New ride - 2003 4.7 Limited 4x4

delucat2

New member
I just bought a 2003 v-8 limited 4x4 with 164,000 miles. Pucker factor is not really there with regard to the miles, even my Fords (Escort and Explorer) were going strong at 150,000 + miles). Original owner was a “service at the dealer” kind of guy with 2 kids. Everything they suggested, he did. I will pull the service record at Toyota the first time I bring it in, but I suspect I will be looking at a timing belt in 3-4 years (given my yearly mileage). Rotors look great.

My question to the community is… other than doing a complete front to back service to get everything 100% and me familiar with the vehicle - this will include changing all fluids (oil, trans, power steering, transfer case, diffs), belts, brake pads, sparkplugs, filters (air, oil, trans, fuel) lube the driveshafts, cooling hoses, are there any service points I need to make sure I need to pay attention to?

I will also evaluate the front struts and the rear shocks carefully. I tow a 3000 lb. trailer up an over a 4000 ft pass into 100 degree temps to jet ski, and I don’t want to risk a breakdown because of something silly and need to stay safe. My Ford Explorer Sport Trac v-6 was perfectly up to the job and other than being a bit underpowered, never left mw wishing for larger tow vehicle. This is why I went with the 4.7L this time.

Are there any particularly helpful modifications I could do?

The CD player in the head unit does not work. I will be pulling it out to take a look inside.

I have the Chiltons and was a bit concerned that they don’t get into cleaning or adjusting the 4wd Hi - Lo
Actuator or the central diff lock. These seem to be the problem issues on all 4WDs I have ever seen (mostly ford and Jeep) and how I long for a good old NP case with manual shift from a CJ-5. Other than lube on the driveline, which it appears is more disassemble and lube by hand rather than rely on pumping and pumping grease into the zerk fittings to get it right, what is good preventative maintenance to do?

Anyone had the seat re-foamed. 160,000 miles of rear end has taken the ahhhh out of the seat pad. I can’t stand sitting on my tailbone for 7 hours when I go to Phoenix from so Cal.

Is the HVAC blower motor an issue? Just read about it a couple of times doing research.
 
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Can't think of anything off hand. But, as an FYI - you can go to toyota.com/owners and (after signing up) enter the VIN # and get a list of all dealership work done so far. If he's never had the Timing Belt done, that's probably a good idea.

I was going to mention the Zerk fittings on the driveline. Sounds like you want to remove/pack/replace. Never heard of anyone doing it that way on the 4Runners.

The actuator is a sealed piece. Pretty unpleasant to get into. Hopefully you've tried it already. Although rare, I have read reports of them getting locked up due to lack of use.

Have only had mine for ~2 months so far and love it.
 
It is 90 here. Nothing freezes till January.

6k5q.jpg


The calipers on 4Runners are known to get frozen over time. Most often in places where they salt the road during the winter. If it's a California vehicle you're probably in the clear.

BTW, the complete service history should be online at the Toyota Owners website. Just create an account and register your car using the VIN. Anything done by Toyota should be in there.
 
I just bought a 2003 v-8 limited 4x4 with 164,000 miles. Pucker factor is not really there with regard to the miles, even my Fords (Escort and Explorer) were going strong at 150,000 + miles). Original owner was a “service at the dealer” kind of guy with 2 kids. Everything they suggested, he did. I will pull the service record at Toyota the first time I bring it in, but I suspect I will be looking at a timing belt in 3-4 years (given my yearly mileage). Rotors look great.

My question to the community is… other than doing a complete front to back service to get everything 100% and me familiar with the vehicle - this will include changing all fluids (oil, trans, power steering, transfer case, diffs), belts, brake pads, sparkplugs, filters (air, oil, trans, fuel) lube the driveshafts, cooling hoses, are there any service points I need to make sure I need to pay attention to?

I will also evaluate the front struts and the rear shocks carefully. I tow a 3000 lb. trailer up an over a 4000 ft pass into 100 degree temps to jet ski, and I don’t want to risk a breakdown because of something silly and need to stay safe. My Ford Explorer Sport Trac v-6 was perfectly up to the job and other than being a bit underpowered, never left mw wishing for larger tow vehicle. This is why I went with the 4.7L this time.

