New 3rd gen owner. Lift questions

[tre9er]

1) invest in adjustable bilsteins,
Front Bilstein Height adjustable 5100 shocks
because once you get to the height you are looking for (1.5 - 2.0") you'll want to go higher.
2) rough country N2.0's for the rears work and their affordable
3) used '99 talls + the bilsteins will get you to 2"
4) used '99 talls + a 1.5"(Daystar) for the rear will work fine for mild off-roading, camping.
5) NO diff drop ever (my 2c)
6) No panhard drop needed
7) NO UCA's
8) extend the rear brake line
I have read that some members have been able to keep the stock rear brake line, but I personally had to change mine out.
it may take a few months to piece together everything but, like downpour said, search the forums for used stuff. also check out wheelers off road, great prices and great people
95.5-Current Toyota 4Runner Equipment and Accessories at Wheeler's Off-Road
That was my first setup and it worked for me.
'99 talls add 1" to all non-'99 stock 4r's
the rears need to be a little taller than the fronts to compensate for gear.
Follow this plan and you'll get the lift you want and be prepared for the future.
laters

I thought about the use of spacers in one way or another, I just worried they'd cause sag or affect the shock life after a while...

What would the 99 talls w/spacers do to my OEM (just replaced) rear shocks, while I save for longer traveling shocks? Are the N2.0's as stuff as the OME's or are they comparable to Bilys, which I've heard are softer?

 

[drabbits]

spacers shouldn't be thought of as a long term thing, just use em till you can afford to upgrade. this way you'll get the clearance to do things off the black top. also, spacers don't cause sag, worn springs cause sag which takes years. I'm not sure what the travel is on you're new shocks, but since you won't be flexing the rear much i would give it a go till you can upgrade to the rough country long travels. . . the '99's use the same shocks as the other years, yet sit 1" taller, I really don't think it'll hurt adding another 1.5"
I don't have the N2.0's, I have the older version and I like the ride and price. I have heard too many times the OME's are too stiff, while the bilstein 5125's are great, but it'll cost you.
I don't have any personal experience to compare the 3, but the rough country's have been better than stock.

 

[4yotaguy]

I know a lot about performance cars, street racing, racing, Euro, and other car stuff, but I don't know squat about the 4wd truck scene; this thread is awesome, lots of questions answered so thanks! I am in a similar position, want my truck to gain more capability, yet retain a day-to-day driveability so all almost all my questions were answered here.

I do have one question...I am thinking of doing the ultimate lift kit, and plan to install new f & r armor, so I will eventually need the HD springs to support the additional weight. Can I install the lift with the HD springs, waiting to save for the armor/extra weight or will the light weight be too problematic for a few months? Just checkin....

 

[downpour11]

I do have one question...I am thinking of doing the ultimate lift kit, and plan to install new f & r armor, so I will eventually need the HD springs to support the additional weight. Can I install the lift with the HD springs, waiting to save for the armor/extra weight or will the light weight be too problematic for a few months? Just checkin....

Yup, sure can. No issues.

 

[4yotaguy]

Yup, sure can. No issues.

Sweet, thanks man! Your first post on this was really crystal clear and informative, thanks again!

 

[tre9er]

Strongly considering RC rears with OME coils to get to 2-3", and bily adjustables up front. Can I use bilys on third perch with stock up front to get lift or is that a no-no? Just for now

 

[xcmtb83]

Since you do have one of the lowest factory heights in the 3rd gen you might want to consider the 1999 tall coils with air bags to adjust for changing cargo weights and or trailering. Another option that would yield similar "mild" results and is the lift I am leaning towards for sake of practicality would be the OME 880 and 906 coil combo. I was told by Toytec I would end up with 21" in the front and 22" in the rear. This measurement is from the center of the wheel up to the top of the wheel well opening. This is the preferred method of measurement in regards to lift comparisons as it leaves out the tire diameter variable.

 

[tre9er]

Since you do have one of the lowest factory heights in the 3rd gen you might want to consider the 1999 tall coils with air bags to adjust for changing cargo weights and or trailering. Another option that would yield similar "mild" results and is the lift I am leaning towards for sake of practicality would be the OME 880 and 906 coil combo. I was told by Toytec I would end up with 21" in the front and 22" in the rear. This measurement is from the center of the wheel up to the top of the wheel well opening. This is the preferred method of measurement in regards to lift comparisons as it leaves out the tire diameter variable.

I'm at about 20" rear and 19.5" front right now, so that sounds like a good lift. Probably going to TRY to be patient and see what opportunities present themselves to me.

 

[JayRolla]

THis guys admits too street racing! Thats for punks, people like you are the ones that kill kids walkin on the streets. Take the race too the TRACK!!!

 

[tre9er]

THis guys admits too street racing! Thats for punks, people like you are the ones that kill kids walkin on the streets. Take the race too the TRACK!!!

wha????????

 

[white_n_slow]

Refering to post #23. 4toyaguy

If you are actually into street racing, you better keep it to yourself or find yourself another forum. If you are saying it to sound cool, think of something else, because that's like saying you're a hard core drunk driver or something.

 

[tre9er]

So I found some 99 tall rears for $75 shipped, 88k miles on them. Still need to find fronts, but might pull trigger on these rears soon. I hope they do give me over 1" or else I'll probably feel like I paid and spent time installing them for very little gain...then again I might feel that way anyway...

