I have an 87 4Runner 4X4, manual 5 speed trans with the automatic locking front hubs. I am going to tow it 60 miles home from the deer lease 4-wheels down as it is already set-up to be towed and it came with a nice tow bar. I plan to tow it with the battery disconnected, the key to the on position with the transmission and transfer case in neutral. Is this the right way to do it? There seems to be a lot of different opinions on this subject on the net and the truck did not come with an owner's manual. I can disconnect the driveshaft(s) if needed. Thanks.
Need to tow my 87 4Runner
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Chuckles89
New member
I think with an auto, you need to drop the rear driveshaft.
Edit: Oops, I read auto hubs as auto transmission... You don't need to take off the driveshaft
Edit: Oops, I read auto hubs as auto transmission... You don't need to take off the driveshaft
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Cali 4runner
New member
I have heard its a good idea to disconnect the rear driveshaft so the transfer case doesn't break
gtgt_bangbang
New member
why de connect the battery ? cant think of a reason to bother.
I know you have a stick, and neutral towing is fine, the reason stick and auto are different is the auto fluid pump not operating in the toad, something internal could run dry. No pump required in a manual.
That brings me to to my real comment; I've always wondered about towing a automatic with driveshaft installed, but RUNNING THE TOAD IN NEUTRAL with MOTOR RUNNING IDLE. The trans pump should do just fine in that case. Idle burns about roughly 1 cup = 6 minutes. Easier than doing a shaft install when you reach deer camp. Technically ( to abide the Mfg'rs instructions) you dont even have to run it the WHOLE time, for instance OFF at the low speed / in-town sections. Just pull over and fire it up at the On Ramp. Thats less risky regarding overheating.
Not that pulling the shaft is much trouble, but there is a point I would rather waste some gas in the toad , than yank / install the shaft.
Also there is some fluid leak when the shaft is pulled, if yours requires pulling the yoke out ( not all thes shafts REQUIRE that, some are bolt up joints in front too) and dirt gets up there, etc. There is a SST plug made to close off the output of a trany with the shaft pulled, I never saw one in RL, not sure how hard to find. You could always "make" one from the front yoke of a scrap shaft, too.
last, a van load of us coming done a very long slope shut off the eng / auto trans. We were doing 60~80 for at least 1/2 hour without a drop of gas. Started the engine when some one piped up about the "dry tow" analogy. Never noticed any issues afterward, for what thats worth. I would guess like most other 'manufacturers warning" that the "town no more than 30 MPH for 30 miles" rule of thumb is quite conservative
I know you have a stick, and neutral towing is fine, the reason stick and auto are different is the auto fluid pump not operating in the toad, something internal could run dry. No pump required in a manual.
That brings me to to my real comment; I've always wondered about towing a automatic with driveshaft installed, but RUNNING THE TOAD IN NEUTRAL with MOTOR RUNNING IDLE. The trans pump should do just fine in that case. Idle burns about roughly 1 cup = 6 minutes. Easier than doing a shaft install when you reach deer camp. Technically ( to abide the Mfg'rs instructions) you dont even have to run it the WHOLE time, for instance OFF at the low speed / in-town sections. Just pull over and fire it up at the On Ramp. Thats less risky regarding overheating.
Not that pulling the shaft is much trouble, but there is a point I would rather waste some gas in the toad , than yank / install the shaft.
Also there is some fluid leak when the shaft is pulled, if yours requires pulling the yoke out ( not all thes shafts REQUIRE that, some are bolt up joints in front too) and dirt gets up there, etc. There is a SST plug made to close off the output of a trany with the shaft pulled, I never saw one in RL, not sure how hard to find. You could always "make" one from the front yoke of a scrap shaft, too.
last, a van load of us coming done a very long slope shut off the eng / auto trans. We were doing 60~80 for at least 1/2 hour without a drop of gas. Started the engine when some one piped up about the "dry tow" analogy. Never noticed any issues afterward, for what thats worth. I would guess like most other 'manufacturers warning" that the "town no more than 30 MPH for 30 miles" rule of thumb is quite conservative
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gtgt_bangbang
New member
"disconnecting rear DS is best (just at the diff) and an absolute must with an auto trans."
in general agree ... but
1) disconnect the drive shaft on one side means you MUST tie the shaft up dead nutz securely, not always as easy as it sounds, or you would be better off just taking the whole thing off. if it comes down , or worse slides out, thats a Bad Thing. If it contacts the spinning (driven) input flange to the diff, that should be pretty ugly too.
