New Callahan Calipers & Slotted/Drilled Rotors

BamaDrewski

New member
Just installed new Callahan (red powder coated) 13WE Calipers and drilled and slotted rotors. Did d a full brake fluid flush afterwards.

Very impressed with the quality of both! SIGNIFICANTLY better stopping power and not too hard to do. The 13WE Tundra caliper is the 199mm version as I wanted to keep my 16" wheels. Best thing is that with the core charge refund, I end up only paying $111 for both the *new calipers!

*New means refurbished by Callahan.......
 
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You OK with the feel of the drilled holes?

I was never crazy about the sound/feel of them, so went with just slotted on next rotors. Much better, super quite and just as strong to stop.

Luck and enjoy the runner! :cowboy:
 
I can't tell any difference in sound or noise. The holes are tapered so maybe that is it. Very heavy and thick rotors with zinc coating. I am using the Toyota OE pads for the 199mm (13WE) Tundra brake upgrade.

The old calipers (bought from Advance) were garbage rebuilds. Pistons sticking, rusting, etc. These are powder coating red and they did a real good job. Checked them all over before the install. Very pleased with the stopping power!
 
I just did the 231mm Callahan Tundra kit in black powder coating that was mentioned by another member in a different thread. I was impressed by the rebuild of the caliper - very well done. The rotors seems well-made also and the casting was very clean. Time will tell how they hold up.
 
I warped these exact rotors with ceramics in 6 months. Meanwhile, I'm running brembo blanks with semi metallics going strong for 3 years. I'd spend the extra money on better parts. Calipers are great though.
 
Planning my future Tundra upgrade and looking at parts/kits

Been following this thread and obviously have BFAD's thread bookmarked

I would prefer NOT to have DS rotors, drilled or slotted maybe, but not both; interesting to read about warping tundra rotors, in general. My question about that is, do the rotors really warp or do the pad imprint upon them unevenly (bed-in issue)
 
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My Powerstop drilled/slotted rotors warped within 6 months. I bedded them in per instructions when I first installed them. so I'm less than impressed.
 
My question about that is, do the rotors really warp or do the pad imprint upon them unevenly (bed-in issue)
I've been reading a lot about this with the same upgrade in mind. There's a lot of disagreement about what "warp" actually means - some people seem to think uneven pad deposits = warping (since it causes the braking surface to be uneven) others don't, since the rotor itself hasn't actually warped. In any case, I think the majority opinion of the experts is that the problem with stock 3rd Gen brakes is due to uneven deposits, not the actual rotor warping.

There are also some that claim that you can get rid of the "warping" shudder by aggressively rebedding the pads. I'm in the city and I haven't had a chance to test this out, but I'm going to give it a shot when I'm out in the boonies in a few weeks.
 
I've been reading a lot about this with the same upgrade in mind. There's a lot of disagreement about what "warp" actually means - some people seem to think uneven pad deposits = warping (since it causes the braking surface to be uneven) others don't, since the rotor itself hasn't actually warped. In any case, I think the majority opinion of the experts is that the problem with stock 3rd Gen brakes is due to uneven deposits, not the actual rotor warping.

There are also some that claim that you can get rid of the "warping" shudder by aggressively rebedding the pads. I'm in the city and I haven't had a chance to test this out, but I'm going to give it a shot when I'm out in the boonies in a few weeks.



My brother rebedded his pads on his 2015 Cummins. But for him it wasn’t pulsing, it was poor brake performance.


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Planning my future Tundra upgrade and looking at parts/kits

Been following this thread and obviously have BFAD's thread bookmarked

I would prefer NOT to have DS rotors, drilled or slotted maybe, but not both; interesting to read about warping tundra rotors, in general. My question about that is, do the rotors really warp or do the pad imprint upon them unevenly (bed-in issue)

Drilled is really not necessary. I tried rebedding. Did nothing. They are warped AF. You can warp any brake setup. Actually, I've warped two Tundra setups. Meanwhile I have a 4Runner with the smallest brake caliper option that I haven't warped. I think better quality pads and rotors matter the most on a vehicle of this weight.
 
