New Control Arms?

[SnowLizard]

had an inspection at dealer ship... with oil change... they said I need control arms cause the bushings are separating?????

Lower Control arms... bushing separated.
Upper control arms... recommended replacement at same time...


Lower options...
$100 bushings + $300 shop press fees... using old arms...
or
$400 new OEM lower control arms... with bushings (camelback toyota)

Upper control arm options...
SPC light racing... 450... has ball joint... proven on this forum and generation.
Ebay??? .... unknown brand... LINK

Ebay they sold 34 of them... LINK to local thread, good review.

not sure what's the consensus on here? what's the best route?

this is $700-$800 in parts... important parts... so I want to do this right, but 'smart' too... the EBAY arms look like they have held up... even with added All-Pro hardware as an upgrade.

 

[Nate_GB]

Not understanding how the cost of the lower control arm bushings is only $100 in the first option, unless it's only one control arm that needs the bushings replaced. Those lower arm bushings are around $50 each if I remember right.

From my experience the lower control arm bushings are a pain in the ass and it was more effective for me to just replace the whole arm.

I doubt the upper control arm bushings need replacing. They don't see the same loads as the lower control arms so they shouldn't experience very much wear. So unless the rubber in the upper control arm bushings has just deteriorated from age or you need to replace the ball joint anyway, I wouldn't worry about those.

I wasn't clear from your post if you'll be doing the work yourself or not.

My opinion in a nutshell. If you have more money than time, replace the whole lower control arm. If you have more time than money, replace only the bushings.

Also, you will need an alignment afterwards so factor that in.

 

[Sup41]

had an inspection at dealer ship... with oil change... they said I need control arms cause the bushings are separating?????

Lower Control arms... bushing separated.
Upper control arms... recommended replacement at same time...


Lower options...
$100 bushings + $300 shop press fees... using old arms...
or
$400 new OEM lower control arms... with bushings (camelback toyota)

Upper control arm options...
SPC light racing... 450... has ball joint... proven on this forum and generation.
Ebay??? .... unknown brand... LINK

Ebay they sold 34 of them... LINK to local thread, good review.

not sure what's the consensus on here? what's the best route?

this is $700-$800 in parts... important parts... so I want to do this right, but 'smart' too... the EBAY arms look like they have held up... even with added All-Pro hardware as an upgrade.

Can't speak to the lower control arms but I did just replace my old UCA's with the SPC arms. If you read enough on here reviews are mixed. Although 100% of the negative reviews appear to be pre 2014(ish) before they upgraded the balljoints.

It's only been 500 miles but I like them a lot. My truck is finally back in alignment. Only downside I see is you need to grease em every oil change to prevent premature failure. Super easy to do but some might find annoying

 

[Rock_Rat]

Lower options...
$100 bushings + $300 shop press fees... using old arms...
or
$400 new OEM lower control arms... with bushings (camelback toyota)

Upper control arm options...
SPC light racing... 450... has ball joint... proven on this forum and generation.
Bay??? .... unknown brand... so I want to do this right, but 'smart' too... the

For your Lower Control Arms get a set of Whiteline bushings and Super Lube. Find a friend with a press. For $300 you could buy your own press at Harbor Freight.

I wouldn't buy new ones only because the LCA's don't go bad, just the bushings.

You've got a nice build with Nitto's on there and looking at a tapered lift option. I would 100% go with the SPC uppers. Never worry again. They have a group buy going on now.

Time, tools, and money is your deciding factor...

 

[Scramble]

had an inspection at dealer ship... with oil change... they said I need control arms cause the bushings are separating?????

Lower Control arms... bushing separated.
Upper control arms... recommended replacement at same time...


Lower options...
$100 bushings + $300 shop press fees... using old arms...
or
$400 new OEM lower control arms... with bushings (camelback toyota)

Upper control arm options...
SPC light racing... 450... has ball joint... proven on this forum and generation.
Ebay??? .... unknown brand... LINK

Ebay they sold 34 of them... LINK to local thread, good review.

not sure what's the consensus on here? what's the best route?

this is $700-$800 in parts... important parts... so I want to do this right, but 'smart' too... the EBAY arms look like they have held up... even with added All-Pro hardware as an upgrade.

What did you end up doing?

 

[SnowLizard]

I have done... nothing...

here is what i'm leaning towards... most likely going to happen.

New LCA's from camelback... 400 pair
SPC for top... 450-550 pair i think

I've been waiting for a sale to happen... in the mean time, I've been driving my wifes 97.


Nate_GB questioned bushing prices... $50 each x4 = $200 + $300 shop fee = $500... so it's cheaper to get new LCA's... great call.

SPC Arms, cause any 'uni-ball' will squeak... over time it will make nosie.. and the ball joint in the SPC won't. granted it's a little extra work to grease but at least it will go away for a while. and for what I do, I won't run the uni-ball it's full range of motion, so not loosing anything.

:ybrick: I can't believe i didn't see the GB on the SPC!!

 

[01thunder]

with the exception of alignments and mounting/balancing tires, i've done everything to my truck. i just installed a trans in it almost a month ago and dropped the tank to replace some things. front bushings are not hard to replace but do take a little time to do. i replaced the rears as well without special presses and such.
i've been wrenching 30+ years so it's not that hard for me nor i'm not giving a shop anymore money than what they are already stealing from everyone else. you learn stuff as you go. of course, it you don't have time nor care to learn, pay someone else to do it.

 

[MStudt]

I have done... nothing...

here is what i'm leaning towards... most likely going to happen.

