New front diff = not disengaging 4wd

[vthokie]

Hey guys I need a little advice.

Background:
About a month ago I went wheeling and broke something in my front differential. Today when I was swapping in a used one we found out that I actually broke one of the intermediate shafts of the differential, and not the spider gears. Overall the swap went pretty well, it just took some time.

Problem:
I took it for a test drive and put it in 4wd. It engaged, but the indicator lights on the dash are only blinking. When i make a really tight turn it seems like something is binding. It isn't just because I am in 4wd, it sounds like something else, and it looks like the transfercase is maybe the problem...

How can I get this to disengage, so that it is driveable? I have hit the solenoid with a hammer, Drove around in drive and reverse, and even Unplugged the connectors on the transfercase (read that it might work).

What could have gone wrong? It has never had trouble shifting in and out of 4wd. If the new/used front differential has never really been used in 4wd could that affect it? the actuator in the front is the same one I had originally, so it should be fine.

I'll take any help/advice that i can get right now...

 

[Singtoe]

Did you install the shift fork form the solenoid back in the right spot. It is possible the fork is just to the side cog causing it to be permanently in lock position.

Simple test.

Put into 2wd. Crawl und truck and turn the front drive shaft by hand. If it doesn't turn, then the front dif is locked or the tranfer case is locked.

Jack one front wheel up, turn the fron drive shaft, If the the wheel turns, the the acuator is messed up (wrong install or what not) if it still doesn't turn, then it is the Transfer case.

 

[vthokie]

I can't get it to actually get out of 4wd. When I accelerate from a dead stop I can also feel something slip/bind which i think is odd. I have tried spinning the front drive shaft and it will not spin because it is locked. I also jacked up the passenger side wheel and it would not spin, which means that it is also locked...
The shift fork was installed so that the fork went right around that ring( I believe that is where it is supposed to go). Initially when it had broken and we had begun working on it to see what was the issue was the transfer case had no problem shifting into and out of 4wd. I'm not sure what could have happened.

Just as a precautionary measure, would it be smart to take out the front driveshaft? would that prevent any damage I may cause by driving it around?

Did you install the shift fork form the solenoid back in the right spot. It is possible the fork is just to the side cog causing it to be permanently in lock position.

Simple test.

Put into 2wd. Crawl und truck and turn the front drive shaft by hand. If it doesn't turn, then the front dif is locked or the tranfer case is locked.

Jack one front wheel up, turn the fron drive shaft, If the the wheel turns, the the acuator is messed up (wrong install or what not) if it still doesn't turn, then it is the Transfer case.

 

[Singtoe]

Try this test. Jack the front end up so that both wheels are off the ground and try spinning the drive shaft. If it spins the wheels then your tranfer case is ok. If you can't spin it then the transfer case is malfunctioning. Make sure your shift lever is in 2wd.

 

[vthokie]

Try this test. Jack the front end up so that both wheels are off the ground and try spinning the drive shaft. If it spins the wheels then your tranfer case is ok. If you can't spin it then the transfer case is malfunctioning. Make sure your shift lever is in 2wd.

Ok, I kind of mis-read your original post because it needs to be in 2wd... I have the push button 4wd , so I cannot force it into 2wd, and for some reason it will not disengage. It must be in a bind for some reason.

But I do understand what you mean as far as testing it. Is there any way to manually switch it out of 4wd?

 

[Singtoe]

I see the dilemma. You front axle could be functioning just fine, it is your 4wd ecu that is messing everything up. (I guess)

Check all your plugs and connections. Are your 4wd indicator lights flashing?

Check the fuses too. Make sure none them were blown by accident.

 

[vthokie]

The lights are flashing and wont switch into 4wd completely (solid lights) or completely disengage (no lights). I will check out the connections and fuses tomorrow. I was also thinking that if I disconnect the front drive shaft, there shouldn't be any stress on the transfer case, so it shouldn't bind and should switch out of 4wd easily right? If I disconnect that and can spin the transfer case output freely then the transfer case should be fine.

I'm not positive but I think I might be able to unbolt the actuator of the diff without dropping it(at least I hope its possible, I need to actually take a close look). Then if I have it out I can try to engage/disengage the 4wd and the actuator should have some sort of movement. Is that correct?

If both the actuator and the transfer case are "free" there shouldn't be an issue with them moving, so if one fails to move then that would be the bad part...

Also, all I have changed was the diff, so maybe something went wrong with that. Since the breaking on the intermediate shaft I haven't actually had 4wd but I have cycled it in and out and everything has moved (at least on the transfer case side for sure. This was done when removing the drive shaft bolts.)

