New member: 4Runner project.

waypoint

Member
Hiya folks. After missing my previous '03 Tundra and '03 Tacoma, I picked up an '07 4Runner Limited as an extra project vehicle. Pics attached showing it and the initial project, I'll update as work continues.

At 163K miles, it had a chronic P0016 bank 1 cam timing error, leaky front caliper, worn-out noisy front swaybar end links. Wouldn't pass NJ inspection and the dealer quoted the original owner $3K just to fix the P0016 code.

1.) P0016 code.
I removed and inspected the little filter tube for the VVTi oil system on the passenger side head, found some sludge but not completely blocked. Cleaned and reinstalled, no effect.

I replaced the VVTi actuator switch on pass side head, no effect.

Finally, I pulled the valve cover and went to town. Removed the intake cam, replaced the $280 VVTi cam actuator as shown in the pics. Also cleaned sludge out of the intake cam oil passages...this may have been the cause of the error code as both VVTi passages were caked solid with sludge. Wasn't putting it back together with the old cam actuator.

I didn't like the looks of the timing chain tensioners for the #1 and #2 chains, so I replaced both and made a huge mistake...used Cloyes aftermarket tensioners. It was Sunday and that was what I could get at the time. Reassembled the valvetrain, verified timing by rotating the crank 2 revolutions and seeing all 3 timing marks in place. Started the engine and things were initially fine, scanner showed no error codes in PENDING status (previously P0016 went into PENDING shortly after startup). Test drive was great, no error codes and no leaks.

After the engine got to operating temp, at idle I'm hearing a rapid clicking noise. Stethoscope finds the source at the front of the passenger side valve cover. Goes away at >1500rpm. Neighbor who works at a Toyota dealer listens to it and says the timing chain is hitting something based on the noise frequency.

So I remove the passenger valve cover again (getting good at it now) and the Cloyes #2 chain tensioner is slightly crooked as shown in the attached pic. Neighbor comes back over and feels the lower chain guide nylon pad, it's got a groove worn into it and danger-close to the #1 chain links...the link pins are bumping it at idle. We loosened, straightened, and re-torqued the #2 tensioner. Spacing between the lower nylon pad and the #1 chain looked the same. Reassembled the engine and re-tested, noise still there at hot idle.

So...I've ordered new Toyota tensioners and will be back into the engine this weekend. More to come.

After this, I'm planning to do the front brakes & swaybar end links (NAPA coated rotors, Adaptive One pads), and then move on to fluids. Power steering flush, trans flush, differentials and transfer case. Fun project thus far!
 

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Im about to replace my tensioners as well. Hope it cures my nasty valve train click :(

I hope yours does, but I'm skeptical it will based on what I've seen thus far. My click is caused by the Cloyes #2 chain tensioner (on the short chain between the intake & exhaust cams) lower nylon pad being bumped by the #1 chain link pins at hot idle. It's either wider than the factory piece, or it's positioned too far forward. I'll be measuring it versus the new Toyota tensioner this weekend when I remove it and will post findings.

This noise is high frequency but low pitch, almost like a diesel engine, and only at hot idle. Soon as I bring the engine to >1500rpm it's gone...likely the higher oil pressure moving one or both tensioners and changing either the position of the #1 chain travel path or the #2 tensioner base pad position. I'll try to make a YouTube video of it before I open the engine.
 
I hope yours does, but I'm skeptical it will based on what I've seen thus far. My click is caused by the Cloyes #2 chain tensioner (on the short chain between the intake & exhaust cams) lower nylon pad being bumped by the #1 chain link pins at hot idle. It's either wider than the factory piece, or it's positioned too far forward. I'll be measuring it versus the new Toyota tensioner this weekend when I remove it and will post findings.

This noise is high frequency but low pitch, almost like a diesel engine, and only at hot idle. Soon as I bring the engine to >1500rpm it's gone...likely the higher oil pressure moving one or both tensioners and changing either the position of the #1 chain travel path or the #2 tensioner base pad position. I'll try to make a YouTube video of it before I open the engine.

I look forward to seeing that video as my clicking disappears when I get the rpms towards 2k as well. To my knowledge my engine hasnt been cracked open so who knows what it is but it drives me insane!
 
That definitely sucks that you have to do that twice but I'm glad you caught it before it did any damage.
 
Update: the new Toyota tensioner is installed, noise is gone. Pics below show the Cloyes aftermarket #2 tensioner side-by-side with the original piece, the lower nylon pad is just a hair wider than Toyota's and the impact marks are visible on the forward edge. Also interesting to note that the aftermarket piece lacks the oil orifice in the nylon pad...clearly not a good design.
 

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Update: I've changed the oil 3x, around 800 mile intervals…got nasty quick running Shell T6 0W-40 diesel truck oil. This change I went with Quaker State synth 5W-30, lots of moly (antiwear) and calcium (detergent) according to PQIA and cheap at Wal Mart.

