I couldn't take the stock radio any more. No MP3 plays, stock look, low sound, low high end volume above 1200 hz. I replaced it with a JVC KW-AVX810 in dash 7inch DVD player. ...and here's how.
First things first you gotta get rid the center console out of the way. This is the top piece that includes ash tray and accessory switches. It snaps out at the arm rest. Use a standard screwdriver and gently pry it up from the top corners where the arm rest is. If you pull firm but gently towards the gear shift, with a little extra tug at when you feel the clamps holding, it will come loose easily. Make sure not to pull to hard because you still gotta get in there and disconnect the cig lighter and any accessory switches.
Watch the locking tabs and connectors for the 12volt plug and accessories.
Now you need to remove the console surround. This is the part that sides out the shifter and center console. You can see that mine is sliver/grey. It appears fragile and delicate but its pretty tough. Pull it loose from the snaps again working from the back arm rest storage towards the dash. Don't be too hard with it. As you get to the dash its a bit harder because of the flip down compartment and dash in the way. This is a good time to start getting the dash loose.
Nothing is coming loose from the dash until you remove the surround for the ignition switch. A small screwdriver does the trick. If you haven't cut your nails in two weeks they can do it too. This piece is keyed at the top so don't mess that area up by digging into it with something very sharp or it may not snap back in place correctly and flush when you're done.
There are two screws at the lower left and lower right of the dash. Get them out of the way.
If you pull down the flip down compartment there is a screw behind it. Remove that screw. Now you should be able to remove that part and the AC control panel. That snaps in too so you just need to gently pull it out and disconnect the plugs on the back.
Pull out the mileage/Temp computer display unit. Get the screws that are now visible out of there and you're ready to start your radio removal.
Now there are two screws holding the radio bracket in. Get them out.
As for the bracket, you are going to need that. I found that I had to grind off the locater pins to get the bracket to sit flush against the body of the new radio. You will likely have to do the same.
I will want to get the Metra kit. It looks simple and plain but without it your install will look like a joke.
I already soldered and heat shrinked the harness earlier. I added the Metra side fillers to the outside of the bracket using three screws.
I reversed the order to install the new one head unit.
Before putting it all away I ran the USB cable and 3.5mm headphone adapter into the glove box.
The "green cable" that connects to the park brake was connected to ground. That is the only thing keeping your JVC from playing in drive without the brake engaged. (Splenda sold separately)
I will post the remaining pics later.
First things first you gotta get rid the center console out of the way. This is the top piece that includes ash tray and accessory switches. It snaps out at the arm rest. Use a standard screwdriver and gently pry it up from the top corners where the arm rest is. If you pull firm but gently towards the gear shift, with a little extra tug at when you feel the clamps holding, it will come loose easily. Make sure not to pull to hard because you still gotta get in there and disconnect the cig lighter and any accessory switches.
Watch the locking tabs and connectors for the 12volt plug and accessories.
Now you need to remove the console surround. This is the part that sides out the shifter and center console. You can see that mine is sliver/grey. It appears fragile and delicate but its pretty tough. Pull it loose from the snaps again working from the back arm rest storage towards the dash. Don't be too hard with it. As you get to the dash its a bit harder because of the flip down compartment and dash in the way. This is a good time to start getting the dash loose.
Nothing is coming loose from the dash until you remove the surround for the ignition switch. A small screwdriver does the trick. If you haven't cut your nails in two weeks they can do it too. This piece is keyed at the top so don't mess that area up by digging into it with something very sharp or it may not snap back in place correctly and flush when you're done.
There are two screws at the lower left and lower right of the dash. Get them out of the way.
If you pull down the flip down compartment there is a screw behind it. Remove that screw. Now you should be able to remove that part and the AC control panel. That snaps in too so you just need to gently pull it out and disconnect the plugs on the back.
Pull out the mileage/Temp computer display unit. Get the screws that are now visible out of there and you're ready to start your radio removal.
Now there are two screws holding the radio bracket in. Get them out.
As for the bracket, you are going to need that. I found that I had to grind off the locater pins to get the bracket to sit flush against the body of the new radio. You will likely have to do the same.
I will want to get the Metra kit. It looks simple and plain but without it your install will look like a joke.
I already soldered and heat shrinked the harness earlier. I added the Metra side fillers to the outside of the bracket using three screws.
I reversed the order to install the new one head unit.
Before putting it all away I ran the USB cable and 3.5mm headphone adapter into the glove box.
The "green cable" that connects to the park brake was connected to ground. That is the only thing keeping your JVC from playing in drive without the brake engaged. (Splenda sold separately)
I will post the remaining pics later.
