Need help changing/flushing coolant system

[ellroy2]

Is there a write up with pics for the drain and fill method? I have two gallons of coolant waiting to go. I am at 86k miles and am just going to do it because I am doing a lot of other stuff to the truck and just want it all done at once. The dealership I went to sold me Alert brand coolant. They said it is the same exact thing as Toyota SLLC, just without the Toyota label and for over $5 a gallon cheaper. They said they use it in all of their coolant services.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Is there a write up with pics for the drain and fill method? I have two gallons of coolant waiting to go. I am at 86k miles and am just going to do it because I am doing a lot of other stuff to the truck and just want it all done at once. The dealership I went to sold me Alert brand coolant. They said it is the same exact thing as Toyota SLLC, just without the Toyota label and for over $5 a gallon cheaper. They said they use it in all of their coolant services.

Can you list a picture or website link? I have never heard of this brand, I'd have to look at its specifications to verify its compatibility if you'd like.

 

[ellroy2]

Well I couldn't find an online link or picture. Google pulls up nothing on this brand, so now I am worried. I questioned the guy at the dealership and he swore up and down that it is the same stuff. They had the Toyota brand SLLC too for sale but said he even uses the Alert stuff for his Tacoma. Here are some pics I took. Any thoughts?

 

[BlackWorksInc]

[MENTION=93544]ellroy2[/MENTION]

I tried to look up the company online, they don't seem to have a website; I did find a couple company profile indicating they seem to be a wholesale distributor of some kind. Unfortunately I could not get any data sheets on their product, nor did they respond to my phone call.

I would ask the dealership that sold you the coolant to provide paperwork proving it meets Toyota's SLLC requirements.

Toyota SLLC (Super Long Life Coolant):

~Elthylene Glycol Based
~Non-Silicate
~Non-Amine
~Non-Nitrate
~Non-Borate
~Long Life HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology)

If it doesn't meet ALL the above requirements it is NOT a compatible substitute for Toyota SLLC and does not meet the requirements for the engine's cooling system and could result in long term damage. The Dealership should have no problem providing you with the Alert Coolant's Data Sheet, after all they SHOULD have checked that before ordering and claiming it is an acceptable replacement for Toyota SLLC. The reality is that Ethylene Glycol is clear when it is first manufactured, the various colors are due to branding/corporate desire and not to differentiate what it has in it (for example old pre-G10 Coolant is still green like modern day G11+ Coolants, BMW Blue Coolant is different than Honda Blue Coolant, ect ect.), Zerex Asian blend has a "Chameleon Color" which is yellow because it typically blends well with almost any dye. So you really need to know what is in the bottle to be accurate, many websites and manufacturers do not seem to post all the ingredients of their coolant which makes finding an aftermarket one even harder.

Please let us know what you find out, I'd like to try and keep tabs on what aftermarket options there are for Toyota SLLC in case other members for what ever reason want to not use the genuine stuff. :typing:

 

[karyins]

I really appreciate all the input and suggestions from everyone. I went ahead and drained the coolant from the radiator and overflow tank and then replaced with new SLLC. I got just under a gallon when I drained the two. Also I parked on a decline before draining in hopes that some of the coolant from the engine would drain also. Not sure if that logic is correct or not. Any way I will go a head and repeat the above process in a couple months then call it good for 20-30k? Does that sound like a reasonable interval? I may also consider disconnecting the lower radiator hose as [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] suggested to get the majority of the coolant out. I have an 04 v6 sport what engine would I have? 1GRFE or 2UZFE? Thanks again

Hello guys! Didn't mean to bring up an old thread but I'm about to do the same and just wondering if 1 gallon of toyota SLLC would be enough?

Thanks!

 

[toyo]

Coolant Capacities:

V6-10.4 Qts.
V8-13.0 Qts.

 

[karyins]

Coolant Capacities:

V6-10.4 Qts.
V8-13.0 Qts.

Thanks!

