new engine knock after seafoam?

I think problems really only arise when you have a high mileage vehicle that you suddenly load with seafoam. I bet if you added it gingerly just before oil changes for a while, giving it time to work slowly and wash everything into the filter, then you'd be fine. Kind of the same principle behind not switching a high mileage engine over from conventional to synthetic oil, it may clean out the engine and uncover leaks that were clogged by sludge.

This is exactly right. Said it much better than I did.
 
My first inclination was to not post another comment on this thread because I don’t want to get into an endless debate on Seafoam. But after a period of long thought, I realized these threads live long after many of us are gone and future Toyota 4Runner (car) owners need a well-rounded view of the use of the product and that involves hearing both sides of the debate. Their car engines depends on it. When I used it on my ill-fated adventure, I had read many, many threads from other websites.

In response to Nelsonmd’s comment regarding a high mileage vehicle that “….you suddenly load with seafoam. I bet if you added it gingerly just before oil changes for a while, giving it time to work slowly and wash everything into the filter, they you’d be fine.” I did add it gingerly, per Seafoam’s directions, and I had problems.

I have attached a flyer I obtained from the Seafoam website just prior to my use of it in my 4Runner. Please note I was correct in my previous (long winded) post when it directs to use 1 ½ oz. per quart of oil.

And nowhere did I see a limit on the flyer on how long it should stay in your oil. But it does recommend the product be used every 2,000 to 5,000 miles. I apologize that the flyer is hard to read but that is exactly how I downloaded it from their website in the fall of 2008.

Here is another website which also lists the directions for Seafoam’s use.

The Truth About Seafoam - Car Forums and Automotive Chat

My recommendation is if you want to try something that will help your vehicle run better, don’t ingest Seafoam through a vacuum hose but rather disassembly and clean your Throttle Body (TB) and Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor.

One very good post with excellent directions for this cleaning procedure is here:

Toyota 4Runner Highlander Throttle Body cleaning and O Gasket Mod

Another good post from this website with the cleaning and O-gasket change is here:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/47063-trd-throttle-body-o-gasket.html

In case either of the two above websites disappear sometime in the future or the links fail to work, Google “Throttle Body Cleaning and 'O' Gasket Mod” or “Modification” and they, or similar links, should come up.

I also recommend disassembling your Idle Air Control (IAC) valve from the TB and cleaning that too. After following the above procedure, cleaning and reassembling those three things (TB, MAF, and IAC) did more good for my 4Runner than any can of Seafoam ever did. Period. It starts better, idles better (lower RPM and smoother), and responds much quicker.

And I agree with many others—including my trusted mechanic—who recommend using a good quality oil and oil filter and changing them frequently to avoid any serious engine problems. As I said in my previous post on this thread, I followed this advice and my 4Runner’s original engine ran for 5,000 miles after I purchased it. I used Seafoam in the oil once and it didn’t last 63 miles.

In my humbler opinion it’s not a coincidence my engine failed after I used Seafoam. It’s a fact. And yes, I think the product caused the failure.

But I also agree with: to each his own regarding products and which to use and not use. But I also felt a sense of responsibility to all the future Toyota owners who will read this thread and need to hear another story about its use.

Placing Seafoam in an engine’s oil is playing Russian roulette in my opinion. Sometimes the hammer falls on an empty cylinder and sometimes it doesn’t. In my case the hammer fell on a loaded cylinder on the very first time and my engine (and wallet) paid the price.

Once was enough for me. Never again.
 

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My first inclination was to not post another comment on this thread because I don’t want to get into an endless debate on Seafoam. But after a period of long thought, I realized these threads live long after many of us are gone and future Toyota 4Runner (car) owners need a well-rounded view of the use of the product and that involves hearing both sides of the debate. Their car engines depends on it. When I used it on my ill-fated adventure, I had read many, many threads from other websites.

In response to Nelsonmd’s comment regarding a high mileage vehicle that “….you suddenly load with seafoam. I bet if you added it gingerly just before oil changes for a while, giving it time to work slowly and wash everything into the filter, they you’d be fine.” I did add it gingerly, per Seafoam’s directions, and I had problems.

I have attached a flyer I obtained from the Seafoam website just prior to my use of it in my 4Runner. Please note I was correct in my previous (long winded) post when it directs to use 1 ½ oz. per quart of oil.

And nowhere did I see a limit on the flyer on how long it should stay in your oil. But it does recommend the product be used every 2,000 to 5,000 miles. I apologize that the flyer is hard to read but that is exactly how I downloaded it from their website in the fall of 2008.

Here is another website which also lists the directions for Seafoam’s use.

The Truth About Seafoam - Car Forums and Automotive Chat

My recommendation is if you want to try something that will help your vehicle run better, don’t ingest Seafoam through a vacuum hose but rather disassembly and clean your Throttle Body (TB) and Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor.

One very good post with excellent directions for this cleaning procedure is here:

Toyota 4Runner Highlander Throttle Body cleaning and O Gasket Mod

Another good post from this website with the cleaning and O-gasket change is here:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/47063-trd-throttle-body-o-gasket.html

In case either of the two above websites disappear sometime in the future or the links fail to work, Google “Throttle Body Cleaning and 'O' Gasket Mod” or “Modification” and they, or similar links, should come up.