Are there any particularly helpful modifications I could do?

The CD player in the head unit does not work. I will be pulling it out to take a look inside.

I have the Chiltons and was a bit concerned that they don’t get into cleaning or adjusting the 4wd Hi - Lo
Actuator or the central diff lock. These seem to be the problem issues on all 4WDs I have ever seen (mostly ford and Jeep) and how I long for a good old NP case with manual shift from a CJ-5. Other than lube on the driveline, which it appears is more disassemble and lube by hand rather than rely on pumping and pumping grease into the zerk fittings to get it right, what is good preventative maintenance to do?

Anyone had the seat re-foamed. 160,000 miles of rear end has taken the ahhhh out of the seat pad. I can’t stand sitting on my tailbone for 7 hours when I go to Phoenix from so Cal.

Is the HVAC blower motor an issue? Just read about it a couple of times doing research.


As the new owner of a "New to Me" 4Runner, you are required to take out the cabin filter and post pictures of all the crude that has been collecting over the last 9 years.
 
Excellent! I will see what has accumulated in the "bug catcher" cabin filter.

I will keep and eye and ear out for uneven pad wear re: frozen caliper :)

California car, so rust is not an issue. Man, I feel for the road ralt nation. My 69 mustang looks better underneath than a 3 -4 year old car under salt conditions. Minimal surface rust, don't need a 13 lb. sledge to get things to come appart.

I took a close look under the hood and am amazed. The coolant is pink and fresh (that is Toyota's "new" long life coolant, right?), clean oil in the engine (just changed), clear brake fluid (damn, that resivior is huge!).. only the p/s fluid looks kinda dark, but then again I am used to ford which uses atf.

Timing belt was done at 94,000 miles at dealer. Access to the service records is awesome.

The security key for the lug nuts and the original trailer light pigtail were untouched and new in the "secret" compartment in the glove box.


Very cool truck. Will post pictures.

This guy either polished a **** up really well, or he has been a by the book guy at the dealer and spent $4 - 5,000 servicing it over the last 9 years.
 
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When i pulled the radiator cap off, it fell appart in my hands. New one... $27 from dealer. Ha ha. $12 from Autozone with vent.

Screwing around with locking center diff in the parking lot, I had problems getting it to unlock. A bit of forward and reverse and it sorted itself out. Into and out of Lo is no problem.

Machine is clean under the hood and plastics are holdin gup way better than those on my 2000 Ford Explorer Sport Trac did.

Tire lug key and trailer brake controller pigtain in the "secret" compartment, where they have probably been untouched since new. Seriously! There are regular lugs on the wheels because someone had no idea where the key was. I was hoping for a Walther PPK and a bag of smack, but no such luck.
 

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And I noticed when I took off the oil fill cap.... same dark brown "stained" look to the aluminum in the fill neck. Toyota never figured out the PCV issue. My Honda, Ford escort and Explorer, all with 150,000+ miles were all bright and shiny, not coffee stained like my grandpa's teeth.

I am going to add an additional vent with a small filter so these fumes can get out and not continute to stain; or worse gum-up this great engine.

Funny the California emissions has no way other than no load (can't do a dyno test because of the full time 4WD) to test. Passed with flying colors.
 
Nice looking 4Runner. It does look really well taken care of.

Screwing around with locking center diff in the parking lot, I had problems getting it to unlock. A bit of forward and reverse and it sorted itself out. Into and out of Lo is no problem.

Perfectly normal for you to have to move just a little to get the diff to lock. If you're doing it on pavement to test it just make sure you go straight. Don't be making turns. Sorry if you knew that already - just wanted to make sure you didn't anything up right after buying it.
 
The seat cushion is the same both passenger and driver side. One of these days I plan to swap them since the passenger side rarely gets used.
 
I am aware of the strain put on the drivetrain when everything is locked up in low, and the damage all that torque and do if not on dirt or loose ground. Good info to prevent something unfortunate happenign to my new toy.

My neighbor has 2 ARBs in his tacoma and loves the noise it makes turning circles in the parking lot when locked up. Not too bright, but nothing has broken...yet.

I love how the drivers side frame lifts up when put in LO and the torque from the v-8 hits it. That never happened in my of CJ-5 with the iron duke 2.5.
 

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