need quick answer: do i REALLY NEED shift lever extension for 2" BL?

LINY4Runner

New member
and yes, i searched....for some reason it won't give me any older posts...i just need to know if I'll need the shift lever extension for a 2" BL
 
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Take care of your actual suspension lift before you lift the body. Body lift's do little if anything IMO.

You don't gain any clearance and your center of gravity is up. I really never see a body lift in my future, I can run 35"s if I need to without a body lift.

But I think with 2" you will need a new shifter extension, and your gas filler tube(like my techno terminology :bigok: ), brake lines, and emergency brake cable to get started

Do it right the first time
 
yeah that's covered...i saw a post somewhere about an adjustment for the shift lever...don't know where it went though...
 
racedirt1 said:
Take care of your actual suspension lift before you lift the body. Body lift's do little if anything IMO.

You don't gain any clearance and your center of gravity is up. I really never see a body lift in my future, I can run 35"s if I need to without a body lift.

But I think with 2" you will need a new shifter extension, and your gas filler tube(like my techno terminology :bigok: ), brake lines, and emergency brake cable to get started

Do it right the first time



is all of that absolutely necessary? this is the first i am hearing about any of that!
 
racedirt1 said:
Take care of your actual suspension lift before you lift the body. Body lift's do little if anything IMO.

You don't gain any clearance and your center of gravity is up. I really never see a body lift in my future, I can run 35"s if I need to without a body lift.

But I think with 2" you will need a new shifter extension, and your gas filler tube(like my techno terminology :bigok: ), brake lines, and emergency brake cable to get started

Do it right the first time

Body lifts are something that can be argued and but there are a few things you mentioned that can be misleading. While body lifts don't gain ground clearance, they can be used to fit larger tires which WILL gain ground clearance. And while they do raise your center of gravity, a small BL combined with a small suspension lift would not raise your center of gravity as much as a higher suspension lift would. You could probably run 35's up front but that is only because of your tube bumper, but unless you have LandCruiser coils out back I doubt you will run 35s back there without rubbing like crazy everytime you stuff one.

To the OP, a good idea would be to get ahold of 4Crawler and ask him what all you will need with your BL. He packages everything together. I Would definately look into the extended brake lines though.
 
whjy would you want to run a 2" body lift? a good rule of thumb is 1" max. too much stress on the body. to it right with a suspension lift.
 
racedirt1 said:
Take care of your actual suspension lift before you lift the body. Body lift's do little if anything IMO.

You don't gain any clearance and your center of gravity is up. I really never see a body lift in my future, I can run 35"s if I need to without a body lift.

But I think with 2" you will need a new shifter extension, and your gas filler tube(like my techno terminology :bigok: ), brake lines, and emergency brake cable to get started

Do it right the first time

Wow this post couldn't be more wrong. Let's see, contrary to what you seem to think, body lifts DO offer clearance. The shifter extension is nice, not needed for the auto shifter but a plus for the 4wd selector. You do NOT have to extend your gas filler tube, brake lines or e brake cables with a 2" body lift. The brake lines will get rather tight, but after 12 months of rough runs with my body lift I haven't had one bust on me.

Then there's this part you have about body lifts being unnecessary. A body lift is just as unnecessary as 35s...can you give me a legitimate reason you need 35s? Because for every off road reason you think you have for it, I have evidence of 33s accomplishing the same, and probably even more.

And as for what you said about 'doing it right', you would never know you had a body lift if you did it right, same thing applies to suspension and every other mod you could do. I think putting aftermarket coils on stock struts is worse than installing a body lift.

I'm glad I saw this post, I don't know what this site would turn to if nonsense like this was posted as truth without being censored. Good lucky liny, if you have any questions let me know
 
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MillerPKA said:
Wow this post couldn't be more wrong. Let's see, contrary to what you seem to think, body lifts DO offer clearance. The shifter extension is nice, not needed for the auto shifter but a plus for the 4wd selector. You do NOT have to extend your gas filler tube, brake lines or e brake cables with a 2" body lift. The brake lines will get rather tight, but after 12 months of rough runs with my body lift I haven't had one bust on me.

Then there's this part you have about body lifts being unnecessary. A body lift is just as unnecessary as 35s...can you give me a legitimate reason you need 35s? Because for every off road reason you think you have for it, I have evidence of 33s accomplishing the same, and probably even more.