I bought a Callahan kit as well, here is a video review of the kit i got. There are links in the video. Great price and has been solid. Way better that the crap I had on before

YouTube


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Is it possible to re-bed brakes?

I have read a bunch about bedding, both single and dual stage (re-bedding after brakes cool down) but is it possible to bed them on an ongoing basis?

It stands to reason, that if you can "warp" a rotor by depositing unevenly across the surface is it possible to proactively bed them on a routine basis, like once a month, before they get so bad as to pulse or shudder?

Why are some brakes "set it and forget it" and others turn to crap in 6 months?

Inferior materials make sense, and a complete kit for $200-300 doesn't scream quality over price. I'm starting to think kits are not the way to go. Properly functioning calipers are a must, especially when there's more than one piston, but everything else boils down to pads and rotors.

I think BFAD's approach, sourcing components individually, is the way to go, and it appears Toyota pads and rotors have come down in price a smidge since his post.

Amazon
04465-AZ001-TM Pads - EDIT - these were replaced by Toyota, new PN pending, shims are sold separately (if needed)

43512-0C011 Rotors ($76.50 free shipping each from Conicelli Toyota of Springfield, lower on page)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KTIFD5U/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_Zhs8Cb7J3R6R9

Rebuilt calipers, as long as they work, should be fine. 13WL casting for hard line (like stock 4runner) or 13WG for flex line (upgrade to SS hose).
 
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I bought a Callahan kit as well,

Drilled and Slotted? how many miles?
Curious if hair line cracks at edge of holes have developed using on 4Runner.
This is a known problem with cross drilled rotors in lower price range under certain conditions/usage. Not a apples to apples comparison really, had them on a Miata that I autocrossed occasionally cracks developed quick. Comparing weight stop n go traffic use panic braking somewhat of comparison.
 
Meanwhile I have a 4Runner with the smallest brake caliper option that I haven't warped.
This is my experience. Actually, I had some pretty bad brake pulsing when I got the 4Runner from my sister. Without doing anything but adjusting the rear brakes and 'correct' driving style, the pulsing went away and hasn't come back in years. This is with the 'small' brakes and 32" tires.

I'm in the "brakes don't warp, pad material gets deposited" camp. I don't know if the actual mechanism is brake material being deposited, or some sort of uneven heat treatment that happens at the surface or something like that.

What I can tell you is this: after a hard braking event (exiting the freeway, etc.), avoid just come to a stop. For the last ~10 feet or so, mostly release the brakes and slowly come to a stop at the end and spread the heat or pad material or whatever on the brake surface.

When doing track days/racing, you are not even supposed to apply the parking brake in the pits (use wheel chocks) to avoid leaving pad material on the braking surface - a similar effect could happen on the street with marginal braking systems like the 4Runner has.

-Charlie
 
Drilled and Slotted? how many miles?

Curious if hair line cracks at edge of holes have developed using on 4Runner.

This is a known problem with cross drilled rotors in lower price range under certain conditions/usage. Not a apples to apples comparison really, had them on a Miata that I autocrossed occasionally cracks developed quick. Comparing weight stop n go traffic use panic braking somewhat of comparison.



Haven’t been on long enough for me to tell, I am watching them as part of a long term review process. Yeah, brakes under racing conditions are a totally different monster. The closest to that i’ll see is the stupid mountain grades going up north here in AZ.

In all honesty the price for the Callahan kit is worth it just for the calipers.


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New Callahan Calipers & Slotted/Drilled Rotors

Even for $122 a caliper?



I paid about $110 a caliper if you break it down that way. Vatozone was more for their 13WL. NAPA was even higher.




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Has anybody had any issues sending back their original calipers to get the core refund back? I ask because you are buying Toyota Tundra calipers but sending back smaller 4runner calipers. Would the seller refuse to credit you back because they are not identical calipers being sent back? Has anybody got their core refund back this way?
 

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