance.

 

[n8buddy]

if you have the money, do it all at the same time as they all are in the same area. Have a look yourself to see if your CV boots are ripped. They are the rubber accordion looking covers on your CV shafts, which connect to your wheels. If they are ripped, there is a chance you CV joints themselves are done for, depending on how long the joints have been exposed. The cranked torsion bars are not likely to have caused ripped boots (unless they are REALLY cranked), but it does increase the chance of your CV joints going bad.

 

[hickory]

what first,

Brakes are always important. Rebuit CV shafts are slightly more expensive than the cost of boots but I don't know if there any good. The tosion bars being cranked will raise front end and put more wear on the boots. How can you tell your bars are cranked? Doing the work urself?

 

[Red]

I'll try to do the brakes and the boots for sure. I hope the CV's arent done for, this truck is quickly becoming a money pit and not because of mods or upgrades but just general maintenance.

I know the CV's are cranked to match the lift in the rear because the previous owner did it. I would never have done it this way but I cant afford to fix it.

Ill get the money together and maybe do it all and get it over with and then after I do that, whats going to need attention next? haha it never ends on these old vehicles.

 

[n8buddy]

this truck is quickly becoming a money pit and not because of mods or upgrades but just general maintenance.

If it makes you feel any better, I just spent $3,600 on repairs, including front tie rod ends, wheel bearings, idler arm, power steering gearbox and head gasket, and when i got it back it still leaked power steering fluid and coolant badly, so it had to be towed back to the shop.

 

[Red]

If it makes you feel any better, I just spent $3,600 on repairs, including front tie rod ends, wheel bearings, idler arm, power steering gearbox and head gasket, and when i got it back it still leaked power steering fluid and coolant badly, so it had to be towed back to the shop.

Ouch! thats a good chunk of change to put into your 4Runner, I guess you plan on keeping it for a long time. I think I need to do the same thing, just send it in and get it all done at once. I really hope my head gasket doesnt go on me though, Im constantly worried it will.

Your 4Runner should be running strong now though.

 

[n8buddy]

Ya i was always worried about the head gasket as well, but now that its repaired i can kind of have a sigh of relief because i know it will last a while. My truck has over 357,000 kms and its only the 1st head gasket changed since the recall as far as i know, so its got some life left in it.

 

[Red]

wow, 357,000 kms, you're up there! Im still at 257,000. Im pretty sure the headgasket recall has been done on mine aswell, hopefully mine lasts until yours did then. That makes me feel a bit better. I just need to either get my electric fan controller installed or swap the electric out and go back to stock. Right now I have to manually turn on the fan and keep an eye on the temperature, its kind of annoying. Im not sure how hard it is to get the electric fan controller working properly so im alittle hesitant to get it installed.

I also have to pull apart my guage cluster and lube up that noisy speedo cable before it gets cold. What kind of lubricant did you use again?

 

[hickory]

what to do

I am currently replacing the front axles on my 95 4 cyl. I have to disconnect both top and bottom ball joints to get the axle out. The bolts in the flange are pressed in and did not get me enogh clearance to remove from underneath. I am going with rebuilt as they are $120 with trade in. This is the time to replace any suspension part they shows wear. My inner boot was completely torn.

 

[Red]

Cool, I'll get as much done as I can then, thanks.

 

[Red]

Ok, so I just called the shop and the quote they gave me to replace the Inner and Outer CV boots was $380/side so $760.

I might just find a friend who can do this for me or possibly get the old man to help.

Anyways, while I get the CV boots done what other parts should I replace while doing the boots? as preventative maintenance. Since alot will be taken apart Im sure there are a few parts I can replace at the same time.

Anyways, thats again for the help.

 

[Red]

bump

 

[651698416526195]

I don't know if you already had the boots replace, but they really aren't that hard. I did them myself in about 4 hours, first time doing it. If you are going to change them, or already did, it's not a bad idea to re-grease your wheel bearings or just replace them. I also did my head gasket, and all that that entails, myself. I caught it before there was damage done. Was quoted about $2200 to have it done. Did it myself for about $300. I am actually planning on cranking my torsion bars up maybe an inch. I've read and heard so far that as long as you go no more than two you should be alright. Obviously there will be more wear on CV joints, but so far that I've heard not much more. You should invest in a chilton or hanes booklet, they will sometimes save you money helping you do the job yourself. I try to do all my own work. Aside from the CV boots, and head gasket, I've also replaced my trany, rear- coils, springs, and spacers, and for how much of a pain in the freakin' butt it was I was pretty proud of myself for replacing the spark plugs.

 

[Red]

Yeah, I still havent done it, bought a couple parts but still have to buy my CV shafts and boots. I picked up some OME front shocks and SDORI ball-joint spacers so far. Im not sure if I should go with Toyota CVs or just go pick a couple up at NAPA.

Might just go to Napa and pick up the CVs and the parts required for a brake job.

I did a tune-up on my truck after I bought it, did spark plugs and wires and cap and rotor and all that stuff, I had to go to my dads house a couple hours away to use his garage. If I owned a house with a garage I'd have no problem doing my own work but all I have is the parking lot at my condo complex.

 

[n8buddy]

if you go for the napa cv's let us know how much they want for them. I phoned my local toyota dealership and they wanted $570 per side! that seems a little outrageous to me.

 

[4x4runner91]

I changed a CV Boot Sunday....about 3 hours of work (first time to change one), should be much quicker now that I know what to expect. I actually used one of those QUICK BOOTS instead of a standard one (quick boot is SLIT down the side and held together with tiny nuts and bolt and the clamps). It was about $14 and I did it 3-5 days after I noticed the ripped boot, as far as I could tell there was no rust or damage to the shaft or inner joint. I read up some articles on the internet and replacing a Standard CV boot, and it seemed pretty complicated for a driveway job. The quick boot repair was much faster and requires: cutting old boot and clamps off, cleaning old grease from joint with brake cleaner and anywhere else it may have SLUNG!!, packing joint with new grease and then installing the new quick boot. As far as i can tell, the new quick boot works as a temporary fix....off-roading not recommended, and it may even sling a little grease out, but not much. If you just need a fast fix so you don't tear anything up i would go with the quick boot, but if you have the money and time, go ahead and replace everything with the standard parts needed.

 

[651698416526195]

Yeah, I totally understand. We have a garage, but it's full of quads and motorcycles. I only use it with extensive jobs or when it gets down to about 5 degrees or lower. I tell you it really sucks working on your car when it's below zero. I have a bronco that's too tall for the garage so all work no matter how cold has to be done outside.
I've also started thinking about doing the ball joint spacers, I'm just trying to find someone who sells them locally.