New Hubs

89FourRunner

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This is going to sound ignorant but I am really just a bolt-on part, change his own ball joints and alternator sort of guy.

Ive replaced wheen hub assemblies on newer cars and SUVs before. Normally the assembly has the wheel studs on it, and its all one large unit.

When you hubs need replacing on a 1st gen 4unner....does that mean replacing the manual locking hub unit? I don't get it.

Wouldn't the wheel bearing simply be replaced instead? I have auto locking hubs, and they work. So if someone says "you need new hubs I can hear them humming" don't they mean the wheel bearings??
 
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You have manual hubs? The hub locking assembly bolts onto the hub, the hub contains the wheel bearings. I don't know why you'd need to replace the hub locking assembly itself unless it's broken - if there's a humming sound from the front, I think you're right to suspect the wheel bearings.

Get a copy of the FSM, there's a link up in the stickies. Nearly every repair job on the 4runner boils down to bolting on parts - if you can replace an alternator, you can totally do the front wheel bearings.
 
You have manual hubs? The hub locking assembly bolts onto the hub, the hub contains the wheel bearings. I don't know why you'd need to replace the hub locking assembly itself unless it's broken - if there's a humming sound from the front, I think you're right to suspect the wheel bearings.

Yes exactly. I actually have Automatic locking Hubs (89 4Runner). They lock and unlock perfectly, but I think I need wheel bearings, they are noisy and even louder when turning.

I just wanted to make sure I had my shit straight. Thank you.

ALSO - no press is needed for the bearings?
 
Shouldn't need a press. Just a really big socket. Pretty sure '89's are ADD with drive flanges not so much an automatic locking hub like the earlier '86-87's (?) iirc....
 
I've never played with the automatic hubs, but I don't think so. You can seat the seal on the inside bearing with a piece of pipe, or even tapping with a plastic/rubber mallet. The outside seal has a set of spindle nuts that you turn to torque to seat it.

Get a 54mm socket and check the FSM, it's pretty straightforward.
 
Shouldn't need a press. Just a really big socket. Pretty sure '89's are ADD with drive flanges not so much an automatic locking hub like the earlier '86-87's (?) iirc....

No its an automatic locking hub 100%. 89 was one of those years that got them. Pain in the butt too, no in motion 4wheel drive. Have to come to a dead stop lol.
 
No its an automatic locking hub 100%. 89 was one of those years that got them. Pain in the butt too, no in motion 4wheel drive. Have to come to a dead stop lol.

Does it have the "Automatic Locking" cap? I remember mine you had to be going less the 10mph for 4hi and a complete stop for 4lo. Either way I blew mine apart years ago and swapped in manual hubs. Easy peezy.
 
Does it have the "Automatic Locking" cap? I remember mine you had to be going less the 10mph for 4hi and a complete stop for 4lo. Either way I blew mine apart years ago and swapped in manual hubs. Easy peezy.

Yes it does have that cap. I grind for 4hi unless at a complete stop. Its been on my list to get a spindle nut kit, and throw on a pair on manual locking hubs. I almost ordered a set of WARNS but everyone turned me off to them do to the lack of the conical washers. I cant swing a set of Aisins. I see mild off road conditions and I have a stock IFS setup. I'd hate to constantly have to check on the WARNS though.
 
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You can get whatever hubs you want. I like the Aisins because they're OEM and do not stick out as far. Plus you only have to turn them 90° whereas the warns are like 350° ......really annoying.

Also, conical washers keep the hub centered to the spindle.
 
You can get whatever hubs you want. I like the Aisins because they're OEM and do not stick out as far. Plus you only have to turn them 90° whereas the warns are like 350° ......really annoying.

Also, conical washers keep the hub centered to the spindle.

That is what I used on my 93 that had the ADD system. Really simple and quick fix. You can find used Aisin hubs around pretty reasonable if you are not in a rush.

Paul
 
I run the warn hubs on my 89 and they seem to be working jsut fine. Never gave it much thought though. It is a little annoying having to turn it 180 degrees to get them to engage though.
 
Shouldn't need a press. Just a really big socket. Pretty sure '89's are ADD with drive flanges not so much an automatic locking hub like the earlier '86-87's (?) iirc....

First gens (84-89) do not have ADD, they have either auto or manual hubs, which should not be confused with the wheel hub which contains the bearings and the brake rotor mounts to.
 
This is going to sound ignorant but I am really just a bolt-on part, change his own ball joints and alternator sort of guy.

Ive replaced wheen hub assemblies on newer cars and SUVs before. Normally the assembly has the wheel studs on it, and its all one large unit.

When you hubs need replacing on a 1st gen 4unner....does that mean replacing the manual locking hub unit? I don't get it.

Wouldn't the wheel bearing simply be replaced instead? I have auto locking hubs, and they work. So if someone says "you need new hubs I can hear them humming" don't they mean the wheel bearings??
yes. that would be a bad bearing. finding the correct bearing is more important.

you have 2 on each front wheel, and one for each rear wheel.
 
Anyone have any experience with Rugged Ridge Hubs? I was thinking about grabbing the Asin knock-off Rugged Ridge manual hubs. Only thing is, I cant find any spindle nut conversion kit. Will the Warn or Mile Marker kit work with the Rugged Ridge Hubs?
 
Anyone have any experience with Rugged Ridge Hubs? I was thinking about grabbing the Asin knock-off Rugged Ridge manual hubs. Only thing is, I cant find any spindle nut conversion kit. Will the Warn or Mile Marker kit work with the Rugged Ridge Hubs?

After reading this, I would reccomend just finding some Aisins at a junkyard or on eBay.

These are only $5 more than the fakes.
 
Stock aisin/acso hubs are the strongest out there for Toyotas. I wouldn't bother going with Warn or mile marker.
 

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