I also recommend disassembling your Idle Air Control (IAC) valve from the TB and cleaning that too. After following the above procedure, cleaning and reassembling those three things (TB, MAF, and IAC) did more good for my 4Runner than any can of Seafoam ever did. Period. It starts better, idles better (lower RPM and smoother), and responds much quicker.

And I agree with many others—including my trusted mechanic—who recommend using a good quality oil and oil filter and changing them frequently to avoid any serious engine problems. As I said in my previous post on this thread, I followed this advice and my 4Runner’s original engine ran for 5,000 miles after I purchased it. I used Seafoam in the oil once and it didn’t last 63 miles.

In my humbler opinion it’s not a coincidence my engine failed after I used Seafoam. It’s a fact. And yes, I think the product caused the failure.

But I also agree with: to each his own regarding products and which to use and not use. But I also felt a sense of responsibility to all the future Toyota owners who will read this thread and need to hear another story about its use.

Placing Seafoam in an engine’s oil is playing Russian roulette in my opinion. Sometimes the hammer falls on an empty cylinder and sometimes it doesn’t. In my case the hammer fell on a loaded cylinder on the very first time and my engine (and wallet) paid the price.

Once was enough for me. Never again.

Do you think this is something that could be further prevented by using maybe half the recommended amount, running for 30ish minutes and then pulling the bottom of your crank case off and cleaning it out well? Getting any solids out that have broken off or built up?
 
No one asked me and I know that this is pretty much a necro-thread, but as mentioned earlier, this advice is still applicable.

My own experience with Seafoam has been just fine. I had read a lot about it and all the horror stories, etc., so I actually went less than what was recommended on the bottle. It's recommended to go 1/3-vacuum, 1/3-oil, 1/3-gas, or even as the flyer above says 1/2pint (8oz or half bottle) for each.

I did this at 135k and to my knowledge it had never been done before.

I pretty much only used half the bottle at first. I emptied it into a (completely dry and clean) 16 oz water bottle so I could mark on the sides. I sucked a 6th into vacuum (and DID NOT stall out the engine; just sucked it slowly. Ha), poured a 6th into the gas, and dumped a 6th into the oil on my return trip home from work (32 miles). Did an oil and filter change the next morning. Oil was black as tar.
I did the exact same thing 3000 miles later at my next oil change.
(I ended up opening the valve covers later because I dropped a broken injector head into them :toilet:and the valves were clean enough to eat off of, although this may not necessarily be because of the Seafoam).
Since then, almost 20k later, I've gone through several bottles of Seafoam. I've not put any more in the oil, but I do the vacuum line and gas all the time. Honestly maybe every other month. Again, I do NOT stall out the engine. I use my allotted amount, then shut it down for 15+ minutes, then start it back up and rev it a bit till the white clouds go away.

As NelsonMD necro-said, I think it has to do with doing a bunch on an old vehicle. Maybe not necessarily 'revealing' leaks, but breaking off huge chunks of grime and sludge that then clog your engine. If you SeaFoam a brand new engine from day one, then the factory recommended amounts are probably just fine. With a higher mileage vehicle, use smaller amounts over several weeks/ months. It will break down slower and be less likely to clog anything. After several small amount applications spread over a few months, it's probably safe to do the full amount.
As the OP said, he put most of the bottle in at one time on a 300k engine. This is very likely what killed it.
 
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Coincidence

I've used both seafoam (6oz) in motor oil during last 300 miles before oil changes about a dozen times on my 273k motor. I've alternated with the old school Gunk (full 32oz run for 5 mins before oil change).

Engine still runs great, no knocks, so i think its just a coincidence a rod or other bearing went out after.

On the other hand for those in doubt, save your money for more frequent & better quality (full synth) oil if concerned about adding carbon cleaners to your motor oil. Luck and enjoy! :cowboy:
 
aren't those ''low oil level'' lights activated by pressure switches most of the time?

That could mean that your oil pressure is low, for wathever reason.
 
Don't EVER touch sludge or using these quick acting cleaners. Seafoam is a great intake cleaner, but I'll NEVER put it in the oil system. Sludge needs to be cleaned slowly. I never understood what the rush is with people having to use chemicals to de-sludge their engines. Changing the oil frequently is just as effective and safer.

For anyone reading, I don't recommend putting Seafoam in oil. If your engine has sludge, then you are just asking to blow it up by using it.

Seafoam in the intake and gas - great stuff. Just don't hydrolock your engine putting it through the intake.
 
No snake oil products in my truck ever. Just use a good oil & filter & change them every 3000 miles. (or longer if you're using synth)
 
Marvel is no better or worse. Putting these fast acting cleaners in your oil is just a recipe for a disaster. Again, why the rush to clean the sludge?
 
Its not really much of a "rush". I say this because mine dumped out brown muddy looking oil at 5k oci about 6-7 times (over 35k miles) before it finally would look more like normal translucent oil coming out. I'm not saying everyone should do it, just there is no "overnight" cleaning going on, it takes time. She's purring right now.....
 
The magic words are "frequent" and "good" oil changes. When I was in my very early 20's I thought I knew it all and sea foamed a Chevy 350 engine in a '72 nova because I thought it was a good idea to clean up the engine and get better performance.....after that it No Va'ed. Expensive Lesson learned.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
In the high performance Mitsubishi world we would burn seafoam through intake to clean carbon on pistons. Never put it in had or oil. Putting in oil sounds disastrous. That being said it was used on many vehicles hundreds of times and never heard of a failure
 

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