2) what is the non-starter of running the Toad at idle for a tow period? I would probably trade a gallon of gas and another hour of low speed time on the motor for not having to detach / reattach the shaft.
Might want to check a few times early of for any possible overheating
in general agree ... but
1) disconnect the drive shaft on one side means you MUST tie the shaft up dead nutz securely, not always as easy as it sounds, or you would be better off just taking the whole thing off. if it comes down , or worse slides out, thats a Bad Thing. If it contacts the spinning (driven) input flange to the diff, that should be pretty ugly too.
2) what is the non-starter of running the Toad at idle for a tow period? I would probably trade a gallon of gas and another hour of low speed time on the motor for not having to detach / reattach the shaft.
Might want to check a few times early of for any possible overheating
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This is the way that I towed it down to the ranch (Transmission in neutral and transfer case in 2WD HI. I had no problems, but I have seen a lot of people recommend the transfer case be in neutral too. I am just afraid that during the tow it may accidentally slip into 4WD if the Transfer case is in neutral. The prior owner always pulled the rear drive shaft to tow, but I did not think it was necessary. I will only tow for 60 miles and will keep the speeds at 50-55mph. It has only been sitting for a week (the alternator is bad).
Thanks to everyone for the help.
The reason that I disconnect the pos battery terminal is so that I can keep the key in the ON position (so the steering whell doesn't lock while I'm towing it) without running the battery down. I have a towing light set for the 4 Runner that has all lights so it is just like towing a trailer.
fourwd1
Moderator
When you put your t-case into Neutral, you pass through 4 HI first. So the case is in 4WD, but disconnected from the trans. Therefore if you haven't disconnected your rear DS, the rear wheels are turning the rear DS, which drives the rear AND front sections of the t-case, which drives the front DS and diff and axle shafts.
In in response to a comment a couple of posts above, of course you'd have to secure the DS end up to the frame.
Would you drive down the street with it dragging?
Takes 5 seconds and a bungee cord.
flyinhawaiian01
New member
So, this does not quite fit the scenario for the OP, but I thought I'd put this here in case anyone else is looking for answers...
True story! Yes, I personally did this one!!!
Blew a motor many years ago while heading to Oregon from SoCal. Ended up having to tow it from Weed, CA to Portland, OR, via a U-haul and a tow dolly. I thought I'd be smart, not thinking this all the way through, and just stuffed the manual tranny into neutral, then shifted the transfer case over to neutral also.
Boy, was that a complete disaster! I am completely surprised I didn't blow something up! When transfer case is in neutral, it is in 4WD NEUTRAL! This means, the front shaft and rear shaft are locked together! Yep, that means I towed the truck about 30 minutes with both shafts spinning! It didn't try to drive off the dolly only because I didn't have the front hubs locked in, but the whole underside of the truck was covered in gear oil from the front diff breather! It pissed almost all of the oil up and out the tube!
So, do not EVER use neutral on the transfer case when towing! It may not be as much of an issue with the front wheels on the pavement, but why even chance it?
I ended up crawling underneath and unbolting the rear shaft, strapping it to the frame, and continued on the journey from hell with no further mishaps.:doh:
True story! Yes, I personally did this one!!!
Blew a motor many years ago while heading to Oregon from SoCal. Ended up having to tow it from Weed, CA to Portland, OR, via a U-haul and a tow dolly. I thought I'd be smart, not thinking this all the way through, and just stuffed the manual tranny into neutral, then shifted the transfer case over to neutral also.
Boy, was that a complete disaster! I am completely surprised I didn't blow something up! When transfer case is in neutral, it is in 4WD NEUTRAL! This means, the front shaft and rear shaft are locked together! Yep, that means I towed the truck about 30 minutes with both shafts spinning! It didn't try to drive off the dolly only because I didn't have the front hubs locked in, but the whole underside of the truck was covered in gear oil from the front diff breather! It pissed almost all of the oil up and out the tube!
So, do not EVER use neutral on the transfer case when towing! It may not be as much of an issue with the front wheels on the pavement, but why even chance it?
