Need to buy my tundra brake upgrade TODAY

[pbcolt]

So my ebrake light has been going on during driving for the past few days. Im guessing my pads are low as I had my brake fluid flushed about a year ago. My rotors are warped so I think it's about time to buy the tundra upgrade.

I know I could spend a few hours researching or searching, but I have 2 midterms today and don't have any time.

Can someone please tell me the cheapest place to buy 231 or 199 calipers (really doesnt matter to me which, I don't do any towing). And pads and rotors. Would NAPA or a similar place be good to go to?

Thanks in advance

 

[PhdNPrerunners]

So my ebrake light has been going on during driving for the past few days. Im guessing my pads are low as I had my brake fluid flushed about a year ago. My rotors are warped so I think it's about time to buy the tundra upgrade.

I know I could spend a few hours researching or searching, but I have 2 midterms today and don't have any time.

Can someone please tell me the cheapest place to buy 231 or 199 calipers (really doesnt matter to me which, I don't do any towing). And pads and rotors. Would NAPA or a similar place be good to go to?

Thanks in advance

I remember seeing a member on here picking up a set of calipers off amazon for really cheap. I would check there if I were you. I need to do this mod also cause my breaks are starting to squeak

 

[LexusFTW]

I picked up a complete set of front brakes including rotors, calipers, pads, lines from an 04 Tundra for $100 at a salvage yard. That would be the cheapest thing to do.

 

[CO_FlyFisher]

That was me that got 'em off of Amazon for $58 each shipped. Look here.

Unfortunately, they're charging $34 shipping again (included in the price; ie its not a separate charge), so they're $92.41 each now. Still a decent deal, as they don't have a core charge to dork around with. However, the FRC11039 (left side I believe) direct from amazon says it won't ship for 5-8 weeks...

FYI: If you're e-brake light is coming on, that doesn't necessarily mean your brakes are messed up. As far as I'm aware, the only thing that makes that light come on is the switch on the e-brake (someone PLEASE correct me otherwise). Mine was giving me problems like that and it turns out that the switch had gotten loose and wasn't closing when the e-brake handle was down all the way. Simple fix.

 

[Nelsonmd]

FYI: If you're e-brake light is coming on, that doesn't necessarily mean your brakes are messed up. As far as I'm aware, the only thing that makes that light come on is the switch on the e-brake (someone PLEASE correct me otherwise). Mine was giving me problems like that and it turns out that the switch had gotten loose and wasn't closing when the e-brake handle was down all the way. Simple fix.

Mine turned on when I had just gotten my axle back in, but hadn't mounted the e-brake lines yet. Not sure if it was reading no tension or something, but it seemed odd to me. It turned off as soon as I mounted the line supports and it got tension.

 

[pbcolt]

That was me that got 'em off of Amazon for $58 each shipped. Look here.

Unfortunately, they're charging $34 shipping again (included in the price; ie its not a separate charge), so they're $92.41 each now. Still a decent deal, as they don't have a core charge to dork around with. However, the FRC11039 (left side I believe) direct from amazon says it won't ship for 5-8 weeks...

FYI: If you're e-brake light is coming on, that doesn't necessarily mean your brakes are messed up. As far as I'm aware, the only thing that makes that light come on is the switch on the e-brake (someone PLEASE correct me otherwise). Mine was giving me problems like that and it turns out that the switch had gotten loose and wasn't closing when the e-brake handle was down all the way. Simple fix.

well hopefully it's just that...how would i go about fixing it?

 

[Gerdo]

well hopefully it's just that...how would i go about fixing it?

The "Brake" light does come on when the e-brake is applied but also comes on when the fluid is low (there is a float/switch inside the master cylinder reservoir). Fluid gets "low" when the brake pads wear and the fluid takes up the voids in the wheel cylinders. Add brake fluid to the full mark and this should take care of the light.

 

[pbcolt]

The "Brake" light does come on when the e-brake is applied but also comes on when the fluid is low (there is a float/switch inside the master cylinder reservoir). Fluid gets "low" when the brake pads wear and the fluid takes up the voids in the wheel cylinders. Add brake fluid to the full mark and this should take care of the light.

cool, ill give that a shot. Thanks gerdo!

 

[CO_FlyFisher]

The "Brake" light does come on when the e-brake is applied but also comes on when the fluid is low (there is a float/switch inside the master cylinder reservoir). Fluid gets "low" when the brake pads wear and the fluid takes up the voids in the wheel cylinders. Add brake fluid to the full mark and this should take care of the light.

Good to know, I'll remember that. I wonder if there are other switches somewhere then? (I'm not aware of any)

I know that my problem was the switch mounted to the e-brake lever which was loose, so check that too. Even though it is still nice and tight now, it still flashes on every so often while driving for some odd reason (I know my brake fluid is OK). I'm guessing the ground contact needs cleaning now.

 

[LINY4Runner]

The light can also come on from the rear brakes being seriously out of adjustment.

 

[CO_FlyFisher]

The light can also come on from the rear brakes being seriously out of adjustment.

Please elaborate. There are not sensors of any kind on the rear axle except for ABS. How would the truck "know" that?

 

[LINY4Runner]

Please elaborate. There are not sensors of any kind on the rear axle except for ABS. How would the truck "know" that?

The shifter is held down by the cable tension...If it's out of adjustment, the shifter may not be held down tight enough, tripping the light.