new rear axle housing needed!

[calithirteen]

hey guys! last summer I did the epoxy fix on the rear axle pumpkin shell that had started to leak. Noticed it was still leaking but only slightly but I neglected it and it now it looks like I have to replace my rear diff due to damage. My mechanic told me it looks like the whole axle housing should just be replaced. I live in Long Island, NY so getting a junker rear axle is out of the question. I wanted to upgrade the gears anyway so not too worried about that. I've been searching eBay but I wanted to know if anyone here had any other suggestions for where I could find a good "southern" rear axle for my rusting 2000 toyota 4runner!!!

Also just ended up in the hospital with an ulcer (home now and doing better) so any help with this would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Quadsbc]

Hollanderparts.com

 

[xspsi6]

I can get you one but shipping would be a pain think. Just may be over sized and have to be freight on a pallet.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Just make sure you specify locker or non locker as they are different housings. You can modify a non locker housing but it is somewhat labor intensive.

 

[Cree]

I'm going to ask the question....

What makes him justify replacing the entire housing? You can replace the rear cover alone with a new piece from Barnes 4x4. Everything that attaches to the tubes can be repaired or welded.

I'm just saying, they're not cheap new (1200 from Toyota last I checked), and shipping a used one from outside the salt states will cost some coin too. Or you can repair yours for the cost of the 3rd member and some labor.

 

[Doc2012]

I'm going to ask the question....



What makes him justify replacing the entire housing? You can replace the rear cover alone with a new piece from Barnes 4x4. Everything that attaches to the tubes can be repaired or welded.



I'm just saying, they're not cheap new (1200 from Toyota last I checked), and shipping a used one from outside the salt states will cost some coin too. Or you can repair yours for the cost of the 3rd member and some labor.

What are you talking about?



There is no "rear cover" on our axles. It's all one solid piece. They're not like Heeps, where the diff has to come out of the back. The entire differential comes out of the front of the axle housing.





If he's got a rusted out housing, the entire thing needs to be replaced, unless he wants to cut an patch weld all over the place. Again, because the ENTIRE housing is ONE SOLID PIECE, with the exception of the diff, that comes out the front.



Even if there were "rear covers" for our housings, it would need to be cut and welded in place.



EDIT*****



Ok. If you're talking about this, then Cut and welded in place.



http://www.barnes4wd.com/Toyota-Pick-Up-Heavy-Duty-Differential-Cover_p_228.html

Edit edit*******

That still doesn't fix the bottom portion of his housing if it's leaking as well.





MENTION=91585]calithirteen[/MENTION]:



My brother did this wth his Tacoma housing. Thinking about doing the same with mine, seeing as how it's a Tacoma Housing as well, but IDK yet.





I wouldn't recommend this unless you're confident in your fab/welding skills.....



Rear Axle Shaving - TTORA Forum

 

[Cree]

What are you talking about?



There is no "rear cover" on our axles. It's all one solid piece. They're not like Heeps, where the diff has to come out of the back. The entire differential comes out of the front of the axle housing.





If he's got a rusted out housing, the entire thing needs to be replaced, unless he wants to cut an patch weld all over the place. Again, because the ENTIRE housing is ONE SOLID PIECE, with the exception of the diff, that comes out the front.



Even if there were "rear covers" for our housings, it would need to be cut and welded in place.



EDIT*****



Ok. If you're talking about this, then Cut and welded in place.



Toyota Pick Up Heavy Duty Differential Cover

Edit edit*******

That still doesn't fix the bottom portion of his housing if it's leaking as well.





MENTION=91585]calithirteen[/MENTION]:



My brother did this wth his Tacoma housing. Thinking about doing the same with mine, seeing as how it's a Tacoma Housing as well, but IDK yet.





I wouldn't recommend this unless you're confident in your fab/welding skills.....



Rear Axle Shaving - TTORA Forum

Simma Downna. That's exactly what I was talking about bro, mainly because I just got done doing it.

So back to my question.....

 

[calithirteen]

Simma Downna. That's exactly what I was talking about bro, mainly because I just got done doing it.

So back to my question.....

lmao. You guys are funny! :happy: Anyway I'm not sure why my mechanic believes the whole housing needs to be replaced. I'm going to speak with him tomorrow. He knows about cutting out the old metal and welding the new cover on. My only guess is that make maybe the edge of the housing where the metal has gone bad is deteriorated so bad that welding it could be problematic. I did speak with another mechanic who welds and I plan to bring the truck over to him to have a look at at it. Obliviously the cover plate welded on would be the cheapest fast fix and I guess should just go that route first because the axle situation is not going to be cheap or easy.

