Need Help: Front Sway Bar Nut Removal

D

DaveK22

New member
Going to attempt to install a daystar lift on my 04'. I know rusty bolts will add to the challenge so I bought an impact wrench. Suspension work is new to me but I'm ready to give it a try.

The first nut I attempted to remove is on the front sway bar. I first started with a regular socket wrench. What is happening is that the whole bolt is turning along with the nut. The impact wrench made no difference once it was spinning. On the backside, there doean't appear to be any type of bolt or place to hold it from spinning. There is a thin rubber boot of some sort on back side but don't want to remove things I don't have to.

Anyway, how can I keep the entire bolt from spinning so I can remove the nut?

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Wuzzy said:
I believe the end of the bolt has a spot for a allen key. Most do anyway.
Click to expand...

Nope.

You can use vice grips to hold it in place. but that may require destroying the link. You could keep trying PB blaster and impact.
Do you have the suspension at full droop when you tried this or is the wheel still on the ground?
 
zopperman said:
Nope.

You can use vice grips to hold it in place. but that may require destroying the link. You could keep trying PB blaster and impact.
Do you have the suspension at full droop when you tried this or is the wheel still on the ground?
Click to expand...

I actually had jacked the vehicle under the lower arm because all I was doing was seeing if I could loosen some bolts and try out the impact wrench. When I'm ready to actually do it, I'll be putting jack stand in under frame rail.

I found this info on JA's site, from what I gather is from a tech service manual... (Note the "Hint" part)

2. REMOVE FRONT STABILIZER LINK ASSEMBLY LH
(a) Remove the nut and disconnect the stabilizer link
from the steering knuckle.
HINT:
If the ball joint turns together with the nut, use a
hexagon (6 mm) wrench to hold the stud.


Link to JA's diagram...see page 1 & top page 2
http://www.top4runners.com/ja/2007/lift/fsm_front.pdf
 
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DaveK22 said:
I actually had jacked the vehicle under the lower arm because all I was doing was seeing if I could loosen some bolts and try out the impact wrench. When I'm ready to actually do it, I'll be putting jack stand in under frame rail.

I found this info on JA's site, from what I gather is from a tech service manual... (Note the "Hint" part)

2. REMOVE FRONT STABILIZER LINK ASSEMBLY LH
(a) Remove the nut and disconnect the stabilizer link
from the steering knuckle.
HINT:
If the ball joint turns together with the nut, use a
hexagon (6 mm) wrench to hold the stud.


Hmmmm...
Click to expand...

You have the suspension compressed, having it at full droop will put pressure on the stud from the knuckle, hopefully enough to hold the stud.

Jack up from under the front diff brackets or frame rails and let the LCA hang

As for the studs having an alen key hole, I haven;t seen one in mine, but I do have an aftermarket link so that could be it.

You could also dremel a slot in the end of the stud (past the nut) and hold it with a flat head

[MENTION=72341]NJshadow93[/MENTION]
 
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Just put vice grips on the back side where it spins, careful not to clamp down on the little rubber boot. I have a thin set that does this perfectly. If you're by yourself you could set them as tight as you can get them (using pliers to tighten them) and it should be able to press against the UCA to prevent it from turning. If you have someone to hold the vice grips in place, then that's easier. It should free right up after that.
 
zopperman said:
That's why. You have the suspension compressed, having it at full droop will put pressure on the stud from the knuckle

Jack up from under the front diff brackets or frame rails and let the LCA hang

As for the studs having an alen key hole, I haven;t seen one in mine, but I do have an aftermarket link so that could be it.

[MENTION=72341]NJshadow93[/MENTION]
Click to expand...

Well, I guess I'll have to try that. Hopefully that'll do the trick. But still, what do you make of the service manual's "Hint"?
 
DaveK22 said:
Well, I guess I'll have to try that. Hopefully that'll do the trick. But still, what do you make of the service manual's "Hint"?
Click to expand...

I edited that post a bit, sorry. But definitely try that if you can't get it with the vice grips before you cut into or destroy the link.

No idea. I'll look at my links again - poke your head around and see if there's a 6mm allen key spot.
 
NJshadow93 said:
Just put vice grips on the back side where it spins, careful not to clamp down on the little rubber boot. I have a thin set that does this perfectly. If you're by yourself you could set them as tight as you can get them (using pliers to tighten them) and it should be able to press against the UCA to prevent it from turning. If you have someone to hold the vice grips in place, then that's easier. It should free right up after that.
Click to expand...

Look like another trip to Harbor Freight...
8" Needle Nose Locking Pliers
 
There's definitely a hex key hole on the end of the bolt for the OEM swaybar links. If you use a vise grip on that other part, be careful as you risk tearing the boot. My aftermarket links also have a hex key spot. I'm surprised that yours don't [MENTION=55855]zopperman[/MENTION].
 
gaterose said:
There's definitely a hex key hole on the end of the bolt for the OEM swaybar links. If you use a vise grip on that other part you risk tearing the boot. My aftermarket links also have a hex key spot. I'm surprised that yours don't [MENTION=55855]zopperman[/MENTION].
Click to expand...

Where is yours?
I'll look again, but I had this issue and i remember looking for a spot to stick something :naughty: and not being able to find anything
 
gaterose said:
There's definitely a hex key hole on the end of the bolt for the OEM swaybar links. If you use a vise grip on that other part, be careful as you risk tearing the boot. My aftermarket links also have a hex key spot. I'm surprised that yours don't [MENTION=55855]zopperman[/MENTION].
Click to expand...

actually, I just went out and took some px with my phone. I think I now see what you mean. I thought you were talking about a hex hole on back side but I think I see one on the same side as the nut. So, that means you could only use an open end wrench...as a socket would obviously cover the hex hole. I'll see if I can upload a pix...pending edit

Gotta love good old Northeast road salt huh? Not sure that hex hole is usable ;(

swaybarnut_zpsd5409307.jpg
[/URL]~original[/IMG]
 
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DaveK22 said:
Gotta love good old Northeast road salt huh? Not sure that hex hole is usable ;(
Click to expand...

wow, seriously, that's probably why I don't have one either. Maybe it was there at some point. BUt like I said before, you can make your own by cutting into it with a dremel and using a flat head.
 
meh, it looks bad but I bet you could get a wrench in there. Yeah it'll take a open end or ratcheting wrench.
 
zopperman said:
wow, seriously, that's probably why I don't have one either. Maybe it was there at some point. BUt like I said before, you can make your own by cutting into it with a dremel and using a flat head.
Click to expand...

...OR my daystar kit is going back to Amazon :(
 
Even on non-rusted vehicles though hex slots don't last well. Usually they strip out if the nut is that stuck, at least from my experience. The best way to get those off if to use an Impact Gun, if you still can't get it off with the impact; just cut the links or vice grips, I would highly recommend getting new ones vs. having to fight them again whenever you need to change and or remove them again.
 
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