Need help, she's sprung an oil leak

g8rdmd

New member
Hey all,

It's been awhile since I've posted and I need your collective help with an oil leak which has recently sprung up. I noticed it first with a few drops on the garage floor. I put the truck up on ramps and took off the skid plates, noticed oil grime all over the various structures underneath. The drain plug is dry. There is no sign of a leak under the truck or around the filter. So, I began looking inside the engine compartment and believe I've found the source. I've included some photos for reference...

The leak appear to be originating underneath the area of the bolt circled in red:
3f00baebab7252a9f252b26a2ad44178.jpg


It's dripping onto the exhaust manifold and making a wonderful smell while driving:
c9acd5b65a36fe15c3b5397ed3cf06a8.jpg

20cc5fe6783e948133a98116d87a8c2c.jpg


Here I can see drops sitting stationary a couple of hours after I let the truck sit:
33606e587a8e614da9b093e7045ba16d.jpg


The surface of the engine block below and behind that area (closest to the firewall) are oily and it appears it's running down to the garage floor. The dipstick shows an imperceptible change in oil level over the last few hundred miles I've driven since noticing the leak.

It would appear to me it's the seam around the block. Is it possible the seal has gone bad? Or what are some other possibilities? What do you all think are the possibilities? It's a 2002 with 204,000 miles on the clock, last oil change about 4,000 miles ago.

Thanks guys.
 
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Cracked valve covers are not all that uncommon on these motors. Rock auto and amazon have Dorman replacment for a good price. Come with gasket too.
 
Thanks, I knew you guys would come through. Ok. Secondary question--is this a DIY for an intermediate wrencher? I've done work on my vehicles before, are there any big road blocks I could run into? Does anyone happen to have a link to a thread showing the replacement. I imagine removing the intake manifold, etc., is necessary to gain access. Thanks!
 
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Thanks, I knew you guys would come through. Ok. Secondary question--is this a DIY for an intermediate wrencher? I've done work on my vehicles before, are there any big road blocks I could run into? Does anyone happen to have a link to a thread showing the replacement. I imagine removing the intake manifold, etc., is necessary to gain access. Thanks!

This is a pretty good write up on replacing the valve cover gaskets along with a few other parts that are typically done at the same time (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...e-cover-gasket-replacement-part-s-n-pics.html). And just to clarify for you, your valve cover gaskets are what seal the covers from leaking oil. From your pictures the valve cover (which is the metal piece) looks like it may be cracked. Personally I think it is just the way the metal looks in the picture, but you need to inspect it thoroughly to see if it is cracked at all. Valve covers can be expensive, the gasket not so bad.

This is not a hard job, but it is fairly labor intensive and will take a few hours and some patience if you're not used to this kind of work.
 
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Thank you 3rdgenyota, I appreciate it. The part in the photo that looks cracked doesn't look as severe in real life--however, there are parts near the firewall that I can't see and that seems to be where some oil is coming from. I found the covers on Amazon Prime--I figure I may order them along with a separate gasket and then, if all it takes is a gasket, I'll return the covers to Amazon.

I don't mind labor intensive, it's a nice way for me to relieve stress. Thank you for the link!
 
This is a pretty good write up on replacing the valve cover gaskets along with a few other parts that are typically done at the same time (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...e-cover-gasket-replacement-part-s-n-pics.html). And just to clarify for you, your valve cover gaskets are what seal the covers from leaking oil. From your pictures the valve cover (which is the metal piece) looks like it may be cracked. Personally I think it is just the way the metal looks in the picture, but you need to inspect it thoroughly to see if it is cracked at all. Valve covers can be expensive, the gasket not so bad.

This is not a hard job, but it is fairly labor intensive and will take a few hours and some patience if you're not used to this kind of work.

Not a mechanic but I'm pretty sure it is cracked.

1) Note the rounded bolt head in what appears to be clockwise direction.

2) The casting line appears to be physically closer to the head which is congruent with being over-tightend and sheering off.

3) The bottom of the valve cover nearest the bolt is lower as well.

 
Thank you 3rdgenyota, I appreciate it. The part in the photo that looks cracked doesn't look as severe in real life--however, there are parts near the firewall that I can't see and that seems to be where some oil is coming from. I found the covers on Amazon Prime--I figure I may order them along with a separate gasket and then, if all it takes is a gasket, I'll return the covers to Amazon.

I don't mind labor intensive, it's a nice way for me to relieve stress. Thank you for the link!

You're welcome. While you're in there I'd recommend replacing the spark plugs and the tube seals as well, it will save you from having to tear it all apart again anytime soon and its pretty cheap.

What brand is the cover and gasket? I've always used OEM, I've heard of some fitment issues with aftermarket parts on these, but I haven't personally experienced that.
 
Not a mechanic but I'm pretty sure it is cracked.

1) Note the rounded bolt head in what appears to be clockwise direction.

2) The casting line appears to be physically closer to the head which is congruent with being over-tightend and sheering off.

3) The bottom of the valve cover nearest the bolt is lower as well.


This is true. Good point.
 
Streetcreeper, you make a great point, I see what you're looking at. I'll look at it again in the morning light, but I definitely see what you're seeing in the photo and it does look cracked. Thanks.
 
The replacement covers are Dorman. Amazon and Rock Auto both have them. I'll have to check around for OEM as well.
 
The valve cover is cracked. I assume you aren't the original owner. Valve Cover leaks are common on these engines, as the years and miles accumulate.

Someone got way to carried away tightening the bolts, in an effort to stop the leak. Gently snugging down the bolts can often work.

Now that the valve cover is cracked, it will need to be replaced. Check the other valve cover for cracks too.
 
No, I'm not the original owner. I've been reading the diy threads and it seems like something I should be able to tackle. Even if the other cover doesn't appear cracked, I think I will replace it at the same time just so the job is done once and done right. Thanks everyone for your input, I love this forum [emoji106]
 
Forgive a stupid question, please..... I do not need to drain the oil to do this job, correct? Coolant, yes (helpful, anyway), oil, no.
 
Forgive a stupid question, please..... I do not need to drain the oil to do this job, correct? Coolant, yes (helpful, anyway), oil, no.

Just going off my limited knowledge, I don't even think you need to drain the coolant. You will lose some coolant from removing the TB, but I don't think it's necessary to drain the system. Just pinch the coolant lines.

And for sure, you don't need to drain the oil, unless you're doing an oil change while you're at it.
 
Just going off my limited knowledge, I don't even think you need to drain the coolant. You will lose some coolant from removing the TB, but I don't think it's necessary to drain the system. Just pinch the coolant lines.

And for sure, you don't need to drain the oil, unless you're doing an oil change while you're at it.

Thanks!
 

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