Suspension help

[dubate]

So I've got a little project ahead of me and for anyone who has done this before I'd appreciate the input. I've got Timmy's videos guiding me but as his is a one job per video place I need advice.

I am replacing my OEM upper control arms with Icon UCAs, replacing lower control arms with OEM LCAs, replacing the shocks and struts with Bilstein 5100s, and replacing the CV axles. What is the best/smartest order of operations for removing and replacing the parts?

Thanks

 

[LT_T4R]

So I've got a little project ahead of me and for anyone who has done this before I'd appreciate the input. I've got Timmy's videos guiding me but as his is a one job per video place I need advice.

I am replacing my OEM upper control arms with Icon UCAs, replacing lower control arms with OEM LCAs, replacing the shocks and struts with Bilstein 5100s, and replacing the CV axles. What is the best/smartest order of operations for removing and replacing the parts?

Thanks

A lot of these steps are interchangeable, but you get the idea

Remove Order:
1. Dust Cap on hub, Cotter pin, axle nut
2. 4 LBJ Bolts connecting to spindle (Keep one in there until top of spindle is removed.
3. Remove ball joint on spindle from UCA.
4. Disconnect Brake lines on spindle/caliper, take out that one last LBJ bolt, and spindle will come out. Depending on how old your cv axle is, you might have to tap it out of the spindle to get the spindle off.
5. Use a pry bar and get cv out.
6. Take cotter pin and nut off of outer tie rod. Use ball joint tool to remove.
7. Remove bottom shock bolt, then top 3 bolts.
8. Removing the UCA is a pain on the drivers side since you have to take the battery out, then its just a long bolt that slides out. There are also some cables in the way you might have to move around a little.
9. For LCA's, you will have to loosen the steering rack mounts. I believe its 3 big bolts and then you can work the steering rack around and slide the LCA bolts out.
10. Transfer ball joint to new LCA
That's it for removal.

Install is just the reverse order.

Some tips:
To remove LCA bolts, slide bolt out of the sleeve first
Take pics of your LCA alignment tabs. Trying to re-align them the same as they were will help you make it to the alignment shop.
Since you are already taking the spindle out, I would recommend welding in a spindle gusset, and might as well upgrade to tundra brakes too.
Inspect inner and outer tie-rods.
The harbor freight ball joint puller set is a life saver.
Replacing your LBJ is not a bad idea.
GET NEW LBJ BOLTS. There is a article online that shows the importance of this. I recommend ARP.

 

[phattyduck]

Once the brakes and wiring (abs) are out of the way, do them in whatever order you want. Take everything from one side off, put it all back, then do the other side, that way you have a reference. I recently did all that, minus the axles...

Make sure you use the correct torque value for the lower ball joint bolts you use.

-Charlie

 

[3bears]

it is no totally unusal to have to cut the lower control arms out as the cams can get frozen in the bushings. I have had one in the past.

 

[phattyduck]

it is no totally unusal to have to cut the lower control arms out as the cams can get frozen in the bushings. I have had one in the past.

Good point. Make sure you have the tools to deal with this issue or verify that the lower control arm bolts, nuts and cams all spin freely before starting the rest of the job. I have a California 4Runner with non-seized cams, so I totally forgot about this (I lubed up the sleeve bit to make sure it doesn't happen in the future too - make sure the clamping areas stay dry though... avoid slipping alignment).

-Charlie