Someone suggested that the gearing on the diffs was not matched. I know you said the diff was a 4.10 and I know mine is a 4.10, but even if this was the case, it still felt like it was binding while driving in grass/dirt. I'm beginning to think that it is more likely an issue with the transfer case, but the only thing different is the front differential, and everything I removed/replaced when changing it out. That is what doesn't make sense to me.


Possibly another issue, or maybe a result of the original issue?
I can feel a slip/jerk when accelerating in drive and reverse, or when turning, but once I have some momentum it doesn't do it anymore, and what ever it is catches. We thought it may have been the drive shaft being loose because it felt like something was loose then it would catch once it began moving, but the shaft is tight.

Another point brought up was that if the transfer case had issues I would be feeling it in the front. Also, if the front diff/actuator had issues, the transfer case would also feel the effects of the binding from the front. So the stress can travel both ways, if that makes any sense and still be felt in the same area... It just makes it more difficult to figure out what is wrong.

I'll start small with the things originally mentioned. My main goal is to get it out of 4wd before Friday because I have to take a trip home for Thanksgiving. Thanks for the help Singtoe!

I see the dilemma. You front axle could be functioning just fine, it is your 4wd ecu that is messing everything up. (I guess)

Check all your plugs and connections. Are your 4wd indicator lights flashing?

Check the fuses too. Make sure none them were blown by accident.

 

[Singtoe]

If it is Binding up, jacking a one wheel off the ground will free ever thing up.
But with an open center diff you should have any issues with binding because it will differentiate the front and the rear. I am positive the diff is is 4.10 as I counted the teeth on the rear diff.

If it was a different ratio, you couldn't drive it with out serve binding.

Check your plugs and fuses. Try to see what is not functioning, the diff actuator or the transfer case.

 

[vthokie]

Alright so I may have found the problem. I removed the front drive shaft. Now when I put it in reverse or drive, it will not move. The transfer case makes a whining/grind sound and i can see the front output spin and the rear tries to spin. It seems like it is not in high or low gear. I tried shifting into neutral then back to high or low, and it will go into position, but it still grinds. So I think the transfer case isn't even engaged at all anymore, or it is partially engaged and it is grinding.

I was driving around just fine a week ago without a front drive shaft, but I was in 2wd ( with no driver cv in, but i have part of an axle in to hold the wheel bearings together.).. Could the initial break in the front diff have messed up something in the transfer case also?

 

[vthokie]

Ok well I talked it over with a friend and this scenario makes a little more sense. First off I though about how a metal on metal grind sounds when driving stick and missing a gear. This is more of an electric motor whurring. Now the 01 has multi-mode 4wd. In this case the lights on the dash are flashing, and i can't tell for sure if the center diff is locked. If it is in AWD mode, wouldn't it send more power to the easiest side to spin which is the front when there is no drive shaft. I think the car is freaking out and just doesn't know what is going on at the moment.
Is there any way to manually override the 4wd to switch it out? Tomorrow I am going to search for fuses and relays that may have been blown (it was dark out when i removed the drive shaft to begin with). I am also going to try to drain the center diff to see if there are metal shavings in it to confirm if it is actually grinding something.

Any other suggestions?

 

[vthokie]

Alright well I'm pretty sure the front diff is just fine. I had the drive shaft out and jacked up one side and could spin the tire which would spin the drive shaft input going to the diff. The transfer case is still locked and now i am working on figuring out what could be wrong with it. I have read about one of the 2 sensors on the t case going bad so I'm working on checking that out now.

 

[vthokie]

I attempted to drive it home today and it decided not to move at all... It just whines really bad. I'm pretty sure the transfer case/transfer case motor might be bad, or just in a bind. The front drive shaft was the only one spinning. Yesterday I drove it around in 4x4 and it was just fine, but today it decided not to work at all...wth?

Is it easy to remove the actuator from the t case? how should I go about removing it. I unbolted it, but couldn't get it to come out. I think it should probably be in neutral, but didn't make that connection at the time.

 

[joshuawhite1992]

I’m having a similar issue to yours. I have removed my front drive shaft with no I’ll effects so far. It simply operates as a 2wd for now. Did u ever get the actuator off?

 

[Malcolm99]

Its a pretty old post, are you removing the tcase actuator or the front diff actuator. You can remove the tcase actuator by opening the 3 bolt flat access plate on the top and remove the small gear, it looks the same as the 3/4"OD RRDIFF LOCK gear, might be wise to mark and it in relationship with the shift shaft, but I think it will only go back on 1 way, ( i think both styles of tcase actuators can be removed like this) then unbolt the three bolts holding the actuator to the case and it should now slip off. Do not hammer on the round cap on the top or you will dislodge the magnets that turn the armature, they can be glued back on though, and if you pull the armature you will have to reinstall the brushes and springs in the holder, I wouldn't change any of the positions on the case or actuator until reinstalled, or mark everything very carefully.