Someone mentioned it's better to change the thermostat too since draining the radiator anyway. So I might do that.

Does anyone know the model # etc, and where to get one, for the thermostat on a 2004 SR5 V6?

 

[krunner53]

4.0L V6 is 1GR-FE

4.7L V8 is 2UZ-FE

I was wondering about that....Thanks

 

[BlackWorksInc]

@Toyo

I know this is a bit old, but are you really running LLC in your 4Runner? What interval are you running? You might think you don't have a compatibility issue, but that's not the correct fluid for the vehicle.

 

[ben550]

That's important to note, Toyota SLLC is a "Super Long Life Coolant" in that its first service is not due until 10yr/100k, after the vehicle has reached 10yr/100k you are expected to perform a coolant service followed by a 5yr/50k service interval for the rest of the vehicle's life (I believe Toyota's "Severe Driving Conditions" table actually shortens the initial coolant service as well.)

Why is it that the SLLC is good for 100k new, but once changed, the same fluid is only good for 1/2 the life it was originally good for? Is that more of a preventative maintenance "idiot proofing" spec from Toyota? A way to ensure people don't neglect an aging vehicle?

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Why is it that the SLLC is good for 100k new, but once changed, the same fluid is only good for 1/2 the life it was originally good for? Is that more of a preventative maintenance "idiot proofing" spec from Toyota? A way to ensure people don't neglect an aging vehicle?

That question has bothered me for a while as well...

Various reasons I've heard:

-Lower upfront maintenance costs looks better (i.e. they're stretching it at 10yr/100k so it looks better on paper)

-Contamination (air/exposure, it's never been clearly defined) once you flush the system requires a more stringent interval

-At higher mileage concerns of cavitation and other coolant related issues are greater, thus a lower interval ensures that the additive packages are kept in tip top shape.

-Because they did.


I've never had a solid answer on that one...

 

[07V8]

That question has bothered me for a while as well...

Various reasons I've heard:

-Lower upfront maintenance costs looks better (i.e. they're stretching it at 10yr/100k so it looks better on paper)

-Contamination (air/exposure, it's never been clearly defined) once you flush the system requires a more stringent interval

-At higher mileage concerns of cavitation and other coolant related issues are greater, thus a lower interval ensures that the additive packages are kept in tip top shape.

-Because they did.


I've never had a solid answer on that one...

If you were to just drain and refill the radiator instead of the entire system, would you think every 30k would suffice?

 

[BlackWorksInc]

If you were to just drain and refill the radiator instead of the entire system, would you think every 30k would suffice?

Realistically speaking, it probably would be fine to 5yr/50k. The issue isn't that the fluid magickally becomes contaminated or putrid, rather the additive packages in the fluid break down/get used up. So draining and refilling the radiator is fine (and typically what's done) as it replenishes the additive packages. At least that's how it was explained to me. Ideally a full drain of the block and all is good, but even replenishing have the system is good.

 

[ben550]

Realistically speaking, it probably would be fine to 5yr/50k. The issue isn't that the fluid magickally becomes contaminated or putrid, rather the additive packages in the fluid break down/get used up. So draining and refilling the radiator is fine (and typically what's done) as it replenishes the additive packages. At least that's how it was explained to me. Ideally a full drain of the block and all is good, but even replenishing have the system is good.

When changing out the coolant in a 4runner do you need to drain the engine block or is it sufficient to open the radiator and let the entire system drain through the radiator? If that is the lowest point of the system wouldn't it all drain from there? I picked up one of those nifty fill funnels you posted. Seems like a good product making it easier to bleed the system after refilling.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

When changing out the coolant in a 4runner do you need to drain the engine block or is it sufficient to open the radiator and let the entire system drain through the radiator? If that is the lowest point of the system wouldn't it all drain from there? I picked up one of those nifty fill funnels you posted. Seems like a good product making it easier to bleed the system after refilling.

Draining the block isn't a bad idea, bit just draining the radiator works well for the most part.