I ended up crawling underneath and unbolting the rear shaft, strapping it to the frame, and continued on the journey from hell with no further mishaps.:doh:
gtgt_bangbang
New member
well HECK why didnt you say so ?!?!?!
IF the whole issue is the alternator, bring a decent battery and drive it home.
Skip the lights and radio, and you should get an hour of spark from a good batt.
Cut or remove the alternator belt off if its locked up.
bada boom
IF the whole issue is the alternator, bring a decent battery and drive it home.
Skip the lights and radio, and you should get an hour of spark from a good batt.
Cut or remove the alternator belt off if its locked up.
bada boom
I think I'll do that LOL! I'll buy a New battery to replace the Good one that I already have, then I'll drive my truck and the battery 60 miles to the ranch and replace the current Good battery with the New Good battery, then I'll drive the 4Runner and both batteries (one under the hood and one in the back) home 60 miles and replace the Bad alternator and belt that I cut off with a Good one and remove the New Good battery and replace it with the Old Good battery (did I mention that it is still Good?), then I'll drive the 4Runner another 60 miles back to the ranch and pick up my truck that has been sitting out there in the middle of nowhere while I had the ranch vehicle at home fixing it (which had better be quick if I plan to use it to commute back and forth to work (unless I plan to alternate batteries-one for the ride to work and one for the ride home), then drive my truck 60 miles home.....Sounds like a plan...not much extra effort at all and I get to purchase a New battery and a New belt in addition to a New alternator...I don't know why I didn't think of this first...much easier than just disconnecting a battery terminal, turning the key on, slapping the tranny in neutral and towing her home. :crazy:
gtgt_bangbang
New member
we aim to please. my head is swimming with all the details but good luck anyway.
Bring a charger & extension cord in case my estimates are a little off.
It would prob rock you world that I snagged a nearly new reman Denso 210-0108 from the bone yard , looks like dreadedpreviousowner wrecked it on the trial run after of a new alternator or something. It wont fit my truck but I couldnt pass it up cos some one will value it.
I am on the wrong side of the country I think to make a great deal on it but , no harm in saying.
true this; I'm married to a phenomena woman, and our relationship basically started walking home from a trip out county, when my Toyota du jour running on a dead alternator & sacrificial battery died for the day.
Immoral of the Story Bring a friend along, you never know where or woo might pitch up. Chicks dig un-phase-able mechanics.
The little Corolla stick with Flintstone floors boards ( rusted out, hugely) and somehow 15" snow tires on back that was unstoppable, going places 4runners fear to tread, mostly cos it was definitely expendable. Was cleaned exactly once all the while I had it, stalled half way driving through an Ozark river. Filled up with water to the seats and started feeling rather light on its feet so I opened both doors to cut down the Sail effect and the flow carried out all the junk.
I had kept my powder dry if you know what I mean and after a relaxing bowl, the ignition dried enough to start but it was stuck, so I put my Emergency Brick on the gas pedal, dumped it into first, jumped out to push it out solo then dove back in at the far bank
Bring a charger & extension cord in case my estimates are a little off.
It would prob rock you world that I snagged a nearly new reman Denso 210-0108 from the bone yard , looks like dreadedpreviousowner wrecked it on the trial run after of a new alternator or something. It wont fit my truck but I couldnt pass it up cos some one will value it.
I am on the wrong side of the country I think to make a great deal on it but , no harm in saying.
true this; I'm married to a phenomena woman, and our relationship basically started walking home from a trip out county, when my Toyota du jour running on a dead alternator & sacrificial battery died for the day.
Immoral of the Story Bring a friend along, you never know where or woo might pitch up. Chicks dig un-phase-able mechanics.
The little Corolla stick with Flintstone floors boards ( rusted out, hugely) and somehow 15" snow tires on back that was unstoppable, going places 4runners fear to tread, mostly cos it was definitely expendable. Was cleaned exactly once all the while I had it, stalled half way driving through an Ozark river. Filled up with water to the seats and started feeling rather light on its feet so I opened both doors to cut down the Sail effect and the flow carried out all the junk.
I had kept my powder dry if you know what I mean and after a relaxing bowl, the ignition dried enough to start but it was stuck, so I put my Emergency Brick on the gas pedal, dumped it into first, jumped out to push it out solo then dove back in at the far bank
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