Need Opinions! 4runner veers to the right and it's annoying!

Hi Guys,

I've had numerous alignments within the past few months, but my 4runner still veers to the right when I let go of the steering wheel. Additionally, to drive straight I need to turn the wheel to the left about 2-5 degrees even on a completely flat road (no crown). Here are some more details.
  • When the steering wheel is held straight, the 4runner will veer right at any speed
  • When I'm driving straight at any speed, the steering wheel with turn to the right 1-4 degrees by itself if I let go.
  • I don't have any vibration at any speeds
  • Tire pressure is the same all around.
  • I have Icon UCAs and recently (like last week) replaced my tie rods, LCA including the bushings, and wheel bearings. It was still veering to the right before then.

So much time has gone into research, yet I still cannot find a solution. I've gone to two difference alignment shops, and they still can't fix the issue, nor do they know what is causing it.

Anyone else dealing with this annoying issue?
 
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Check your calipers.
I recently had my wheel bearings replaced, but my mechanic never mentioned anything about my calipers being sticky. My car drives smooth and does not go in any direction when braking. Is there a way to tell if this is the culprit without have to take off the wheel to inspect the brake pad?
 
could be tire wear, excessive play in tie rod ends, or bushing on steering rack. Check them all. Also, make sure it is not just excessive crown in the road. Try a few different roads on the test drive...
 
could be tire wear, excessive play in tie rod ends, or bushing on steering rack. Check them all. Also, make sure it is not just excessive crown in the road. Try a few different roads on the test drive...

Tire wear - Tires are relatively new with less than 10k on them.

Play in tie rods - Tie rods are brand new

Bushing on steering rack - I'll have to look into this. Is this an obvious thing to look at if I were to turn my wheels? What are the symptoms to look for?

Test drive - I've driven on multiple roads - most recently a trip to Tahoe.
 
I recently had my wheel bearings replaced, but my mechanic never mentioned anything about my calipers being sticky. My car drives smooth and does not go in any direction when braking. Is there a way to tell if this is the culprit without have to take off the wheel to inspect the brake pad?

I'm with Toyo on this one. Just to clarify - when you apply pressure to the brake pedal, the pulling stops, correct?

If so, it sounds like your front passenger caliper needs a rebuild because the piston is sticking.

I don't know of any way to check this without pulling off both front wheels and measuring the pads to see if there's accelerated wear on the passenger side. When I run into this type of problem, I usually R&R the caliper anyway, since I've done all the work to get there (especially if the calipers are getting on in age).
 
I'm with Toyo on this one. Just to clarify - when you apply pressure to the brake pedal, the pulling stops, correct?

If so, it sounds like your front passenger caliper needs a rebuild because the piston is sticking.

I don't know of any way to check this without pulling off both front wheels and measuring the pads to see if there's accelerated wear on the passenger side. When I run into this type of problem, I usually R&R the caliper anyway, since I've done all the work to get there (especially if the calipers are getting on in age).

I haven't really thought about a frozen caliper b/c I was under the assumption that my car would veer in a certain direction when braking alone if a caliper were frozen.
 
Took the words right out of my mouth. I wonder if his thrust angle is just a little off. If so, you need to check your rear UCA trailing arm bushings.
Are those the big ones or little ones? Also, what exactly should I be looking for when looking at the bushings - if they're cracked/bulging?
 
Are those the big ones or little ones? Also, what exactly should I be looking for when looking at the bushings - if they're cracked/bulging?

Yes, the rear UCA trailing arms are the BIG ones. The bushings will look slightly to greatly compressed. Also, check to see if either of said arms have "bowed" at all. I have had two "bow" on me on the passenger side over the last 40k miles from normal everyday, on-road driving. They are, essentially, very thin-walled tubes and are prone to bowing if you back over a large bump or even out of your driveway too fast. In fact, I am about to order Toytec's adjustable rear UCA trailing arms because, my thrust angle is off a little bit due to a bowing trailing arm. Not saying this is what you are dealing with, but it's worth ruling it out.
 
Yes, the rear UCA trailing arms are the BIG ones. The bushings will look slightly to greatly compressed. Also, check to see if either of said arms have "bowed" at all. I have had two "bow" on me on the passenger side over the last 40k miles from normal everyday, on-road driving. They are, essentially, very thin-walled tubes and are prone to bowing if you back over a large bump or even out of your driveway too fast. In fact, I am about to order Toytec's adjustable rear UCA trailing arms because, my thrust angle is off a little bit due to a bowing trailing arm. Not saying this is what you are dealing with, but it's worth ruling it out.

Thanks! New LCAs were on my to-do list for a while, so maybe it's time. I'll take a look at them tonight. Thanks again for the info!
 
Anyone check the lower ball-joint on the right?

A stuck caliper is very likely given the problems the 4runner has had with them.
 
Post up a printout of the alignment.
What do you guys think about the specs?
pW96X6S.jpg
 
Anyone check the lower ball-joint on the right?

A stuck caliper is very likely given the problems the 4runner has had with them.

Bought brand new OEM LCAs that come with new ball joints, so don't think that's the issue. Also, I live in CA and don't see much salt. I think frozen calipers are more prevalent in areas that see more salt.
 
No your thrust angle is not off enough to be even noticed. When I do alignments, I always give a negative caster split. On my own 4 runner I have -.3 degrees of caster split. This split helps "correct" road crown. All of the other #'s look good on the printout.
Jeff
 

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