And as for what you said about 'doing it right', you would never know you had a body lift if you did it right, same thing applies to suspension and every other mod you could do. I think putting aftermarket coils on stock struts is worse than installing a body lift.

I'm glad I saw this post, I don't know what this site would turn to if nonsense like this was posted as truth without being censored. Good lucky liny, if you have any questions let me know


I respectfully completely disagree. Body lifts cause issues that are hard to track down over time. When you change a suspension you are working with a system that was designed to move up and down. It is easy to pinpoint the components that need to be addressed in that system. (ie, longer brake lines).

The body was NEVER intended to be moved away from the frame. You have to lenghten the body bolts, pull on the wire harness, strain on hard brake lines not intended to flex , change shifter linkages and clearance points, extend steering linkages, etc. Additional twist in the frame add stress on the now longer body bolts.

I would agree that body lifts are cheap and easy way to fit bigger tires. But in the long run they are a pain and cause issues. They also leave the frame 2" closer to the ground which is the last thing you want when trying to go wheeling.

Do this math. The whole point of a lift is to fit bigger tires. The whole point of bigger tires is more ground clearance. If a 2" body lift allows you to add a 2" taller tire, that will only net you 1" more ground clearance under the frame. A suspension lift of the same size will net you 3" of clearance under the frame because the frame is moved up by the lift AND the tires.
 
jbach said:
I respectfully completely disagree. Body lifts cause issues that are hard to track down over time. When you change a suspension you are working with a system that was designed to move up and down. It is easy to pinpoint the components that need to be addressed in that system. (ie, longer brake lines).

The body was NEVER intended to be moved away from the frame. You have to lenghten the body bolts, pull on the wire harness, strain on hard brake lines not intended to flex , change shifter linkages and clearance points, extend steering linkages, etc. Additional twist in the frame add stress on the now longer body bolts.

I would agree that body lifts are cheap and easy way to fit bigger tires. But in the long run they are a pain and cause issues. They also leave the frame 2" closer to the ground which is the last thing you want when trying to go wheeling.

Do this math. The whole point of a lift is to fit bigger tires. The whole point of bigger tires is more ground clearance. If a 2" body lift allows you to add a 2" taller tire, that will only net you 1" more ground clearance under the frame. A suspension lift of the same size will net you 3" of clearance under the frame because the frame is moved up by the lift AND the tires.

Have you witnessed a quality body lift exhibit any of these symptoms you describe? Not being an ass just asking a question. I've been reading intently on these boards for a few years now and have yet to see anyone have a problem with a quality body lift. Of course a suspension lift is always a better option, but many of us are at the maximum height for suspension lifts before we start snapping CV shafts left and right, yet the 285s still rub so a BL is a good solution. I agree with what you say about putting more stress on all of those things but let's be honest here, anyone who wheels on a regular basis is putting more stress on EVERYTHING than was ever intended from the factory. When you are into offroading, more stress on your vehicle is a fact of life isn't it?
 
MillerPKA said:
Wow this post couldn't be more wrong. Let's see, contrary to what you seem to think, body lifts DO offer clearance. The shifter extension is nice, not needed for the auto shifter but a plus for the 4wd selector. You do NOT have to extend your gas filler tube, brake lines or e brake cables with a 2" body lift. The brake lines will get rather tight, but after 12 months of rough runs with my body lift I haven't had one bust on me.

So you have a body lift that increases ground clearance huh? You may not HAVE to do that stuff, but why wouldn't you do it right? Tight brake cables and short shifters seem's like a good idea to you?

MillerPKA said:
Then there's this part you have about body lifts being unnecessary. A body lift is just as unnecessary as 35s...can you give me a legitimate reason you need 35s? Because for every off road reason you think you have for it, I have evidence of 33s accomplishing the same, and probably even more.

That may one of the silliest things I have ever heard, by your logic then what would be the advantage of 33's compared to 265's or any other smaller tire? How is then that many runs require a minimum of 35" tires?

MillerPKA said:
And as for what you said about 'doing it right', you would never know you had a body lift if you did it right, same thing applies to suspension and every other mod you could do. I think putting aftermarket coils on stock struts is worse than installing a body lift.

I wouldn't put aftermarket coils on stock shocks or struts either, but it would still accomplish more than a body lift by itself.

