New lift - should I replace my LCAs?

[Blute]

So last week I finally got rid of my Xreas/spacer lift and installed a new suspension setup w/ Eibach pro-truck shocks, Wheeler's T1 front coils, and JBA UCAs. I also put a 1/4" topout spacer on the front left to correct for lean. I left the stock rear coils in for now, as I wanted to see how the front settled before selecting a rear coil with the right amount of corresponding lift.

The install went pretty well and the only real issue I had was I found the front alignment bolts on the LCAs were all seized (not that surprising). I couldn't loosen the LCAs to get them to drop down, but I was still able to get the old coilovers out and the new ones installed in the lower shock mounts by prying down on the LCAs with a prybar.

I ended up with a little more front lift than I wanted. I was hoping for around 22" or less (hub to fender), but ended up with about 22.5" L and 22.75" R. Those values are after alignment and about a week of driving.

Luckily the alignment shop was able to nudge the adjusters enough to get it into alignment specs (which was also helped by the new UCAs). I ended up with the following values:

Camber: -0.1° L, -0.4° R
Caster: 3.2° L, 3.1° R
Toe: 0.05° L, 0.04°R

So after all that info, here are my questions:

1) In general, would installing new LCAs and freeing up those alignment bolts and the arms themselves allow the front suspension to fully settle, and thereby lower the front lift a little? I'm wondering if those seized-up bolts/arms are keeping the front from settling in its "natural" state.

2) Or, is it more a function of alignment? If the alignment bolts were freed up and the alignment could be more easily adjusted, would that allow the shop to dial in more caster (and camber) and would that have an effect on the amount of lift in the front? I'm wondering if they could get closer to 4° caster, and hopefully around 0° camber, and that would lower the front a bit?

Looking for any advice from the experts. Just trying to decide whether to replace those LCAs or ride with what I have for awhile longer. I also still need to select and install some rear coils as mentioned previously, and would like to know how the front could potentially settle. Thanks!

 

[Jubsz]

I don't know the relationship between caster/camber curves on these trucks to answer #2. Freeing up the bolts will allow the camber adjustments to be made. I'm not sure about caster adjustment on these.

For #1, I would not expect freed up LCAs to lessen the front lift. I'd actually expect near zero effect or the opposite to be true. As of now, your bushings are applying a force on the LCAs towards the stock height. I don't think that would really have much of an impact fighting against the weight of the truck. The reason that you loosen the LCA and only tighten the bolts when the vehicle is on the ground is to "re-clock" the bushings. Its purpose is not really to make the install easier but to set the bushings neutral position to the ride height of the vehicle. Your bushings "neutral" position is still at stock ride height. That causes undue stress and wear on the bushings and may eventually lead to them ripping. Most people probably leave out re-clocking the bushings and are fine. It is the "right" way to do things though.

 

[Syr4RinNC]

I just went through this - my alignment bolts were completely frozen and so I couldnt get into alignment.

1. Replacing the LCA shouldnt impact your lift or ride height

The question is more what will happen with the cam/ alignment bolts down the road. They likely need to be replaced. If they need to be worked out to get out, your LCA bushings are likely deteriorated and need to be replaced.

The other component of the LCA is the lower ball joint.

So for now there is no reason to replace anything. The LCAs rarely fail, but the bushings and lower ball joints wear out

If your ride is squeaky and theres a concern about the LCA bushings, they may need to be replaced. You'll likely have to replace the LCA bushings if you do need to remove the frozen alighnment/ cam bolts

I needed to replace both the ball joint and had frozen cam bolt, so it was cheaper just to buy a new LCA

 

[y=mx+b]

The JBA and other fixed aftermarket UCAs are usually designed so that the cam bolts are in their factory "0" position when lifted, which makes it easy for alignment techs to do it a regular firestone. For this reason, you're alignment specs are actually pretty good for having no alignment capability. You'd probably be fine to run it like this for a little bit.

When the cam bolts seize into the bushings, it pretty much makes both the bolts and bushings trash. So long term, I'd recommend replacing the LCA and use new OEM alignment hardware. Optionally, you could rebuild the LCAs instead of buying new ones. Short term, you're probably fine as is.

If you want to see some nasty seized cam bolt pics and a taste of what replacing the bushings is like, heres a writeup of my LCA rebuild process: Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

 

[Blute]

Thanks all for the replies. Sounds like consensus is that freeing up the seized alignment bolts likely won't affect the ride height. I think I'll hold off on replacing the bolts and LCAs for now, but will keep it on my radar for the future.

And thanks y=mx+b for your LCA write-up, I've looked at it several times for info, very helpful. I'm leaning towards just getting the 1a arms when I do the replacement, but we'll have to see when it gets closer to that time.

On a side note, I decided to go with Wheeler's T12 coils for the rear, which should complement my front nicely (hopefully).