I have about 20" hub-to-well rear and 19.5" front. Just can't afford shocks/struts right now or else I'd probably look at a bigger lift. Down the road, can I use bily adjustables with the 99 tall fronts (raising the perches) and then get some OME's with some longer travel shocks in the rear? I haven't seen anyone mention using the adjustables with "stock" springs before.

 

[Atrox Caeda]

So I found some 99 tall rears for $75 shipped, 88k miles on them. Still need to find fronts, but might pull trigger on these rears soon. I hope they do give me over 1" or else I'll probably feel like I paid and spent time installing them for very little gain...then again I might feel that way anyway...

I have about 20" hub-to-well rear and 19.5" front. Just can't afford shocks/struts right now or else I'd probably look at a bigger lift. Down the road, can I use bily adjustables with the 99 tall fronts (raising the perches) and then get some OME's with some longer travel shocks in the rear? I haven't seen anyone mention using the adjustables with "stock" springs before.

I wouldn't waste the time on those '99 springs personally. I was able to do 7 wrap LC springs without a new panhard or brake line. You need to keep the sway bar connected but it works fine as long as you BFH the gas tank skid which WILL CONTACT YOUR DRIVE SHAFT under full flex. I got new shocks, ES9000, which were not too bad $$$ wise. The guys at 4WheelParts were, for the first time helpful, at finding the part that would match the length I needed and mounting style top and bottom. I believe the part # is for a lifted Land Cruiser, FJ80. I was able to get the LC7 wraps for $60 locally and the shocks for about $80. Total cost for rear was under $150 and lifted a total of 3.5". Installing it is a pain in the ass depending on how many jacks you have and how many hands will help you. It's not terrible but not worth doing a bunch of times.

For the front I can't give as much advice on an inexpensive set up since I went the coilover route. With that said you can use any lift application from a Tacoma so if you want to peruse Craigslist or other Yota forums for parts in your area, that stuff works the same on both vehicles. You don't have to do a diff drop 3" and under. It is only a good idea. It's necessary passed 3". You could also do a spacer so you can keep all your stock suspension and just make it leveled out with the rear. It won't have any greater performance besides the lift, but you can save a lot of money that way. Front spacer lift from Toytec is $140 new (tons of used ones out there for cheaper) for a 2.5" which is the height I have my coilovers set up at. That gives me enough room for 33's and an inch higher rear which is necessary for a heavier load, ie. camping gear and children. Your CV axle boots WILL TEAR do to the lift, so you might as well change them when your in there but not necessary. Total front lift price is $140 (new, less if used).

Total cost is $280ish.

Hope that helped.

 

[tre9er]

I wouldn't waste the time on those '99 springs personally. I was able to do 7 wrap LC springs without a new panhard or brake line. You need to keep the sway bar connected but it works fine as long as you BFH the gas tank skid which WILL CONTACT YOUR DRIVE SHAFT under full flex. I got new shocks, ES9000, which were not too bad $$$ wise. The guys at 4WheelParts were, for the first time helpful, at finding the part that would match the length I needed and mounting style top and bottom. I believe the part # is for a lifted Land Cruiser, FJ80. I was able to get the LC7 wraps for $60 locally and the shocks for about $80. Total cost for rear was under $150 and lifted a total of 3.5". Installing it is a pain in the ass depending on how many jacks you have and how many hands will help you. It's not terrible but not worth doing a bunch of times.

Any idea what your hub-to-well measurement in the rear is with those LC7's? I wanted to go that way, and TRD fronts w/bily adjustables, but was worried about all the other mods and that wife would flip out at a larger lift. She'll force me to keep the running boards anyway, though.

 

[4yotaguy]

Refering to post #23. 4toyaguy

If you are actually into street racing, you better keep it to yourself or find yourself another forum. If you are saying it to sound cool, think of something else, because that's like saying you're a hard core drunk driver or something.

Naw man, those days were a long, long time ago, in a land far away...I'm way too old and smart to play games on the road now. I was doing a lot of track time before I hurt my back a few years ago though.

I mentioned it only to highlight that although I was a tech, and understand cars, the truck scene is completely different and I have a lot to learn- it was a humbling statement, not to sound cool, but to show respect for this scene and my interest here.

 

[Atrox Caeda]

Any idea what your hub-to-well measurement in the rear is with those LC7's? I wanted to go that way, and TRD fronts w/bily adjustables, but was worried about all the other mods and that wife would flip out at a larger lift. She'll force me to keep the running boards anyway, though.

Ok I lied... I forgot they are the 8 wraps, the wheel well to center hub measures 23.5". Fits my 255/85R16s no problem... however under full flex the tires rub the rear bumper... which is going to happen with any tire over 32". Hope that helps!

 

[tre9er]

Ok I lied... I forgot they are the 8 wraps, the wheel well to center hub measures 23.5". Fits my 255/85R16s no problem... however under full flex the tires rub the rear bumper... which is going to happen with any tire over 32". Hope that helps!

That would be 3.5" for me, of course I'm measuring to flare, so it could be closer to 4". I may go that way down the road. I'm doing a cheaper rear lift for now but a scalable bilstein front lift.

 

[Atrox Caeda]

That would be 3.5" for me, of course I'm measuring to flare, so it could be closer to 4". I may go that way down the road. I'm doing a cheaper rear lift for now but a scalable bilstein front lift.

It was exactly 3.5" for me, same as you once the springs settled in a day or so. You are going to want at least 1" higher rear than front just for ride comfort and cargo weight. Good luck!