Need Stronger Brakes, What to do?

andyman32392

New member
Hey guys, I have an '08 Sport V6, so I have the bigger brakes Ever since I installed my shrockworks and bfg mud terrains, my brakes have been sub-par at best. I was wondering if others have had this problem and if so how can I make my truck stop. It just doesn't have acceptable stopping power anymore.
 
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Flush brake fluid with something better than stock, and install better pads. Rotors are probably fine, maybe get them resurfaced if they really need it. Those are the most cost-conscious ways to try improving braking, and usually work well enough. After that, other upgrades can get expensive.
 
I'm getting a BBK and its expensive, but has a dramatic improvement on durability and stopping force. Fluids and pads are the most cost effective way to slightly improve your braking characteristics. The most important part here is the amount of traction. Your braking force is reflective on the amount of traction you have in a specific situation. What kind of tires do you have? Generally off road tires don't have good on road traction.
 
Hey guys, I have an '08 Sport V6, so I have the bigger brakes Ever since I installed my shrockworks and bfg mud terrains, my brakes have been sub-par at best. I was wondering if others have had this problem and if so how can I make my truck stop. It just doesn't have acceptable stopping power anymore.


Odd... Neither one has anything to do with braking power..Maybe the tread blocks squirm a bit more and the weight of that bumper is nil( no more than a med size passenger)
I have 600 xtra pounds of bumpers( Arb front much heavier that shrockworks) and winch, gear etc. and mine stops just like it always has. Fluids are cheap and should be changed reg.depending on your mileage you may need new pads and it s just timing as you installed bumper ,tires.

CIMG1853.jpg~original
 
Would Slotted and Drilled rotors help?

What about if you switched to ceramic pads? Would they give you better stopping power on the stock rotors? Would ceramic pads even work with the stock rotors, just some thoughts...
 
Read somewhere, maybe on this forum, that Tundra brakes would work. As mentioned, Steel brake lines, fluid change, etc. should help. Wish I'd known before going with BBK. I do a lot of mountain driving so wanted something beyond stock.
 

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Would Slotted and Drilled rotors help?

What about if you switched to ceramic pads? Would they give you better stopping power on the stock rotors? Would ceramic pads even work with the stock rotors, just some thoughts...

don't ceramic pads cost thousands of dollars or something like that?
 
try swaping out the stocks to some ebc green stuff pads , 6000s or 7000s in the front and the 6000s in the back, also change the rotors that are sloted, slotted and drilled is better.
 
Drilled / slotted rotors will not improve peak braking force, and will have an extremely negligible benefit on cooling. Also depending on how they were manufactured, they may have a lower overall heat buildup tolerance (read: they might fail catastrophically when pushed hard). In my days of road racing, I've never seen a blank rotor have any serious problems, but have seen several drilled rotors crack. I stick with blanks.

EDIT: this is not to say, the drilled rotors which come with a properly designed BBK would be susceptible to this problem -- those are definitely an improvement (and they better be for that price). I'm talking about putting stock-size drilled rotors in place of stock blanks, being a potential problem.
 
don't ceramic pads cost thousands of dollars or something like that?

No, carbon fiber rotors and pads cost thousands...

Try hawk performance pads, I ran them on my F250 superduty and it greatly improved my braking with 37" tires. I plan to run them on the 'runner when stock wears out.
Hawk Performance Brake Pads: Race Proven, Street Legal

HPS or LTS for the 4runner sport:

HB477F.610 Disc Brake Pad; HPS Performance Street w/0.610 Thickness; Rear;
HB490F.665 Disc Brake Pad; HPS Performance Street w/0.665 Thickness; w/5.3 in. Brake Pad; Front;
HB477Y.610 Disc Brake Pad; LTS w/0.610 Thickness; Rear;
HB490Y.665 Disc Brake Pad; LTS w/0.665 Thickness; w/5.3 in. Brake Pad; Front;
HB490Z.665 Disc Brake Pad; Performance Ceramic w/0.665 Thickness; w/5.3 in. Brake Pad; Front;
HB490P.665 Disc Brake Pad; SuperDuty w/0.665 Thickness; w/5.3 in. Brake Pad; Front;
 
Stock brakes are fine until taller heavier tires are installed. Read this. Braking Developments Also when you add skid plates, rocks sliders etc. that is more weight that needs to be stopped also.

