Hey, I'm new to the forum and new to 4runners but used to own a 92 pickup 4wd. I now have a 98 V6 4wd SR5 that has what I hope is a minor electrical problem. I drained my battery the other night, long story, and my buddy swung by to give me a jump. When he did he accidentally reversed his poles and my horn went crazy. We disconnected and discovered the problem. However, now my 4Runner won't jump. I see power in my headlights but that's it. Nothing when I turn the key. My voltmeter is reading power on the battery... now I'm nervous. My next step is a new battery. Any suggestions? Appreciate the help.
New guy with Elec prob
- Thread starter 4mose
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Kmvreter
New member
I doubt you fried anything because you say you disconnected, hopefully right away.
1. You drained the battery.
2. Then you tried to jump it.
3. You don't say if you actually tried jumping it with the correct polarity, after the first wrong attempt.
3a. If you didn't, then you won't be able to crank because you are still at step 1, a drained battery.
3b. If you did try again, and it didn't crank, did you have a good jump connection?
4. How old is the battery? Is the starter solenoid clicking? Try jump starting again. You may have drained the old battery beyond being able to recharge it or have damaged it during the failed attempt (I doubt it though because you say you have lights) but you should still be to jump start it.
1. You drained the battery.
2. Then you tried to jump it.
3. You don't say if you actually tried jumping it with the correct polarity, after the first wrong attempt.
3a. If you didn't, then you won't be able to crank because you are still at step 1, a drained battery.
3b. If you did try again, and it didn't crank, did you have a good jump connection?
4. How old is the battery? Is the starter solenoid clicking? Try jump starting again. You may have drained the old battery beyond being able to recharge it or have damaged it during the failed attempt (I doubt it though because you say you have lights) but you should still be to jump start it.
T4RBoarder
New member
pretty much same thing happened to me, turned out the be a main fuse under the hood that blew when the cables were reversed.
Thanks for the help. I tried to jump with correct polarity. No response from my 4Runner. There is a good connection verified by voltmeter. I checked the under the hood fuse box and didn't see anything blown. I puled the Head "fuse" but don't know how to tell if is actually blown. I also ran a jump charge to it for a while yesterday and the battery is showing 12 volts. Is there some kind of Toyota security kill that I am not aware of? Am I looking in the right place for the main fuse, and how do I tell if it is blown? Thanks.
Kmvreter
New member
4mose said:
You can check any fuse with the ohm meter. It should show continuity.
Not sure about the 3rd Gen so can't help as to which fuse is a main. Also, are the ignition and ECU fuses OK? Do you have power to other accessories rather than just headlights (radio, dash lights, interior lights, power windows)?
Kmvreter
New member
4mose said:
I would think you should have continuity across all poles on a fuse (maybe others can chime in here.)
Take your meter with you to the parts store (or stealer parts counter) and ask to check the replacement fuse before you buy it. If not, then ask what the return policy is, buy it, check it, use it or return it.
Eureka,
The the 100 amp ALT fusable link was blown along with the 15 amp EFI fuse and 15 amp dome light fuse. It took some very close inspection to see where the fusable link was actually separated. I hate to think what damage would have been done had that not blown. I had to all but remove the entire fuse box from under the hood to pull the old one. Thanks for all your help in tracking this down.
The the 100 amp ALT fusable link was blown along with the 15 amp EFI fuse and 15 amp dome light fuse. It took some very close inspection to see where the fusable link was actually separated. I hate to think what damage would have been done had that not blown. I had to all but remove the entire fuse box from under the hood to pull the old one. Thanks for all your help in tracking this down.
Kmvreter
New member
Didn't know 3rd Gens have an ALT fusible link. I think 4th Gens just have a 140A ALT fuse (never seen a reference to a fusible link.) That's exactly why it's there though, to save your bacon on a major fry of the electronics.
Did you happen to get any pics of the replacement process or can you shot a pic now of where it is located to benefit others?
Did you happen to get any pics of the replacement process or can you shot a pic now of where it is located to benefit others?
Sorry, Didn't think to take pictures, maybe next issue but here is a quick step by step.
DISCONNECT the BATTERY!!
1) The ALT 100 amp fusable link is bolted underneath the fuse box. There is a bolt on both the left and right side. (if you were looking from at it from the drivers fender)
2) The power outlet relay is just to the right and must be removed. A small screwdriver to the tab , in the center, and press the assembly downward.
3) Cut the ziptie holding the bundled wires from the fender
4) A 10mm socket will remove the three bolts anchoring the fuse box
5) There are 2 tabs on each side of the box that must be released with a small flat screwdriver. Once done the top half of the box will lift away. (limited by the wires of course). It gives you enough room to work with a small ratchet.
6) You should see a small window on the left and right side of the box open up. It will expose the bolts for the ALT fusable link and the fusuable line adjacent to it.
7) The bolt on the right was 10mm and the left is 8mm.
8) The right bolt also has a cable held tight by it. (I almost forgot to reconnect)
9) Reverse process to reconnect.
NOTE: I used a telescoping magnet to help catch and place the bolts for the fuse. I would have surely lost them to the caverns of the engine compartment otherwise.
After I put all the fuses back and reconnected the ground to the battery everything worked well.
Thanks for the advice and help. Now if I can figure out the CEL I'll be great.
DISCONNECT the BATTERY!!
1) The ALT 100 amp fusable link is bolted underneath the fuse box. There is a bolt on both the left and right side. (if you were looking from at it from the drivers fender)
2) The power outlet relay is just to the right and must be removed. A small screwdriver to the tab , in the center, and press the assembly downward.
3) Cut the ziptie holding the bundled wires from the fender
4) A 10mm socket will remove the three bolts anchoring the fuse box
5) There are 2 tabs on each side of the box that must be released with a small flat screwdriver. Once done the top half of the box will lift away. (limited by the wires of course). It gives you enough room to work with a small ratchet.
6) You should see a small window on the left and right side of the box open up. It will expose the bolts for the ALT fusable link and the fusuable line adjacent to it.
7) The bolt on the right was 10mm and the left is 8mm.
8) The right bolt also has a cable held tight by it. (I almost forgot to reconnect)
9) Reverse process to reconnect.
NOTE: I used a telescoping magnet to help catch and place the bolts for the fuse. I would have surely lost them to the caverns of the engine compartment otherwise.
After I put all the fuses back and reconnected the ground to the battery everything worked well.
Thanks for the advice and help. Now if I can figure out the CEL I'll be great.
