New Radiator Setup Needed

Mellow77

New member
Looking for some help on putting together a new radiator setup. I've searched and searched and am really only finding the direct replacement Denso, Ready-Rad and CSF radiator options and general opinions on switching to electric fans.

Problem - Stock setup just won't keep up with the Texas heat during stop & go / city driving and off-roading during the summer months. :redbrick:

Hypothesis - Replacing my existing factory radiator with a metal multi-rail radiator, dual stage electric fan(s) and separating transmission cooling duties with a B&M 70268 Transmission SuperCooler (that I already own) would provide a superior cooling solution for both systems.

Question - has anyone put together a system like this and can provide parts suggestions (with part #'s if available)?

Additional Considerations - I have future plans to upgrade to a supercharger, headers and a few other engine modifications.
 
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Replace radiator with stock KOYO replacement, add a bottle of water wetter, switch to a 170* theromastat instead of the stock 180*.

Bam problem solved.

Putting the trans cooler in series will only help with the trans, but im guessing it could use some cooling help too like mine did..

This above setup is exactly what I have, I average mid 180's for engine and 140-150 for trans.


Read this recent thread about that exact thing.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/118952-engine-temperatures.html
 
Quailty OEM type replacment, check your fan clutch, and external tranny cooler. I live in Phoenix and have two 4runners one with a S/C and have no problems, and I flog the hell out of the S/C charged one and DD it quite a bit and wheel it almost every weekend.
 
KOYO lists the A1998 as the replacement option but that is a single row radiator. The price point of $115 sure is nice but I'm looking for something a little beefier than that. I'm not a fan of plastic and am thinking a 3 row would do nicely. I'm also still interested in pursuing an electric fan setup.

I had actually read the thread you referenced and made note of your suggestion to go with the 170 degree thermostat as it seemed a better option in my opinion. Thanks for the info Ripcord!

Replace radiator with stock KOYO replacement, add a bottle of water wetter, switch to a 170* theromastat instead of the stock 180*.

Bam problem solved.

Putting the trans cooler in series will only help with the trans, but im guessing it could use some cooling help too like mine did..

This above setup is exactly what I have, I average mid 180's for engine and 140-150 for trans.


Read this recent thread about that exact thing.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/118952-engine-temperatures.html
 
Thanks Mark, I definitely will check the fan clutch.

Quailty OEM type replacment, check your fan clutch, and external tranny cooler. I live in Phoenix and have two 4runners one with a S/C and have no problems, and I flog the hell out of the S/C charged one and DD it quite a bit and wheel it almost every weekend.
 
I cannot remember offhand but I do know that a member of YT got a 2 row aluminum radiator built by a company in TX for around $600 I believe. It is offered on their website.

If the jet lags wains and I can remember the company, I'll post again.:cheers:
 
Thanks Caesar, I'd appreciate the company name if you can shake it loose.

I cannot remember offhand but I do know that a member of YT got a 2 row aluminum radiator built by a company in TX for around $600 I believe. It is offered on their website.

If the jet lags wains and I can remember the company, I'll post again.:cheers:
 
KOYO lists the A1998 as the replacement option but that is a single row radiator. The price point of $115 sure is nice but I'm looking for something a little beefier than that. I'm not a fan of plastic and am thinking a 3 row would do nicely. I'm also still interested in pursuing an electric fan setup.

I had actually read the thread you referenced and made note of your suggestion to go with the 170 degree thermostat as it seemed a better option in my opinion. Thanks for the info Ripcord!

You really dont need anything more than the koyo if you have a cooler thermostat. Its more than suffecient. But if you really want to drop 5 bills on a two row then go ahead..
 
You really dont need anything more than the koyo if you have a cooler thermostat. Its more than suffecient. But if you really want to drop 5 bills on a two row then go ahead..

I appreciate the info and am relieved to hear that solution will be sufficient. It's an attractive price point for sure. :thanks:

At this point my curiosity is peaked so I'm going to walk down the path of vetting my hypothesis even if it means I ultimately end up with a Koyo and 170 degree thermostat.

Mellow,

I am more inclined to go with Rip's advice; these are the folks I could not remember earlier:

Ron Davis aluminum radiators for racing, offroad, performance street car, and other custom applications

They are in AZ, not TX, BTW.

Thanks for the info and advice! I'll checkout their offerings.
 
Decided to go ahead and buy a KOYO replacement and it has arrived. Looks good, now just waiting on my SPAL electric fan to get here. It's going in with 170 degree thermostat and my B&M Tranny cooler all at the same time.

We'll see how that does as I will be monitoring the transmission and engine temps. I do have future plans to upgrade to a supercharger...etc so depending on what temps this setup can maintain will determine whether or not I upgrade to a better radiator and water pump come time to get "blown".

I spent some time exploring two row aluminum setups for future options. They can get pricey in a hurray and at this point the KOYO price point, coupled with the owner reviews it's gotten, I think it's an appealing option. I decided money spent on a really good electric fan was ultimately the way to go. I can re-use that setup even if I decide to swap out the radiator down the road.
 
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There are 3-row all aluminum radiators out there for the 4runner, however there only for 90-95.
I wish someone could do a side my side comparison on them to see the difference.
 
a 170* stat wont lower engine temps, it will only lower when the stat opens.

also, 180-190 engine temp is too low. you want it to be 200-205.
 

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