New Motor Came

DarthRevarder

New member
My new motor finally got here yesterday and I just have a few general questions about some things. First of all, the motor I ordered came pre-assembled, re-man bored .20. It has the timing belt and water pump already installed, all I need to do is basically put my fuel and electrical on.

First question. With the timing belt already installed is there any timing that I need to do before I turn it over? The shop I ordered it from keeps saying it needs to be timed but with the timing belt on it how am I supposed to do that?

Second question. My truck is a 4wd SR5 and the motor came with no oil cooler. I'm not sure why this is, I told them the sub model, but it just has the plug there. I have an oil cooler from my previous engine but I'm not comfortable using it because of how much metal was floating around inside said motor. Finding a stock oil cooler isn't all that easy and the ones I can find aren't cheap. Can I use an aftermarket external one that's made specifically for a 4Runner without any problems?

My final question is how much, and what kind of ATF fluid are you using with just a drain and not a flush? My motor was completely seized so I couldn't turn it over to get the flywheel bolts off so the torque converter came with the motor. I lost a lot of trans fluid so I'm just going to drain the remaining and refill it. The owners manual didn't make much sense so I figured I'd ask.

Any other pointers or suggestions would be appreciated!
 
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Can't offer you any help, sorry. Just want to wish you good luck and and compliment you for taking this on. And ask that, if possible, you take whatever pictures or video you can. A video of a motor swap would make you a YouTube hero!
 
First question. With the timing belt already installed is there any timing that I need to do before I turn it over? The shop I ordered it from keeps saying it needs to be timed but with the timing belt on it how am I supposed to do that?

I haven't had to do much as far as engine assembly yet but our engines do not have a distributor so there isn't any ignition timing you should have to worry about. I would however verify that the mechanical timing is correct. Set the crank to 0* TDC and verify the timing marks on the cam shafts are lined up.

Second question. My truck is a 4wd SR5 and the motor came with no oil cooler. I'm not sure why this is, I told them the sub model, but it just has the plug there. I have an oil cooler from my previous engine but I'm not comfortable using it because of how much metal was floating around inside said motor. Finding a stock oil cooler isn't all that easy and the ones I can find aren't cheap. Can I use an aftermarket external one that's made specifically for a 4Runner without any problems?

Why not clean your oil cooler? Let it soak in some solvent then run some water through it till the water comes out clean. To my knowledge, the oil cooler isn't anything fancy other than passages where oil flows through next to the coolant to cool the oil. If you don't want to do that I would recommend the oem toyota cooler from the stealership.

I can't be too helpful on the auto tranny issue though. Does the dip stick have hashmarks on it? If so then use those as a gauge.
 
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I don't think you should need to do anything to the timing belt if it was already installed properly.

I think you should just rinse out the oil cooler with something that breaks down oil, and don't worry about it. You have an oil filter, so that should catch anything that somehow remains.

Check otu the tutorial and reference thread for info on the tranny flush, but I think it was something like 4 qts on just a drain.
 
I assumed that for timing all that would have to be done is installing it correctly. I can't think of why it would be any different than just changing the timing belt for routine maintenance. I'll check their work but besides them not installing the oil cooler the motor looks great.



I'll try and take some pictures but I tend to get pretty wrapped up in just getting it done. I think I'll just re-use my oil cooler and blow some compressed air through it to make sure no moisture or debris is left inside. As far as tranny fluid I think I'm just going to put 3 or 4 quarts in, run the shifter through all the gears and then check again. Seems like the most logical way to do it.
 
Do you mind saying what kind of engine, from what reseller and how much you paid?

These answers help out other members who are considering replacement engines.
 
Do you mind saying what kind of engine, from what reseller and how much you paid?

These answers help out other members who are considering replacement engines.

^What he said.


Also, if you're going to re-use the oil cooler, definitely run some sort of cleaner through it. I don't think compressed air will do much. Worst case scenario, run a quart or two of new oil through it to get all the metal and bad-engine-juju out of it.

Good luck with this project too! I'll be interested to see how it goes for you, the thought of doing the same has been in the back of my mind for a while now (especially as my miles add up).
 
