New eccentric adjusters: Antiseize?

Truck is 2000 Ltd 4WD with V6 in decent shape at 220,000 miles

I started out to replace some old suspension parts and the can-of-worms just kept getting bigger and bigger. LOTS and lots of rusted crap.

As of now, I am replacing

  • Wheel bearings and seals
  • Upper Control Arm bushings
  • Right upper control arm
  • Lower Control Arm bushings
  • Eccentric adjusters
  • Upper ball joints
  • Lower ball joints
  • Tie rod ends
  • Sway bar links
  • Struts
Ready to re-assemble and here is my Question:

Should I put antiseize on the eccentric adjusters? A couple of them were so stuck I had to saw them out.

THX!!!

- k -
 
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Should I put antiseize on the eccentric adjusters? A couple of them were so stuck I had to saw them out.

THX!!!

- k -


Should you? No clue, though I did on my '99 when I was going through it. Put some sort of anti-seize on everything. Probably won't be for my benefit, but someone down the road will thank me.
 
I put some on my 4th gen when I replaced the lower control arms and hardware. It won't really hurt to put something like a very light coat of anti seize or moly sulfide on the surfaces that interact with the bushings and shaft of the bolt and the sleeves. You just want to give it some protection against rusting in the sleeve and bushing, i would be hesitant to put any on the cans themselves though, you don't want to lube it to the point it will slip easily. Just don't get any on the threads as that modifies the torque when you tighten them up.
 
Antisieze all the things. Anti seize the threads too. The next guy will thank you. Its just the smart thing to do.
 
I did all the bushings front and rear.. Yes, anti-seize the bolt rod and threads! If you work on your vehicles, life is so easy with anti-seize!
 
I had to sawzall out the old (original) adjusters on mine. They were JAMMED and I tried for a silly amount of time with leverage, penetrating oils, heat, rattle guns, hammers, nothing made it budge at all. Finally just gave up and sawd on both sides of both bushings and that worked.

I gooped up the new hardware with antiseize.
 
I replaced mine with a greasable design. I did get alignment slip on my last wheeling trip though. Not sure if that’s because they were so well-greased or if it would’ve happened either way. Now I’m leaning towards moving to adjustable UCAs and cam eliminator plates.
 
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I replaced mine with a greasable design. I did get alignment slip on my last wheeling trip though. Not sure if that’s because they were so well-greased or if it would’ve happened either way. Now I’m leaning towards moving to adjustable UCAs and cam eliminator plates.

Did the greaseable design only have one flat on thru bolt (Moog) for cam washers? I got them for grease fitting, the alignment guy fugged them up on first alignment bad design soft steel back to OE adjusters.
Grease will not let adjuster move not being torqued to spec will. Are the tabs on your cam plates bent? One of mine was last time I had it apart hammer and punch fixed it.
 

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