Below are the combined oil change records from Toyota.com and CarFax, oil changes at same Toyota dealer except where noted:
5K
11K
20K
38K
68K
85K (same Toyota dealer, but record not in CarFax…interestingly this is the visit where the P0016 error was first reported "Customer provided engine replacement quote" back in 2012).
108K at Mr. Good Lube
144K
148K at Mr. Good Lube
*sold at 162K

I realize CarFax may not reflect all oil changes done to the poor truck, so this is worst case scenario. I still occasionally get a P0016, it stays gone for a few hundred miles after clearing. Only occurs when the engine is not yet up to temp, and always while driving in town. The new VVT actuator I installed on the #1 bank intake cam seems to have improved the system's performance, but the chain is stretched. My thinking is to continue running the engine on synthetic oil to clean things up, then replace the timing chain/gears/guides in the Spring.

The #1 chain tensioner is extended quite a bit further than what I see in engine pics, and consistent with what the guy points out in the video below. I'll post a pic of my tensioner this weekend for comparison.

Skip to 38:00 for the #1 tensioner section:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UR50da0sDOc

It's a fun project and has responded well to repairs thus far. Still needs the front CV axles replaced as both have torn inner boots, I have a pair of FJ axles with 14K miles on the way from a salvage yard.

Edit: attached pics of my #1 chain tensioner showing the telltale coloration rings where the chain wore & elongated, and the tensioner extended one ratchet click at a time.
 

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That's surprisingly close to how I approached this troubleshoot...just followed the service manual procedure for P0016, except I didn't replace the ECM. Based on the outcome from cleaning out the VVT oil passages on the intake camshaft and replacing the VVT actuator, I'd say sludge blockage was the primary cause of the immediate error code.

My balancer zero mark is only ~2mm past the 0 line on the timing tab, when the #1 cylinder bank sprocket timing marks are centered on their references. Not quite as bad as his, although he didn't post any information about the #1 chain tensioner piston position. I'll sign up for an account there and see if he'll reply.
 
I wanna pull my passenger valve cover just to take a peek and see if ive got sludge built up. Ive got the noise that matches what he is saying about the vvt pins and am thinking ive got some sludge that needs to be dealt with. Also at the same time I want to drop the little oil pan and inspect the oil pickup and see if thats clogged
 
Passenger side valve cover is the easier of the two, and Fel Pro gaskets are around $12 at my local Advance Auto. Resist the urge to mess with sludge, unless you can get it out of the engine...the FJ forum post you shared tells the story of sludge in the oil pan blocking the oil pump pickup.

I think you'll get more information on the engine's health by pulling the little 4-bolt chain tensioner cover instead. Easy to remove, and with a mirror or your smartphone you can see how far the #1 timing chain tensioner piston is extended...this is a gauge for timing chain stretch.

All pics I've found show the tensioner piston extended approx 1/4" as shown in the pic below. Mine extends nearly 3/4", and I'll get a pic of the factory tensioner showing the sludge/varnish marks it accumulated as the owner ran nasty oil and the chain continued to stretch.
 

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Passenger side valve cover is the easier of the two, and Fel Pro gaskets are around $12 at my local Advance Auto. Resist the urge to mess with sludge, unless you can get it out of the engine...the FJ forum post you shared tells the story of sludge in the oil pan blocking the oil pump pickup.

I think you'll get more information on the engine's health by pulling the little 4-bolt chain tensioner cover instead. Easy to remove, and with a mirror or your smartphone you can see how far the #1 timing chain tensioner piston is extended...this is a gauge for timing chain stretch.

All pics I've found show the tensioner piston extended approx 1/4" as shown in the pic below. Mine extends nearly 3/4", and I'll get a pic of the factory tensioner showing the sludge/varnish marks it accumulated as the owner ran nasty oil and the chain continued to stretch.

Do you reuse the gasket for that inspection cover or does it just use case sealant?
 
Today I got caught up with swapping out the needle bearing in the front diff with the bushing from ECGS. Im gonna pop off that inspection cover tomorrow and see what there is to see. Any luck on getting the OP in the FJ forum to reply?
 
No reply from him as yet. Found a nice set of videos troubleshooting P0016 and diagnosing a stretched chain, as well as replacing the timing components with the oil pan in place. The guy skips over quite a bit of the re-installation process including properly centering the timing cover and getting the oil pump pickup tube o-ring in place without pinching it, however.

Skip to 7:00 for the #1 tensioner piston over-extended:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UR50da0sDOc
 
No reply from him as yet. Found a nice set of videos troubleshooting P0016 and diagnosing a stretched chain, as well as replacing the timing components with the oil pan in place. The guy skips over quite a bit of the re-installation process including properly centering the timing cover and getting the oil pump pickup tube o-ring in place without pinching it, however.

Skip to 7:00 for the #1 tensioner piston over-extended:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UR50da0sDOc

The thing for me though is that I dont actually have a code coming up. Ive just got a loud valve train tick that drives me insane. Like I said earlier, Im gonna pull that inspection cover today and see what I got going on.
 
The thing for me though is that I dont actually have a code coming up. Ive just got a loud valve train tick that drives me insane. Like I said earlier, Im gonna pull that inspection cover today and see what I got going on.

I'd get a mechanic's stethoscope and probe around for the location of the noise...when you get near it, you'll know.
 

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