MillerPKA said:
I'm glad I saw this post, I don't know what this site would turn to if nonsense like this was posted as truth without being censored. Good lucky liny, if you have any questions let me know

Yes, thank god for you - god only know's what would happen to this site if weren't for you:bash:
 
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for the record, I am not putting a body lift on so i can jack my truck 2 inches for cheap. I am doing it in addition to the OME 3" coils to gain a total lift of 5"
 
racedirt1 said:
So you have a body lift that increases ground clearance huh? You may not HAVE to do that stuff, but why wouldn't you do it right? Tight brake cables and short shifters seem's like a good idea to you?


You like this 'seems like' approach to your statements, I wonder how much first hand experience you have. As I stated before, I've beat the crap out of my rig with the stock cables and throughout routine inspection since the body lift I have no problems whatsoever, so yes, in this case it seems like a good idea when it comes to pinching pennis, as the old saying goes, if its not broken don't fix it. A short t-case shifter has no ill effects whatsoever, it just sits lower. All the adapter does is screws on the top and the knob screws on the other end, are you implying a short shifter is dangerous unless its raised 2 inches? pick and choose your battles wisely my friend, that's a losing one

That may one of the silliest things I have ever heard, by your logic then what would be the advantage of 33's compared to 265's or any other smaller tire? How is then that many runs require a minimum of 35" tires?


I'm pretty sure it was apparent it was going to be mostly for street. If it was for a full on trail rig we would have recommended a solid axle at the beginning, but you have to acknowledge the audience you're trying to communicate with. Its obvious he is relatively moderate in his endeavors (no offense to you liny, just stating what i think you're going for). Have you seen the trails that have such requirements? This is only for your benefit when you go there so they can assume you have the clearance and crawl ability to ride through said trail. The difference between tire sizes on this site, most notably the 265-285 upgrade, is done 90% for cosmetics, the ground clearance you gain from that swap is minimal. Again, no offense to this site, but a fair portion of the frequent visitors, at least to this subforum, tend to be less into trail carnage and more extreme off roading. Its all about the audience


I wouldn't put aftermarket coils on stock shocks or struts either, but it would still accomplish more than a body lift by itself.


Accomplishments in this case are in the eye of the beholder. A solid install on a body lift is better than an aftermarket coil on a stock strut any day of the week.



Yes, thank god for you - god only know's what would happen to this site if weren't for you:bash:

I don't even have a remark for that nonsense. Let me ask you something though, have you ever been wheeling? And I'm not talking puddles and mud diving. It seems like more and more opinions pop up from those who are not nor have not been in the situation they claim to have knowledge on. If a body lift can survive the crawls carnage and trail expeditions I've seen and been through I believe its fit for road...if you don't mind me asking what is your experience to back up these claims of body lifts. Enlighten me please

And just as a caution, if you want to get personal I suggest you PM me, any relevant info on this debate feel free to reply to, but keep it on topic here
 
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racedirt1 said:
So you have a body lift that increases ground clearance huh? You may not HAVE to do that stuff, but why wouldn't you do it right? Tight brake cables and short shifters seem's like a good idea to you?

Well I'm not sure what kind of offroading you do, but when I'm on the trails, higher clearance of bumpers and rocker panels is never a bad thing and a body lift achieves that...


racedirt1 said:
That may one of the silliest things I have ever heard, by your logic then what would be the advantage of 33's compared to 265's or any other smaller tire? How is then that many runs require a minimum of 35" tires?

What Miller was probably getting at is that there are a lot better things you can do to a rig then upsize tires (locker(s), armor, pick the right lines..)


racedirt1 said:
I wouldn't put aftermarket coils on stock shocks or struts either, but it would still accomplish more than a body lift by itself.

I DID put aftermarket coils on stock shocks and struts. It's obviously more limited than if I had the longer struts to accommodate but it increased my ground clearance, allowed me to fit larger tires, and I haven't blown out shocks yet. And if I do, I know have money to replace them that I didn't have before.
 
Pfft, whatever gets you off. I'm not gonna get into some pissing match on a forum over which is better between a suspension vs. body lift.

:bigok:
 
racedirt1 said:
Pfft, whatever gets you off. I'm not gonna get into some pissing match on a forum over which is better between a suspension vs. body lift.

:bigok:

I don't want to get into a pissing match either. I don't think anyone on here was saying that a body lift is better than a suspension lift. The OP is adding a body lift to his suspension lift to get a little more clearance for his tires, rather than push the suspension past it's limits.
 

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