Need help with electrical issues

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Yotanation

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Hey guys, my buddy had hooked the booster cables on backwards on my 2000 4runner (it was an honest mistake) and I ended up blowing my ecu ign my 120amp alt fuse and my dome fuse, I replaced ecu ign and my alt fuse and it will start and run fine, I tried replacing my dome fuse and it popped so I tried again with a new one and it popped instantly, I checked My radio and there are no burnt wires grounding out and I'm really stumped over this, any advice on where to start next would be appreciated. Thanks
 
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Yikes...is the radio and dome light on the same fuse or circuit? You'll have to use a multimeter and ohm out the circuit from the fuse box to the device being powered and check for wire continuity...meter should beep or show 0 ohms (or have a small resistance). If your dome light fuse if popping, remove the dome light (or lights) so just the connector is just there dangling then reinstall the fuse again and see if it blows. Hopefully the fuse will not pop this time, then it's a matter of replacing a dome light assembly.

Try this and see what happens, we can dig a little deeper if you don't find have any luck.
 
That sucks. Well, something obviously got zapped and it's not likely the wiring. You just need to unplug one device on that circuit at a time, reinstall the fuse, and see if it blows again. Hopefully unplugging something simple will allow the fuse to last and not blow again. Start with the easiest thing first then work from there. These are things you can do first without taking to the shop or an electrician.

I'm just going to take a wild stab at this and bet that it may be your security system or radio since those are devices that need constant power. Keep us posted, we like hearing problems getting solved and success stories. Good luck!
 
Take it to a shop.. That's something I don't believe in hahaha I will try that when I get home from school today everything is simple to get it so I'll likely figure it out thanks!
 
Yeah jumping a battery backwards can be really bad. It can kill on board computers/control unit, melt wiring and blow fuses. Get a dmov and start ohm out the circuits.
 
That's quite a few devices to be on a single fuse, kind of surprising and makes the job of troubleshooting more of a pain in the butt. My '07 Civic has a fuse for almost everything...at least Honda did 1 thing right on this car.
 
Well, checking the radio for burnt wires is not how you do it. What will fry is an internal diode that you will never detect without surgery, and even then probably not visually. As it is a likely fail, I would unplug the radio completely and see if it still shorts.

My second nomination would be the DRL circuit which has a feed from the DOME fuse and is FULL of fryable diodes. Try and find the DRL module and unplug it. On a 2000 ONLY, look for a cage type box between battery and fender (That's the battery tray at the bottom of the pic):

13515064574_68805abefa.jpg


Then see if short goes away. If you can live without DRL's, you can just leave it that way if it fixes the issue.

A test light across the DOME fuse should be bright with the short and much dimmer with it removed, if not dark. Saves you using a handful of fuses.

Report back and we can move on to other suspects if no joy. But I'm betting on one of these two. We can find this if you are patient.
 
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Ok, that's progress. Two of six circuits eliminated. The others are:

Auto antenna
Cig. Lighter/Clock
Interior Light
Combination Meter (basically headlight turn-off).

Contrary to a previous post, door locks are NOT on the Dome circuit.

To do this you will need access to the reverse of the driver's side fuse panel and the Center Junction Box by the steering tube. These are shown in the attachment to this post on pp. 24 and 26.

Pull the following plugs in turn and see if short goes away, then replace and do the next (Plugs with 1 are in Driver's Side Box, 3 are in Center Box):

1A, 1E, 1F,3C, 3F.

Also look for any burnt traces or terminals in either box while you are there.

This should get us closer.
 

Attachments

TheDurk said:
Ok, that's progress. Two of six circuits eliminated. The others are:

Auto antenna
Cig. Lighter/Clock
Interior Light
Combination Meter (basically headlight turn-off).

Contrary to a previous post, door locks are NOT on the Dome circuit.

To do this you will need access to the reverse of the driver's side fuse panel and the Center Junction Box by the steering tube. These are shown in the attachment to this post on pp. 24 and 26.

Pull the following plugs in turn and see if short goes away, then replace and do the next (Plugs with 1 are in Driver's Side Box, 3 are in Center Box):

1A, 1E, 1F,3C, 3F.

Also look for any burnt traces or terminals in either box while you are there.

This should get us closer.
Click to expand...

:iagree:
Those pdf prints are sweet by the way, we use those on big screen TV's at work and it helps tremendously
 
alright, i replaced tail relay and now have gauge lights and heater lights but still no dash lights radio and such, is there any relay that controls dome fuse?? i still have more stuff on the circuit to check but im just wondering
 
also, whenever i turn my lights on i hear a clicking noise coming from the fusebox and another one coming from the passenger side kick panel
 
FIXED!!!! uplugged all the circuits and put a fuse in, plugged all the circuits back in and no pop, radio and lights work now. I would like to thank all of you who helped me through this!! I am one happy 15 year old!!
 
Yotanation said:
FIXED!!!! uplugged all the circuits and put a fuse in, plugged all the circuits back in and no pop, radio and lights work now. I would like to thank all of you who helped me through this!! I am one happy 15 year old!!
Click to expand...

That's the second time I have heard of this working and I didn't understand it the first time, either. Now it's added to my list of things to try. Glad you got it fixed.

I just wish I knew what could go from a short state to normal by being unplugged when blowing the fuse didn't do it. Electricity is funny sometimes.

Exactly which ones did you unplug? Driver's Side Box or Center J/B or both? Or just the ones in my post?
 
TheDurk said:
That's the second time I have heard of this working and I didn't understand it the first time, either. Now it's added to my list of things to try. Glad you got it fixed.

I just wish I knew what could go from a short state to normal by being unplugged when blowing the fuse didn't do it. Electricity is funny sometimes.

Exactly which ones did you unplug? Driver's Side Box or Center J/B or both? Or just the ones in my post?
Click to expand...

I unplugged the 3 on the drivers side box, i dont know if this makes sense but maybe when you blow your alt fuse like i did could it possible over load that circuit and maybe needs to be reset by unplugging those?
 
Yotanation said:
I unplugged the 3 on the drivers side box, i dont know if this makes sense but maybe when you blow your alt fuse like i did could it possible over load that circuit and maybe needs to be reset by unplugging those?
Click to expand...

I'm guessing it's some protective by-pass diode somewhere. It's how it resets that bothers me. Pulling or blowing the fuse and unplugging the circuit should be the same to it.

The other wild-ass theory is some overload damage in the Driver's Side Box where a trace got shorted and then got 'unshorted' when you pulled/reinserted the plugs. If so, we know where to start if it happens again--which it might.
 
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RESURRECTION TIME! -Hopefully you guys are still around.....


Same thing is happening to my 4Runner right now - blew Alt Fuse, replaced and now it's smoking every Dome fuse I put in it! No dome lights, no power locks, no radio... :(

When you say "Driver's Side box" is that the on in the engine bay or in the cab? Did you pull every relay and every fuse? Or just the relays?
 
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