That comparison is a bit excesive 10" lift on those size tires.

Again I Have Oversize tires and over 600extra pounds of just winch and bumpers , Brakes are fine ..these are not race cars and if you are seriously overcookin your brakes you need to chill and change your driving habits !
my .02
 
is it just me...or does anyone else feel like stock (t4r limited) brakes are more than adequate here?

Ive got 71k on my 2005 and the brakes always feel a little undersized for the truck compared to other cars I had like the Pathfinder, or my wife's Caddy Deville and Honda Accord....
 
I have the EBC rotors and pads green stuff 7000 in front 6000 in back the rotors are not drilled they are dimpled and slotted one thing I have noticed is it's not going to brake hard when your on the pedal a little bit but when you do you have a LOT of braking power. Over memorial day weekend I drove from upstate New York to Long Island with 2 jetskis 900 pounds a piece plus the trailer they are on plus 5 people in the car plus all of our stuff piled all the way to the top in the back 5 hour drive car stopped just fine. Only time they struggled was when I was towing my dads 8000 pound plus 28 ft mako it was still much better over stock pads and rotors.
 
check your calipers. ive had an 03v8 and an 06v8, both had caliper pistons sieze. this will limit clamping force and use only a portion of your pad.

I agree with the HAWK pads. something with a good coef of friction in low temps.

drilled rotors are for bling.

slotted rotors do help organic pads release gases and escape from pad surface on a track car.

for a truck... good pads. if you eat heavy rotors, maybe cyro the next set.

cheers, jason
 
Here's some of the basics.
if you want to stop faster- get stickier tires.
if you want to stop a little bit faster- get better pads and stickier tires
if you want to stop multiple times during a short amount of time- get better pads, slotted rotors, and stickier tires.
if you want to stop multiple times in a short period of time and have consistent braking distances- get a BBK ,higher temp tolerate brake fluid, good race pads, and stickier tires. custom air ducting here to lower temps is also a plus

Most brake pads from the aftermarket are generally made to help braking feel better though the pedal and offers a slight increase to the heat tolerance. Not all pads are the same. Some are made to dust less, some are made to stop better cold, some are made to be used for a long period of time where consistent brake force is required when they are up at operating temperatures, in the end you'll have to find the pad that suites your needs. Same goes with the with SS brake lines, as this will make the brake pedal firmer, less mushy. This help as it reduces the flex of the brakelines when the brake fluid is moving inside the brake lines. Adding the slotted rotors will give more bite which is the initial grab during stopping. Adding larger rotors gives more heat capacity to the overall system. This will prolong the fade that comes when the brake rotors, pads, and fluid get hotter from consent heavy use. Larger calipers with multiple pistons, typically allow for more even brake pad wear and larger heat capacity. Brake ducting, where you channel air to the rotor, also helps preventing fade. When coupled with race pads, larger rotors, brake ducting, and stickier tires, allow for the car to decelerate faster, perhaps at a much later point along the track, and allows for consistent, predictable stopping distances. Now here's the long debate over slotted vs drilled rotors. In the end its how they are made. most of the bolt on stuff is mostly for show. Most of them are formed in the specific shape then drilled. same goes for most slotted rotors as well. Now look at all of the super cars. The GTR, Corvette, Porsche, Ferrari, Lamborghini, AMG, BMW, Audi, etc all use DRILLED rotors. The difference here is that they were CAST that way. You won't have to worry about stress fractures with those. Most BBK's come with slotted rotors and work great. Now since most of you guys are going off road most of what I said doesn't apply to you, but here are some key features. Pads, fluids, and rotor thickness are key to having a robust braking system. As for putting this stopping force to the ground, thats relevant to what tires you are running.
 

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