Danthefitman
New member
That’s awesome to hear. Mine shows a delivery estimate of 12/27 :/
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New 5th Gen Roof Rack Now Available (Full & Standard Length) | Victory 4x4
- Thread starter Victory 4x4
- Start date
That’s awesome to hear. Mine shows a delivery estimate of 12/27 :/
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aesthetics
New member
Mine came with perfect power coat no blemishes except the one I caused cutting the wrapping projection and accidentally nicked it.
Some tips
Put the wind deflector rubber on first before even hooking it to the side rails.
If you're gonna put light bar on mount it to the mounting brackets first as its very hard to screw the lightbar stud once everything up.
Make sure to use the RTV liberally including the inside of the screw hole. When you're doing this, crack the window open as the RTV smell leeches inside the cab once you inject down the screw holes.
Very easy to put together.
Next up replacing all the button heads with security screws. Got an order with mcmaster carr now.
Some tips
Put the wind deflector rubber on first before even hooking it to the side rails.
If you're gonna put light bar on mount it to the mounting brackets first as its very hard to screw the lightbar stud once everything up.
Make sure to use the RTV liberally including the inside of the screw hole. When you're doing this, crack the window open as the RTV smell leeches inside the cab once you inject down the screw holes.
Very easy to put together.
Next up replacing all the button heads with security screws. Got an order with mcmaster carr now.
agentcross
New member
Security screws..that’s a good idea
Danthefitman
New member
Got mine installed yesterday! Very happy with the build quality, and the ease of install. Packaging was top notch! I do have 2 small bare spots on the side rails, what spray would ya'll recommend to use to touch up those two spots?
Can you send a link to the security screws that you ordered?
agentcross
New member
They told me rustoleum textured black!
Danthefitman
New member
I don’t have a sunroof so I can’t speak to it personally but looking at the top of the rack I don’t think it would be a problem. Especially since the slots where the cross bars go allow for adjustability.
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aesthetics
New member
1/4"-20 x 3/4" Spanner Drive Pan Head Grade 18-8 Stainless Steel Security Machine Screw
| Fastenal
or
McMaster-Carr
I'm using spanner drive screws, but you can get any that's 1/4"-20 x 3/4"
agentcross
New member
Yup. I’ve got it installed on my sunroof. I can send pics if needed
Danthefitman
New member
Thanks! Going to get some myself.
Here’s how he sits so far with my ghetto rigged L bracket awning mounts until my brackets arrive.
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CementTruck
Member
Just wanted to offer some advice to anyone mounting something to this rack that spans the entire length.
For reference, I have the full Victory 4x4 rack and mounted the ARB2500 (8.2ft) awning. This awning weighs 30ish pounds and is over a foot longer than the rack, so I chose my two mounting points to be the rear-most crossbar and the front-most crossbar. Everything installed perfectly! Then it was time to hit the trails where I instantly realized my mistake. Due to the front mounts of the rack NOT being bolted to the roof, on every bump I drove over, the front of the rack shimmied left and right, effectively rubbing the roof and making loud squeaking noises. This is due to there being lateral flex from the middle mounting point of the roof to where the rubber feet and fairing touch the car. So whenever I hit a bump, the heavy awning would shimmy and bring the front of the rack with it (again since I mounted the front of the awning to the front-most crossbar).
So here’s my advice. If you’re mounting something long like an awning, move the front mounting point closer to the middle crossbar (where the rack is bolted to the roof). I adjusted mine yesterday after the trails and so far it’s removed the rack shimmy, but I’ll know more once I get back off-road. Additionally, I’ll be bolting down flat metal bars (available at Home Depot) in an X shape on top of the rack to create triangular stability between the rear and front of the rack. This should make the entire thing solid, as in you wouldn’t be able to replicate the shimmy by hand like you can now.
On a side note, I used Victory’s awning mounts and they are pretty awesome. It’s such a clean install and they mount really well to the crossbars. Highly recommended.
For reference, I have the full Victory 4x4 rack and mounted the ARB2500 (8.2ft) awning. This awning weighs 30ish pounds and is over a foot longer than the rack, so I chose my two mounting points to be the rear-most crossbar and the front-most crossbar. Everything installed perfectly! Then it was time to hit the trails where I instantly realized my mistake. Due to the front mounts of the rack NOT being bolted to the roof, on every bump I drove over, the front of the rack shimmied left and right, effectively rubbing the roof and making loud squeaking noises. This is due to there being lateral flex from the middle mounting point of the roof to where the rubber feet and fairing touch the car. So whenever I hit a bump, the heavy awning would shimmy and bring the front of the rack with it (again since I mounted the front of the awning to the front-most crossbar).
So here’s my advice. If you’re mounting something long like an awning, move the front mounting point closer to the middle crossbar (where the rack is bolted to the roof). I adjusted mine yesterday after the trails and so far it’s removed the rack shimmy, but I’ll know more once I get back off-road. Additionally, I’ll be bolting down flat metal bars (available at Home Depot) in an X shape on top of the rack to create triangular stability between the rear and front of the rack. This should make the entire thing solid, as in you wouldn’t be able to replicate the shimmy by hand like you can now.