One thing the new mechanic mentioned was that he was concerned about the plate leaking if the weld is not done perfectly. Those of you that used the plate, have you had any such issues?

Thanks for all of your help!

 

[Doc2012]

lmao. You guys are funny! :happy: Anyway I'm not sure why my mechanic believes the whole housing needs to be replaced. I'm going to speak with him tomorrow. He knows about cutting out the old metal and welding the new cover on. My only guess is that make maybe the edge of the housing where the metal has gone bad is deteriorated so bad that welding it could be problematic. I did speak with another mechanic who welds and I plan to bring the truck over to him to have a look at at it. Obliviously the cover plate welded on would be the cheapest fast fix and I guess should just go that route first because the axle situation is not going to be cheap or easy.

One thing the new mechanic mentioned was that he was concerned about the plate leaking if the weld is not done perfectly. Those of you that used the plate, have you had any such issues?

Thanks for all of your help!

I'd have to say you're wrong here.


Rust is like cancer.

The only way to get rid of all of it is to cut it all out.

If you go with the "cap", that's just replacing the cap.

The bottom of your housing will need to be cut out as well, and replaced.

You're better off getting an actual housing.

I've got one in my storage unit that has been sitting since I did my swap.

Shipping would be a *****, but if you want it, you're more than welcome to it.

If you've got a long weekend coming up, we can swap it out in a couple of hours.

 

[calithirteen]

I'm not sure where it is rusting but from what I saw it was just the pumpkin shell of the axle that rusted through. My understanding is that toyota used thinner metal here to save weight. I can't imagine they used that in the bottom side of the axle.

However where are you located?

 

[Doc2012]

North Carolina.

Look at the first two pics in the link. I would upload them, but the damn govt computers aren't letting me. The cover is slightly thinner metal, but look at how it's welded to the housing.

If you don't do that right, it's not lined up, and is going to get fill welded, and stuff is going to get inside the housing, possibly destroying gears.

If the guy puts too much heat into it, your housing is warped, and you need a new housing anyway.

Cheap is a good way, but isn't the best way. Too many unknowns.

 

[Cree]

lmao. You guys are funny! :happy: Anyway I'm not sure why my mechanic believes the whole housing needs to be replaced. I'm going to speak with him tomorrow. He knows about cutting out the old metal and welding the new cover on. My only guess is that make maybe the edge of the housing where the metal has gone bad is deteriorated so bad that welding it could be problematic. I did speak with another mechanic who welds and I plan to bring the truck over to him to have a look at at it. Obliviously the cover plate welded on would be the cheapest fast fix and I guess should just go that route first because the axle situation is not going to be cheap or easy.

One thing the new mechanic mentioned was that he was concerned about the plate leaking if the weld is not done perfectly. Those of you that used the plate, have you had any such issues?

Thanks for all of your help!

Absolutely no issues with the new cover leaking. HOWEVER, I removed the axle from the truck, completely stripped it and had it welded inside and out. The bonus there is I had a chance to thoroughly clean everything before it went back together. Get rid of all the shavings and slag before they became an issue. I would HIGHLY advise against doing it on the truck, and if you do, at least pull the axles and 3rd member. Well, I guess you're going to already, so that's moot.

I would be very surprised if you couldn't weld to the housing. It's pretty stout minus the stock rear cover section. At least 1/4 in steel, and I think it may be thicker than that actually. I didn't measure it, so I'm not going to throw numbers out there, but I know it was at least as thick as the Barnes piece, and that is 1/4 in. You're probably just looking at surface scaling, and that can be cleaned and neutralized pretty easily. I could be wrong, it could be swiss cheese and a total loss, but I'm betting more than likely it looks worse than it is and you're dealing with a mechanic that likes to replace things rather than do repairs.

Look, despite what others may think, even though it's a cheap option, there's nothing wrong with it. A capable welder can have it done in under an hour. We had mine cut and done in 45 minutes. I put new seals, hardlines and ABS sensors (don't ask) in while I was there and with fluid and parts I was out I think 300 bucks? Well under the cost of a new housing, and you probably don't need all of that. I bet you can't even ship one to you for under 200.

Doc is right that heat could be a factor. However, if you take it to someone that knows what they're doing, it should be a minimal factor.

Always two ways to skin a cat. Go with what works for you. Personally I don't care for spending money I don't need to spend, but that's just me.

