Need opinion on undercarriage rust *video*

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kevinRR said:
Looks a lot better then the other one you posted up. If your not in a hurry you should consider finding one out west or down south.
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yeah thinking the same thing, I'm talking to the guy about prices. If he can knock it down some I would consider it but I'm definitely keeping my eyes open now.
 
Yes, definitely better than the Ohio truck.

That undercarriage doesn't look too out of this place for this region. Most of that is surface rust and should clean and restore OK. You may have some hardware that give you a hard time on it as you work on it.

I wouldn't necessarily pass on it. I'd see if they'd come down to about $15K or more on that price though. Dealers around here seem to be asking exceptionally high amounts on these trucks (and you know the person that traded in probably got barely half of that asking amount).
 
Mike07SE said:
Yes, definitely better than the Ohio truck.

That undercarriage doesn't look too out of this place for this region. Most of that is surface rust and should clean and restore OK. You may have some hardware that give you a hard time on it as you work on it.

I wouldn't necessarily pass on it. I'd see if they'd come down to about $15K or more on that price though. Dealers around here seem to be asking exceptionally high amounts on these trucks (and you know the person that traded in probably got barely half of that asking amount).
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That’s exactly what I said. 15k and I would consider it.
 
The rims are especially chewed up and corroded, got a dent/crease in the rear hatch, and at 12 years old it's likely in need of a timing belt and water pump despite the low mileage. (edit: these are negotiating points for you to push down the price, I'm not bashing the truck).

The undercarriage rust is not bad at all. TLC to prep and chemically neutralize the rust, some POR-15 paint, fog the insides of the frame rails and crossmembers with wax-oil, and it'll outlive your desire to keep it.

edit to add: when you have them at your best price, negotiate in the new timing belt and water pump...all Toyota parts including the pink coolant. Subaru techs get plenty of timing belt work so this should be cake for them.

https://www.gatewaysubaru.com/used/...elmar-md-90225ab90a0e0ae701b1b0357f8691db.htm
 
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mmmmm..... not so sure

Things I see:

Rusty drain and fill bolts on rear diff... Are they frozen? Might be a bit of a problem...

Rusty LCA cam bolts... again, frozen perhaps? That could be a PIA and lead to having them cut off to align...

can't tell how the insides of the frame members look. I'd still read up on the frame recall issues and know about what the procedures and option are/would be.
 
My, maybe worthless .02

Go take it for a drive... It's not as far as Ohio :-)

When I was looking there were a lot of runners that looked great (in photos). Once you get there, it never looks as good - and driving it will let you know what kind of condition it's in. Aside from available service records....

When I settled on mine (looked for over a year) it had just over 150 on the clock. Had 150k worth of dents and scratches. Fine, I planned, and do, wheel it. BUT when I got in and drove it. the driveline felt like it had 60k on it, at best. (And the frame looked hella better than what you're looking at)

I can't tell you how many I saw on the inter webs that looked great or decent or even ok... but when it came time for a drive, it was like they were ready for pasture, or for someone that wanted a massive project.

Bottom line, aside from the general records/fluids etc... find a good frame (takes time sourcing local on the east coast) and then drive it, if it's been beat or neglected, it'll show.
 
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