New $200 4Runner Owner

KevinM

New member
This is my first 4 runner that I bought for 200 bucks. It is a 95 SR5 3.0 manual with a blown head gasket. Little to no rust. I bought it from my boss who bought a new Sequoia and didn't want to mess with the 4runner. Win for me. I have already checked to see if the head gasket had been replaced by Toyota and it had in 1998. There is a steering recall that I will get completed once I get her running.

Does anyone have any good recommendations on the best place to source the gasket kit. I have done some research but see mixed opinions. Seems Felpro is frowned upon.
 

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Any quality kit is fine.

Rockauto has 3.0 HG kits cheap...

Score for 200. Body looks to be in great shape!:boink:
 
Hell yeah thats a steal, you could flip it for a few thousand even if you didnt want to keep it. But once you drive a second gen you will be hooked for life :)
 
While loading on the trailer it would start with a jump (dead battery) and idle fine. As soon as I would press the brake it died. Is this linked to the head gasket or is it a seperate vaccuum or brake booster issue?

I spent alot of time working on Jeeps but this is my first T4R.
 
$200 for that is definitely a steal--well done! I'd buy one in that shape with NOTHING under the hood (for $200, that is). The engine dying under braking is almost certainly a vacuum leak to the booster--the engine should keep running with just the head gasket issue. Keep us posted as you progress.
 
Ive heard a lot of crap about Fel-pro with these motors too. My Dad recommended Fel-pro so thats what I went with. Ive read somewhere and I could be mistaken that Toyota actually asked Fel-pro to help design a new gasket because the 3.0 were popping them like crazy.

Since then and 10k miles later the fel-pro gasket is still fine. I would highly recommend wrapping the exhaust collector with exhaust wrap next to the firewall on the driver side. I went one step further and made a heat shield to protect the head from the heat of the collector. Cylinder #6 will be the one to fail 90% of the time in my opinion.
 
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Does anyone notice something missing in the pulley pic? I found a broken belt lying on the front skid plate this morning. What does the missing belt go to?

Also, The oil that I drained was not milky and it didn't smoke upon startup. Could it be that the original owner thought it was a head gasket and it might just be a valve cover gasket? Is there a definitive way to tell if it is the head gasket?
 

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Does anyone notice something missing in the pulley pic? I found a broken belt lying on the front skid plate this morning. What does the missing belt go to?

Also, The oil that I drained was not milky and it didn't smoke upon startup. Could it be that the original owner thought it was a head gasket and it might just be a valve cover gasket? Is there a definitive way to tell if it is the head gasket?



Check your oil for coolant, and check your coolant for oil. A blown headgasket allows the two to mix, hence when you crank her up a ton of white smoke will billow out of the exhaust. A leakly valve cover gasket just leaks oil, usually onto the exhaust manifold and down.


http://youtu.be/w7I4SBtdcjo

watch that link, thats a bad HG
 
Does anyone notice something missing in the pulley pic? I found a broken belt lying on the front skid plate this morning. What does the missing belt go to?

Also, The oil that I drained was not milky and it didn't smoke upon startup. Could it be that the original owner thought it was a head gasket and it might just be a valve cover gasket? Is there a definitive way to tell if it is the head gasket?

=
Start with a compression test and a coolant system pressure test. With compression, consistency between cylinders is more important than the absolute number.
 
Time to begin replacing the head gasket. I have never replaced one before but have spent lots of time under the hood of numerous jeeps. Any tips and advice are wanted and welcomed. Here is my current plan...

1. Spend tons of time on this forum learning what to do and what not to do regarding this repair. Check

2.Acquire FSM for proper specs. Check

3. Order parts from engnbldr.com

4. Pre-soak everything in PB blaster about a week in advance. Check. No need for this step because this thing seems to be "self lubricating"

5. Buy paint marker to label everything. Check

6. Find what caused the vehicle to run hot in the first place. Check. Faulty Radiator.

7. Hide all expenses from the wife. Check and Double Check.

8. Take lots of pics for reference and to update forum.

9.Remove hood and get dirty. Check.
 
I think you've about got it covered. Double the amount of time you think it's going to take you, and don't forget the beer and pizza breaks.
 

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