New LCA's from camelback... 400 pair
SPC for top... 450-550 pair i think

I've been waiting for a sale to happen... in the mean time, I've been driving my wifes 97.


Nate_GB questioned bushing prices... $50 each x4 = $200 + $300 shop fee = $500... so it's cheaper to get new LCA's... great call.

SPC Arms, cause any 'uni-ball' will squeak... over time it will make nosie.. and the ball joint in the SPC won't. granted it's a little extra work to grease but at least it will go away for a while. and for what I do, I won't run the uni-ball it's full range of motion, so not loosing anything.

:ybrick: I can't believe i didn't see the GB on the SPC!!

So the install of the bushings is NOT a bad considering the work. That price is most likely including removal of the LCA's, removal of the bushings, install of new bushings, and install of the LCA's. Not to mention separating the lower ball joints. I'm also not a fan of breaking those loose, and then installing them again.

Given your location you most likely won't have to deal with rusted cam bolts, and that could eat up hours of labor. They're charging you for 3 hours of work, and it took me about 6 hours to do mine. Plus, I couldn't drive it after the new LCA's were installed since the alignment was beyond jacked up. It had to be towed to shop for an alignment, and that took all day.

 

[mtbtim]

So are your UCA bushings really bad or did the shop just say it would be smart to replace those bushings at the same time you replace the LCA bushings?

You can save a boat load of money choosing aftermarket poly LCA bushings from Whiteline and doing the work yourself. The Whiteline bushings are $63 for the whole set of 4. Front Control Arm Bushings - Toyota 4Runner - W53377A

Why upgrade the UCAs? Keep the OEM ones and save money.
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have a video for the LCA bushings but not one for the UCAs. Maybe start with the LCA bushings and see how it handles. I have figured out a technique to replace the UCA bushings but it requires a press and bearing splitter. We'll have a video for it at some point.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kmaZNBp1gZM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[octanejunkie]

While you are at it (replacing the LCA bushings) get the rack and pinion poly bushing kit from Energy Suspension unless you're a hard core wheeler, then go OEM, and get the poly sway bar bushing kit while you're at it.

You have to unbolt the rack and move it to do the LCA bushings so might as well freshen up the bushings there too. The good news is you can "rent" a hand press from autozone or similar for the job, so your net cost is really just parts, silicone grease and time.

 

[SnowLizard]

oh I'd be doing the work... I've restored a 65 mustang, and that was 'simple' in my terms... this t4r is way more 'modern' but still just as simple. the shop fee was for them to press the bushings... i know i could buy a press... but I have no place for it (1 car garage shorter than my 99!)

the lower bushings are separated... two shops confirmed
the upper is 'recommended' to replace at same time (age wise) both shops said the same...
1st shop was the toyota dealership... oil change and i got a free inspection,
2nd shop was Desert Toy Shop (DTS), they specialize in Toyota all years... they know/see it all. i did not tell the 2nd shop what the 1st shop said, I just said I wanna know if there are any issues in my suspension i should worry about. DTS did say my rear control arm bushings had dry cracks, but they weren't as bad as my wasted front LCA's and they wanted to see me replace the upper bushings too due to the fact of the lowers.

I figure, I swap them both, then don't look at it for a years to come... AND the upper ball joint will be that much easier to replace later.

price wise, new LCA's are cheaper than swapping the bushings without a press... if I had access to a press... well duh. but I don't.


already replace the steering rack bushings oh and the whole steering rack

thanks for all the comments

 

[theesotericone]

[MENTION=126065]SnowLizard[/MENTION]

I have SPC uppers with just under 10,000 miles on them. I have wheeled my rig way harder then I should and those control arms are still in perfect shape. No play in the ball joint and no shifting of the lock plate. Make sure you torque that top BJ nut to there spec, 150ft/lbs.

The "if you wheel hard" line from [MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION] above is because I split an Energy Suspension steering rack bushing like a melon a few months ago. I have since replaced it with AC Delco which is rubber not poly. Time will tell how that holds up but it's been abused pretty good so far and looks fine.

 

[SnowLizard]

dang... i'm sure i used the energy suspension poly on my r&p

I don't wheel 'hard' I just like the dirt roads really, I'm positive a 2wd can go 90% of where i go, the 10% is just too steep... my elocker is 'overkill'!

 

[HiluxSurf SSR-G]

I think there is no complete OEM replacement bushing kit for the steering rack. You can buy the big bushing, but not the others.

While you are at it (replacing the LCA bushings) get the rack and pinion poly bushing kit from Energy Suspension unless you're a hard core wheeler, then go OEM, and get the poly sway bar bushing kit while you're at it.

You have to unbolt the rack and move it to do the LCA bushings so might as well freshen up the bushings there too. The good news is you can "rent" a hand press from autozone or similar for the job, so your net cost is really just parts, silicone grease and time.

 

[octanejunkie]

Dude, if you restored a mustang, and had to deal with those primitive A arms and typical cracked shock towers, you can do this.

Watch the video [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] and [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] made on LCA bushings, they used a bottle jack, no press work required. Or you could pull the arms yourself and take them to a job shop and have the the bushings pressed out and in. There are shops near me that do that for $10 a bushing. Then just go home, reinstall them and go get an alignment - the LCAs themselves don't need to be replaced unless damaged, unlike many folks opt to do with UCAs.

BTW, LMK if you want to buy a Granada spindle disc kit for that mustang *wink*

 

[octanejunkie]

I think there is no complete OEM replacement bushing kit for the steering rack. You can buy the big bushing, but not the others.

By OEM, I meant rubber, and not poly; and you are probably right as the stealership sells a complete rack when you order just bushings LMAO

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