need help with brakes

4

4runneracerunner

New member
So yesturday my 1995 4runner 3.0 sr5 was driving normal, i picked my wife up from her work, and my brakes were working how they were suppose to, we went and got food, and i came back to leave and my brakes were very very hard to push, and they sound very bad, i have readed alot about this problem, but i tested my brake booster it has a vaccum, but could it be the sensor thats on it? all my fluids are good! it almost feels like i need to change my brakes, i havnt changed them since i bought my truck in april of 2013, im thinking its the brake pads, if anyone else can help me, thatll be great!

brake pedal seems prefect when its park, doesnt get stiff when the car is not on and pushing on the brakes, is that a problem also?

The guy i bought my truck off of, said he used brake cleaner alot, would that be problem also with my brakes acting up?

thank you!

anything will help
 
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4runneracerunner said:
So yesturday my 1995 4runner 3.0 sr5 was driving normal, i picked my wife up from her work, and my brakes were working how they were suppose to, we went and got food, and i came back to leave and my brakes were very very hard to push, and they sound very bad, i have readed alot about this problem, but i tested my brake booster it has a vaccum, but could it be the sensor thats on it? all my fluids are good! it almost feels like i need to change my brakes, i havnt changed them since i bought my truck in april of 2013, im thinking its the brake pads, if anyone else can help me, thatll be great!

brake pedal seems prefect when its park, doesnt get stiff when the car is not on and pushing on the brakes, is that a problem also?

The guy i bought my truck off of, said he used brake cleaner alot, would that be problem also with my brakes acting up?

thank you!

anything will help
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You probably need a new master cylinder brakes need to be bled and pads. That Is what I would do. And brake clean is not the problem it's designed to clean brake pads and rotors but has many other uses. We go through about a case a month at work.
 
4runneracerunner said:
And sorry i didnt say, it is a auto not a man tranmission, would i still need a new mast cydlyer ?
Click to expand...

yes that is what pushes the brake fluid to the calipers and wheel cylinders to stop you. i would probably do pads bleed brakes, and if it doesnt fix it make sure there is enough vaccuum to it and then replace master cylinder and brake booster at the same time.
 
okay well im buying new brake pads tomorrow and installing them monday, and if that doesnt work, i will be buying a new master cylder for $20 at carparts.com

but i will sure kept you updated, thank you for your help
 
sorry 541joseph no disrespect intended here, the vaccum booster asst`s the master cylinder making it easier to apply your brakes without using alot of force pushing down on the pedal. the master cylinder is what pushes the fluid through the brake lines to the calipers and moves a piston in the caliper to apply your brake pads against the rotors witch results in the stopping of the vehicale. but i agree with 541joseph that you should change your pads and bleed the system. or change the master and the pads then bleed the system
[MENTION=102285]541joseph[/MENTION] what shop do you work at?
 
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I work at a independent shop locally in bend I do understand what it does but it is quite expensive and not easy to replace really. That's why I was telling him to start with the cheaper easier stuff. I do think he needs a booster
 
I figured you where a Tech, I agree with you all the way . I was just trying to help with a little more info as to how the system works. you guys still changing out studded tires?
 
Thank you guys!

My booster has a lot of vaccum on it, I changed my brake pads and bleed the brakes, it's a little wayside to push and doesn't make a shitty sound anymore, but when I changed my pads tons of brake fuild came out, but only when I did my driver side, it happen when I push the pistons back, but now my master is leaking around the seal it looks like, so I will be buying a new master soon.

Do you guys know if Carparts.com is a good place to buy? http://www.carparts.com/details/Toy...709062380586&gclid=CP7QtZL41L0CFUNhfgod6ocAUg

That's the one I'm thinking, but I'm worried because it's so cheap and I'm not sure it is a crapy one, but i also think it's fine

Let me know
 
It is very common for you master to puke fluid when you squish the calipers back. I'd hold off and make sure it's truly leaking not just a residue from it over flowing. And ive heard if them I know a few 3rd gen guys have gotten parts from them but I would probably just get it from your local napa thru have pretty good warranties.
 
It's a little better to push but still stiff, and sometimes when on the gas Pedel it makes a high pitch sound like my brakes are whistling, and then goes alway after about 2 mins, any ideas
 
Why not disconnect the vacuum line from the booster and plug it, then drive it to see how much of a difference it makes. If there's a big difference in pedal the booste is probably good. I'd there's not much difference it probably has a leak.

You can also connect a little vac pump like one of those hand held Mighty Vacs to the booster and pull a little vacuum on it and see if it holds it. Do that first I'd you have one.

Boosters don't go bad very often, but master cylinders, brake hoses, etc do.
 
I had the same problem, most definitely your booster, if it were your master you wouldn't get any pressure and would continually have to pump the breaks to even stop.
 
We'll if my booster has a lot of vaccum on it, doesn't that mean it is good? I can try to see if there a difference without unplugged, but it's leaking around my seal on my master cydlier

What's that whistling sound from?
 
So i unplugged my booster from the valve and had tons of sucktion, but the brakes didnt change at all, so i put it back on after i drove around the block, and went to work, came back started my truck up, and now the whisting is gone, and brakes seem to be doing better more i drive it, but also, is my master cylider suppose to be so lose the contailer part, like it feels like i can pull it off. is that how it is suppose to be?
 
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