Newb timing/water pump questions

[Oh NO!]

Hello all,

I just talked the wife into buying a 2002 sr5 4x4 so i didnt have to buy one for myself. Its got 115k on the clock and I've been reading about this 90k service.

I want to start off by saying that i used the search function. this site is a great wealth of info on these trucks, but i couldnt find the answers to my question, so im asking.

Why does the water pump go out at 60 or 90k?

i can see it maybe needing resealed or have a new gasket put under it, but are you telling me these things wet the bed after 60k?

And, ok fine, you might as well put a new one in there while you're doing the timing belt. but i'm seeing all these timingbelt /water pump kits on ebay and im thinking: how much of this stuff do i really need?

i can understand why a belt might wear out after 90k. but what about all these other things like this idler roller, tensioner roller, and hydrolic tensioner? seems to me that these parts ought to be fine or the truck wouldnt run at all.

obviously putting all this new stuff on cant hurt the truck, but if im just replacing dirty parts with clean ones, id rather spend the money somewhere else.

Ive been a huge fan of these trucks for a long time and i'm excited about having it around.

Thanks in advance for any help on this...

 

[koulee]

Unless you do it yourself, the reasoning is that you are doing the timing belt you might as well do the water pump. Because basically doing the water pump is like doing the timing belt. So why do them separately at almost twice the cost in labor?

 

[notrayray]

Hello all,

I just talked the wife into buying a 2002 sr5 4x4 so i didnt have to buy one for myself. Its got 115k on the clock and I've been reading about this 90k service.

I want to start off by saying that i used the search function. this site is a great wealth of info on these trucks, but i couldnt find the answers to my question, so im asking.

Why does the water pump go out at 60 or 90k?

i can see it maybe needing resealed or have a new gasket put under it, but are you telling me these things wet the bed after 60k?

And, ok fine, you might as well put a new one in there while you're doing the timing belt. but i'm seeing all these timingbelt /water pump kits on ebay and im thinking: how much of this stuff do i really need?

i can understand why a belt might wear out after 90k. but what about all these other things like this idler roller, tensioner roller, and hydrolic tensioner? seems to me that these parts ought to be fine or the truck wouldnt run at all.

obviously putting all this new stuff on cant hurt the truck, but if im just replacing dirty parts with clean ones, id rather spend the money somewhere else.

Ive been a huge fan of these trucks for a long time and i'm excited about having it around.

Thanks in advance for any help on this...

The reason you replace the waterpump is because if it starts leaking, you've ruined your belt, if it stops turning it takes out your belt. The bearings wear then the seal wears, then coolant leaks from the weephole.

Most people don't have the luxury of replacing whatever is in need of replacing when they tear it apart.

The system works as a whole. So you take a slight chance when you don't replace all of the parts in there.

I recommend OEM parts or kits from ebay that are OEM parts, they are better and can be had online for around the same price as aftermarket crap.

When I did my 90,000 mile service I replaced the timing belt, waterpump, cam and crank seal, crank pulley bolt, thermostat. When I ordered in Feb. 09' all this was just over two hundred.
I wagered the pulleys and tensioner would hold out to the 180,000 mile service. In most cases, I'm sure the cam and crank seals probably would have been fine too. Just didn't want to find them leaking when I get in there.
My waterpump was starting to leak, at just over 95,000 miles.

OEM part resources and part numbers can be found in my sigline link for ease of searching.

:cheers:

 

[TheDurk]

I waited until 120K to do my TB. Under normal circumstances, I haven't seen any reports of TB failure between 90-120K. If they do fail, it is usually because of WP leakage/failure. This does happen, but not very often. I'm willing to wager those failures are associated with poor coolant maintenance, and I know mine is better than nominal since Day 1. (Read the monster TB thread at YT, these things go on forever.) So when I did it, I did the full monty except the seals, where I am of the wait until they show signs of trouble school. Now I figure I can wait until 240K, but I'll pull the cover around 210K and have a look at WP and seals. Meanwhile, I have trail spares for everything.

This is just one approach, but it makes sense to me. Just the TB at 90K and then everything at 180K is probably valid, too. Everything at 90K is definitely overkill, in my opinion.

Definitely buy the OEM Aisin, Toyo, Mitsuboshi aftermarket kits--it's the same stuff you will get from the dealer for less $$$.