On a side note, I used Victory’s awning mounts and they are pretty awesome. It’s such a clean install and they mount really well to the crossbars. Highly recommended.
Danthefitman
New member
Good advice. I have an ARB2000 awning. My Victory awning mounts have not been delivered yet, but I used 3 L brackets from Lowe's to secure mine until my mounts come in. I dont like the idea of only having 2 mounting points so I might rig up a DIY 3rd point to go with the two Victory mounts. How much higher do the awning mounts sit than the top of the roof rack. My concern is not being able to get into my 7ft garage with the awning mounts installed.
CementTruck
Member
If you do only go with 2 mounting points via the Victory awning mounts, I think you'll be good. I'm currently on only 2 points and using the rear-most bar for the rear, and the next bar forward from the center rack, if that makes sense. Especially since you've got the ARB2000, I think those two points would be just fine since it works for my 2500. Also, compared to your pic from earlier, the Victory mounts are lower by an inch or two. I have pictures to share but I've been struggling to get my links/codes to post properly.
Please do! I'd love to see how it looks with the sunroof open.
dezertbomber
New member
This again shows they need to move the front mounts into the rain gutter like the other racks do. If they use strong 3M adhesive in the gutter, it'd be pretty solid.
I finally got to spraying silicone lubricant under each contact point of the RTT's rails and the squeaking is FINALLY gone lol. It's a mess now though as I had to spray from the edge of the rack's side panels toward the middle and it got everywhere, plus it slowly makes it way to the bolts on the outside of the panel and runs down. I've wiped it like 3x and it keeps coming. Worth it though as the noise was ridiculous.
For their awning mounts, how does the mount attach to the crossbars? Could you take some pics of that please? Thanks
CementTruck
Member
Finally got the image tags to work! Ok, first pic shows how the Victory awning mounts attach to the rack. These are solid, heavy, and fit nice and tight. There are four included pieces of hardware for each mount and they screw down to the side tracks of the crossbars.
Second pic shows how high the awning sits above the rack. Also note that it sits a couple inches away from the rack, which allows it to move further toward the back without hitting the tailgate in the open position; this also allows the long 8.2ft awning to not hang so far over the windshield up front.
Second pic shows how high the awning sits above the rack. Also note that it sits a couple inches away from the rack, which allows it to move further toward the back without hitting the tailgate in the open position; this also allows the long 8.2ft awning to not hang so far over the windshield up front.
dezertbomber
New member
Thanks!
Might not clear my RTT, but at least I have crossbar mounting ideas for something other than the L brackets that come with awnings.
Might not clear my RTT, but at least I have crossbar mounting ideas for something other than the L brackets that come with awnings.
mynameistory
New member
This is the result of the design choice of using flat plane geometry for the side rails. Lots of companies are doing this because it's easy to manufacture, but there's no inherent ability to resist yaw torque when the side pieces are made of flat sheet aluminum.
The Ecotechne rack uses brake-bent side rails for added rigidity (like a beam). So even though it uses the same stock mounts (no additional mounting or drilling) it's extremely rigid and resistant to movement. I can grab the rack and shake the truck on its suspension.
CementTruck
Member
[MENTION=208721]mynameistory[/MENTION] is 100% right. The flat planes of the side rails, plus no front mounting point creates a lot of play up front. You could actually grab the front of the rack and move it side to side, which is what I was getting with the awning mounted up there. Here are my solutions to create much more rigidity.
I picked up two of these flat metal punched bars from Home Depot. They're the longest ones they had at 72" and the punched holes make for easier bolting down to the cross rails.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...ERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-204225755-_-204225774-_-N
Basically just created an X with them, and bolted them down to the front-most cross bar and angled it out to bolt down to the 3rd bar from the rear. Victory provided 4 screws and rail nuts with the rack so I used those, plus I purchased a few more to bolt them down at multiple points.
The lateral play is virtually gone. Well, seems to be gone with as much force as my 175lb frame can give it. Additionally I put the awning back on, this time using the 3rd bar from the front as the front mounting point. On the drive today with several dips and uneven pavement, so far it's silent up there. Actual trail time will tell the true story, but more to come one that.
I picked up two of these flat metal punched bars from Home Depot. They're the longest ones they had at 72" and the punched holes make for easier bolting down to the cross rails.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...ERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-204225755-_-204225774-_-N
Basically just created an X with them, and bolted them down to the front-most cross bar and angled it out to bolt down to the 3rd bar from the rear. Victory provided 4 screws and rail nuts with the rack so I used those, plus I purchased a few more to bolt them down at multiple points.
The lateral play is virtually gone. Well, seems to be gone with as much force as my 175lb frame can give it. Additionally I put the awning back on, this time using the 3rd bar from the front as the front mounting point. On the drive today with several dips and uneven pavement, so far it's silent up there. Actual trail time will tell the true story, but more to come one that.
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