Tips Appreciated: 1998 Passenger Front Axle Replacement

JamesDZ

Junior Member
I have a torn CV boot on my 1998 4runner on the passenger side (driver's side looks ok, no tears). I figure it's time to change the axle, since I don't want to mess with a split boot.

I have done it on my 4Runner YEARS ago, with a more competent friend :) That friend isn't available, so I'm on my own.

Any tips? I know I need the axle assembly of course, a replacement 35 mm axle nut, cotter pins, and perhaps gear oil.

Is there anything else I should replace/upgrade while the axle is off? I know LBJs are good to upgrade, but I don't think I have the tools for it.

Also: any brands besides OEM for the axle itself you might recommend?

Thanks!
 
Register to hide this ad
Ah, good to know about loaner tools - I've done LBJs before and got lucky that I didn't need any special tools, but I'd like to have them on hand. I'll check out the trakmotives - thanks!
 
Keep the OEM axle, just reboot it using OEM boot. You don't even have to drain and refill oil.

Just like you would, remove the spindle out of the way. Loosen the boot retaining clips on both sides on each boot. Pull the axle out with the tri-pod joint from the diff side joint (make it's orientation). After marking the tripod joint to the axle shaft, remove the snap ring and pull the tri pod joint off the axle. Now pull old boots out and install new boots with grease. Attach the boot retaining clips on outer joint (done with it). Now slide the inboard joint smaller clip and then boot, add grease. Install the tri-pod joint in the correct markings, install the c-clip, then slide the larger boot retaining clip. Now slide the tri-pod joint into the housing still mounted to the diff in the correct orientation as marked before. Install the boot and put the boot clip... done!
 
After I posted this, I was reading through the forums I decided to go with the reboot vs. a new axle. Good tip on marking the tripod joint. Seems like a relatively easy job, thanks for the tips!
 
I personally just reboot the oem axles. However, mine are almost all stock height though. For those boots seems to last the longest anyways. With lifted ones, you may burn the boots due to the angle change of the joint. Where others have suggest a good alternative. If your oem ones are still good joints keep them. Lots of times people are looking for those to reboot and you can sale them off it you want too.. :-)
 
If you have no lift and like to play with copious amounts of grease, reboot away!

For anyone with any lift who never wants to worry about a torn boot again, another vote for the TrakMotive EXT/HD axles. They are about $150 each (buy a pair :) )
 
If I recall correctly - I've done this job on four 4Runners and one Tacoma - a pair of flat-nosed circlip pliers, not the pointy style, is invaluable. An example of such is the Lisle 44900. And a Dremel tool cutoff wheel is handy for removing the CV clamps. Finally, I have used flush cutting pliers, instead of CV clamp pliers - to tighten those clamps on reassembly.

And have a fresh roll of paper towels at hand.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,312
Messages
3,554,086
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top