 

[Full_Throttle]

In answer to the OP, go to Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market and do a search for what you want. There are many different options for rear axles, locker/non locker, ABS /no-ABS, 15" or 16" wheels, 2WD vs 4WD, then the gearing. It has been mentioned to me not to trust the site when it comes to stating gear ratios, best to call at that point. I have found complete axles w/locker for as little as $350 in my area.......

 

[calithirteen]

Thanks for the advice everyone. Spoke with one welder who wants to look at the axle first and I'm going to check with 2 other welders to get estimates. It makes sense to me to just get the new plate cover pull the 3rd member and weld it on inside and out then have the new 3rd member installed.

My only question now is to figure out what gear ratio to go to. Can anyone recommend a decent write up about that or give an opinion here? Really appreciate all the help

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Thanks for the advice everyone. Spoke with one welder who wants to look at the axle first and I'm going to check with 2 other welders to get estimates. It makes sense to me to just get the new plate cover pull the 3rd member and weld it on inside and out then have the new 3rd member installed.

My only question now is to figure out what gear ratio to go to. Can anyone recommend a decent write up about that or give an opinion here? Really appreciate all the help

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/110417-98-back-end-ratio-help.html

 

[calithirteen]

Thanks for that write up. I'll definitely check that out first to see what ratio I have. My other concern is that I went up to a larger tire and would like to get some of the lost power back but wanted to know what the downside is if any. Like would I burn more gas or actually save

 

[woodro]

i burned out my elocker motor on my rear diff , i could not find 1 any where and the dealer was $900 . i called junk yards all over the country and nobody would sell me just the motor .
i ended up buying a complete rear diff and taking off the motor just shipping it an letting them keep the rear .
i paid 350 for the complete rear , shipping would have been around 150-200 bucks , so i bet if you looked hard enough you could get a complete elocker rear for around 600 bucks to your door . probably cheaper for non e locker diff .
i also live on long island , in miller place . good luck trying to find any junk yards with parts to these truck around us , I've tried many times .

 

[calithirteen]

i burned out my elocker motor on my rear diff , i could not find 1 any where and the dealer was $900 . i called junk yards all over the country and nobody would sell me just the motor .
i ended up buying a complete rear diff and taking off the motor just shipping it an letting them keep the rear .
i paid 350 for the complete rear , shipping would have been around 150-200 bucks , so i bet if you looked hard enough you could get a complete elocker rear for around 600 bucks to your door . probably cheaper for non e locker diff .
i also live on long island , in miller place . good luck trying to find any junk yards with parts to these truck around us , I've tried many times .

I hear ya on the local junk yards! Which is crazy because I see so many 3rd gen 4runners out here you would think there would be more at the junk yards! Definitely don't need the elocker....it's obviously a cool thing to have but for 4 wheeling on the beach its not necessary. I'm fairly confident that I'll be able to find a welder to weld on the new Barns diff cover. What I need to figure out now is the 3rd member. I'll have to check but I believe i have the 4.10 gear ratio and it sounds like they are damaged.

IF they are damaged do I have to replace the entire unit or since I want to upgrade to 4.56 or 4.88 ratio can I send the unit out to be re-geared? (Again I'm sure this has been discussed to death but I'm pressed for time and I don't have the best search skills on this site!)

 

[Cree]

I hear ya on the local junk yards! Which is crazy because I see so many 3rd gen 4runners out here you would think there would be more at the junk yards! Definitely don't need the elocker....it's obviously a cool thing to have but for 4 wheeling on the beach its not necessary. I'm fairly confident that I'll be able to find a welder to weld on the new Barns diff cover. What I need to figure out now is the 3rd member. I'll have to check but I believe i have the 4.10 gear ratio and it sounds like they are damaged.

IF they are damaged do I have to replace the entire unit or since I want to upgrade to 4.56 or 4.88 ratio can I send the unit out to be re-geared? (Again I'm sure this has been discussed to death but I'm pressed for time and I don't have the best search skills on this site!)

It would all depend on what you find. If it's just the gears, just the gears and a setup kit and you're back in business. If you lost the carrier too, which could be a possibility if your damage is heat related, then there's that. Either way, you'll still be looking at a full setup. East Coast Gear Supply can build you a 3rd and send it to you with a pickup tag for your core, but it's not cheap. If you're just looking at gear damage, I'd probably try to find someone local. Unless you can't have the truck down that long.

 

[calithirteen]

I'll have to check with my mechanic and see what he thinks is bad on the third member. Fortunately I have my sisters car for now so it's not a rush but I do want it ready for summer if it ever stops snowing here!!! Anyone on Long Island you would recommend for rebuilding the third member?