https://youtu.be/1OpEONvxs2o
oh, and don't forget to check the spare for air. :yield: Couldn't help myself. One of my favorite episodes! :madgrin:
Lol. Good reminder.. It looked inflated but I didn't check the PSI.
https://youtu.be/1OpEONvxs2o
oh, and don't forget to check the spare for air. :yield: Couldn't help myself. One of my favorite episodes! :madgrin:
On my 99' SR5 drain and fill was about 5.5qt if I remember correctly. It seems like different years have different fill and drain. Drain the old TF into a bottle and pour the same amount in of new TF. That should be a good starting point. It does have a small copper washer on the pan so make sure you have something similar. I've used Redline D4 atf for 10k miles so far and no complaints.
ATF flushes are OK (only way ur TF will fail in my opinion is if it's full of friction material before flush). However they tend to be inaccurate with the amount of fluid it pumps out/pumps in. Plus it really depends on the skill and dillegence level of the mechanic (source : worked in a shop).
I do have agree on the drums...try to machine OEM drums if you can. I've purched aftermarket twice and they were warped, had to machine them at my shop.
I would also suggest you check your diff and trans fluids, as well as replace PCV valve and grommet.
Checking ball joints and state of radiator transmission cooler will be beneficial as well.
Undo the differential fill bolt. For level you should get a trickle coming out or you can stick your finger and check it, should be at or near the diff fill. Also it should be a nice gold color and not smell like rotten eggs. Same for transfer case.Thanks for the input, Trojan4x4. How do you recommend checking the diff + trans fluids? And should I be checking for qty, color, viscosity, smell, all the above?