Thanks for the kind words guys. The motor is from Denny's Auto Machine in Maryland. It was $2500 shipped to my place of work. I'll definitely keep this thread updated as progress begins. I'll be throwing the oil cooler in the parts washer along with some of my intake stuff tonight. I want some of the parts I'm reusing to look as good as the motor does. I'll post a picture when she's fully dressed on the stand and of course back in the truck. Again thanks for your input and kind words.
 
That seems like a fair price for what you got.... and it looks purrrrrrty I here ya on the picture thing, but you know that it going to help out a bunch of people at some point.
good luck! this is a rather exciting project
cheers
 
Definitely a fair price.

As far as these remanned engines go, one thing I've learned is to inspect your old engine VERY CAREFULLY before installing it. They may get your information down correctly, but it doesn't mean the core they rebuilt was exactly.like yours. I've had to pull plugs and install them in other ports etc. because it was all mixed up.

Double check their timing work too... just for your sake. you don't want to have to pull it again even if it's under warranty. Speaking of warranty, make sure they don't require you to use new oil cooler components to keep it valid.

Make sure your torque converter is OK too. It always makes me nervous when it comes off with the engine. There's really nothing else to mess up. pay attention to that spark plug wire routing. sure seems to stump a LOT of people.
 
That Miley Cyrus comment made me laugh haha. Finally going to get it home tonight and start comparing to my old blown up motor so I can see what my run to the parts store will look like. Then off to the parts washer for more fun. I forgot to mention earlier this motor also was sent with all the gaskets I'll need to finish it up. Intake, exhaust manifold, thermostat, thermostat housing, throttle body stuff. Over all probably saved me around $100 or so tonight at NAPA. I'll post more pictures tonight.
 
Motor is home and started getting things prepped to put it back in this weekend. The engine bay was full of oil so I had to clean that and also get some of my parts I'm reusing cleaned up. Here's a few pictures

Another motor shot



Old motor and why this is happening at all





And the truck itself



Set of gaskets that came with the motor from Dennys Auto Machine



Should start actually assembling it tomorrow when my little odd job parts come in.
 
My 2 pennies

Glad to hear that someone else hear is going through with this,i am going to pull the engine this week my self and i have an engine coming from Raptor engines in Oregon.it is always a good idea to double check the mechanical timing prior to install and about your cooler make sure it is clean or just replace it and replace all your hoses no matter how small also include new thermostat.if there is no instruction from the builder regarding break in run a wix oil filter and 30 weight oil for 500 miles then drain it also run water for the meantime to make sure you got no leaks then replace with toyota coolant avoid the 50/50 chit in my opinion and use distilled water in the mix.Post pics during your install and problems you ran into.Goodluck.
 
Glad to hear that someone else hear is going through with this,i am going to pull the engine this week my self and i have an engine coming from Raptor engines in Oregon.it is always a good idea to double check the mechanical timing prior to install and about your cooler make sure it is clean or just replace it and replace all your hoses no matter how small also include new thermostat.if there is no instruction from the builder regarding break in run a wix oil filter and 30 weight oil for 500 miles then drain it also run water for the meantime to make sure you got no leaks then replace with toyota coolant avoid the 50/50 chit in my opinion and use distilled water in the mix.Post pics during your install and problems you ran into.Goodluck.

A new oil cooler is $575 and that is not happening. My truck only had 85k on it when it blew up so I'm not too concerned. It's been washed thoroughly and dried just the same. I checked the timing today and as you can see from the pictures all TDC and crank is at 0. Should be good to go. My motor came pre lubed with break in oil and break in instructions. Good luck with your tear down and install as well and I'll continue to post pictures. A few tools that made pulling the motor much easier were 3 extensions for my 1/2 inch drive and a beefy ass universal for removing the trans bolts. Honestly a breeze after using that set-up.
 
As for the oil cooler. Flush it with some solvent. Blow it out.

Just some reassurance. The oil that flows into the cooler is piped from the oil filter. So it should have stopped all that trash from going into it.


Just to check. Put in some clean solvent or mineral spirits in the cooler, slosh it around and poor it into a coffee filter and inspect for remnants.
 
As for the oil cooler. Flush it with some solvent. Blow it out.

Just some reassurance. The oil that flows into the cooler is piped from the oil filter. So it should have stopped all that trash from going into it.


Just to check. Put in some clean solvent or mineral spirits in the cooler, slosh it around and poor it into a coffee filter and inspect for remnants.

Great idea! I'll be doing this
 

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